Leaderboard

I have been a long time lurker over many years, spent a long time fixing personal home machines. I have been working with a guy to bring reproduction boards to revive damaged (usually battery corroded) back to life. So basically, two guys creating reproduction fruit machine mainboards and game cards. Now obviously, these are blank boards and require a donor board, time and effort to build. Most of these boards have easy to solder through hole components which minimal skill level is required. Obviously some have SMD parts such as EPOCH, Astra IO3 CPU Card where more skill will be required. ------------------ Most boards range from £15 to £25, and some discounts can be made for larger amounts. I'm based in the UK but can pretty much ship anywhere but at buyers cost. Feel Free to drop a Comment or DM for any questions ------------------ When a new board is released for sale, BOM documents and Notes will be uploaded here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zteijgZ6kcggR_ZUyvWFackC2KUOpF-0 I do have a Facebook group (same as this thread title) where you can reach out to me to purchase. Tested & Verified Designs: Maygay - EPOCH Maygay - M1B Bell-Fruit - Scorpion 2 Barcrest - MPU4 Ace Coin - SP.ACE In Progress Testing: Bell-Fruit - Scorpion 1 JPM - System 80 CPU (2708 Version) Coming Soonish: Maygay - M2 CPU Card Bell-Fruit - System 85 Maygay - MMM Electrocoin - Universal 8205 Astra - I/O CPU Card Planned: Project Coin - PC92 Project Coin - Procon JPM - System 5 Global - Stealth In other news, we are now able to offer "REEL MCU" IC replacements for ACE Coin - SP.ACE Boards.

Here's the first one up and running for a few days. Ive still got to test it with the extra 2 Eproms and driving an LCD meter. Im sure my routing is all perfect though. As soon as the reels first twitched I was like thats all the processing and serial link sorted... then the memory alarm went off which validated all the audio (which theres alot of!). I was like wahoo! Nailed this one first time also. R.e.l.i.e.f 20260718_162233.mp4

Some pictures of the machine completed

Decided to re-base my Adders after putting it off ages.. It was well fooked, needed doing.. Should last another 40 years now... 😂😎

I had a go at making some replacement backlit bands for Tensation a couple of years ago. They came out pretty good, but it was a lot of time and effort. Sadly, I no longer have access to the printer.

Yesterday I took the Win stepper apart to soak it in vinegar overnight, and today I cleaned it – it was just like slime that came off. I lubricated it where necessary and put it back together. It took a bit of fiddling about and fine-tuning.

So, I’ve made a bit more progress; I didn't have time for the project for a few days. The parts that had been sandblasted have now been painted. In the meantime, I started working on the mechanical score counter; I completely disassembled and rebuilt it. That was certainly necessary, as some parts were already wearing against each other due to stiff movement and a lack of grease. I also installed the coin tubes.

Hi all, I think I mentioned these devices a few weeks back so I thought I'd purchase a few and have a play. If you're not aware these devices can emulate ROMs and come in all the sizes and will do masked ROMs too although I haven't got there yet. Amazing so far and so many things I haven't tried yet. They are about a tenner each but the time and effort they save it's a no brainer. The devices can be flash programmed in seconds so no waiting 20-30 mins to erase ROMs and re-burning when you're testing patches to code. Then plugging them in to test and finding they don't work! (yep we've all been there) Once installed in the ROM socket they can be re-programmed in situ via USB. Here's a pic using an MPU3 card... Also big and smaller brothers. They do devices for larger chips but I don't need them as yet. Another advantage of these is you can save multiple images which can be selected by the jumpers so changing code can be done in seconds. Of course in the case of MPU3 & 4 you can't put them in the case as it's not deep enough but that's fine just for testing purposes. Another advantage is you can put the whole image on one device and patch the CS lines to the empty sockets (not tried this as yet) but it's all explained in the blurb. I needed to use these due to trying to defeat the CHR and CRC check as burning traditional ROMs was taking all day. It can now be done in seconds. I'd like to thank John Parker for his assistance with this and taking the time to explain it. Cheers John you are a squire and a gentleman sir. For the guys out there that like hacking ROMs for changing the gameplay, I think these devices will be a godsend. It does also mention in the blurb you can change bytes on a running system, not tried that either but it's all terrific stuff.

Well..I have been chasing this machine, for the last decade. I missed it, on marketplace in 2015, and it recently turned up again, in Detroit. And even then, the seller has been very hard to get hold of. It's a rebuild of Lucky Strike So, a 400 mile round road trip this morning, to Detroit. The cabinet is in good shape. Things that are missing. The individual coin transfer chute, from the mech to the tubes. No back door. I haven't powered it up, as the power supply probably needs a good looking at, and this is a Rifa cap style PSU??. Anything else I need to know, before powering it up? Can't believe I actually own this, let's hope, I can get it, to work

Delighted to say I bagged this beauty recently! I only had one poor picture to decide in a very short time if I wanted it, good news is a courier has collected it for me and I will probably have a few weeks wait before it arrives! So we can all see together if it was a good buy or not. This was my guiding picture!

I would like to thank you all for your help and suport. My two machines are now good working with the regent files N°2. I would like to present you my new "toy" a slot machine whose name is "Golden luck" but it's not a fruity machine. Do you think that it's possible on the forum ? Here is a picture of the roulette.

Ok, a bit further on, i have stripped the reel deck, soaked, cleaned and re-oiled the bearings (yes, 6 bearings, 40+ year old quality you dont see any more). Put it all back together and now the reels spin as they should. Sorted the payout and that is fine now. But and this is a head scratcher, it plays and pays fine, all lights work when they should, however when you get the nudge feature it starts of well but as soon as you nudge any reel once it will nudge the once and the machine will do a quick reset (a quick blip on pin 40 of the cpu). I thought it might be down to the sense circuitry of which the track runs right by the triacs and maybe a bit of back emf of the coils with them switching in and out quickly, however normal game play was fine (oh and also no sounds). Before i delved further into that i remembered that this machine as well as the nippy nudger rom also came with a golden nudge it rom card. So what the hell, i put that in. Interesting results, now it plays and pays fine, the nudges work (although the panel does not light up so i assume that is different lamp ouputs for golden nudge it) and the sounds work. The gamble feature on golden nudge it which is not on this one does not come into play, if you get a win you get the first tone of the gamble feature and then it collects. I then put my hand round the back to close the back door microswitch and it would not nudge again. Anyway after a fiddle about and a good kick and a wipe and wobble of the rom card it now works with door open or closed so i think my next port of call is to check the rom cartridge connector on the mpu and the edge connectors on the cards. If i did not have this to do and had to rely on christmas TV i would have gone stir crazy by now 🤣. To be continued........

This one had be going for a while. Fault was no sound although on the bench there was sometimes and it was very dependant on humidity and temperature. What normally happens is the battery vapours contaminate the board surface and it becomes conductive. Any trace voltage around pin 2 of the audio output chip will cause the chip to effectively switch off and there will be almost full supply voltage on pin 8 which is the speaker output. It should sit at half voltage (6V ish) but this was more like 11v! After deep cleaning the tracks and components that connect to pin 2 it started behaving but still not quite down to 6v. I then left it for a while to work on something else and when I returned and powered on there was no sound again! The voltage measured on pin 2 was about 0.6v whereas it should be approx 0.02v. So it was leaking again somewhere? Next thing was to remove the sound output chip and the two little yellow caps that are connected to pin 2 and see where the voltage was coming from. Well lo and behold it was still there. There was nothing else connected to pin 2 so a lot of head scratching started. The next thing I noticed was that the track ran underneath the sound synth chip so this had to come out and look what I found underneath!!! The track runs through where it says R28-30 and this stuff was sticky and conductive, could be tobacco film who knows. Anyway a good clean on the board and the chip and no more stray voltage.

Started removing rust from various parts of the Reel today; disassembled the motor... but immediately spotted a problem. It clearly hasn't been looked after; there was hardly any grease inside. There is a worn bronze bearing, and there is significant play in the output shaft (can this be ordered? Otherwise, I'll have one machined). I'm not sure if the output shaft is supposed to be like that, though. Fortunately, the gears are still in good condition.

Then the frames were painted in a matched ral colour

I remember 18 months ago when i bagged a Winsprint for £50(buy it now). It was a Sunday evening and i had arranged to pick it up on the Monday evening. That was one nervous 24 hours. There is nothing like that feeling when you have loaded it in the van and are just driving away.

Yet another board nearly drove me to insanity. Maybe I'm lossing my touch with age, who knows. Usual battery rot symptoms so all the usual suspects whipped out and renewed. A bit of track patching out needed for the alpha and triac driver links but other than that pretty clean. So on power up (with diags) the triacs all test OK then the tester alpha comes up with MPU4 ALPHATEST OK so all looking good. Thinking I'm in for an early day and just waiting for the lamp tests to start it comes up with an alarm and a bit of garbage on the alpha although I can see it's trying to say 'alarm' but no idea what. The RAM solder joints were looking a bit crusty so I thought that better come out, just in case, which was good as it failed on my tester. I've had similar issues before, like the previous fault above, so it's always a good idea to check out IC16 and put it in a socket which then gives you the option to isolate the CS feeds to all the support chips. Isolating IC5 the alarm was still apparent but the alpha then stopped on a readable 6840 error. Of course changing the chip made no difference. Just a little teaser here, I'd checked the 5v previously and it was a bit low at 4.77v but we all know TTL min rating is 4.5v and it boots OK so I thought I'd come back to that later. Big mistake!! Anyway back at the ranch getting nowhere and contemplating taking out all the support chips and putting in sockets which I did. After each replacement no change to the fault so 2 days later I'm losing the will to live. By now I've made sure all the Address and Data lines are intact plus every other line from the cart to the board. I'm thinking there must be a corroded via somewhere that I've missed. Rapidly running out of ideas and it's now day 3. There's only two options left, the first one is to jump in the Thames but maybe option two first. Thought I'd go back to the low voltage supply and see what's going on there. After stripping down the regulator I thought I'd run a test on the LM323 with my bench PSU and lo and behold it stuck solidly at 5v?? Hmm, what am I missing here? Tried a spare regulator chassis and blow me the board booted and ran fine. After all that wasted work but hey ho it works so put away the swimming trunks. So what was going on with the original regulator? Putting it back with the little board again it's measuring 5v off load but if I put a 12R resistor across the output it drops to 4.77v. It was then I noticed something on the radio. I listen to Caroline on 648Khz and putting the resistor on the output more or less blocked out the radio signal! Suspicion then pointed towards the tant cap that decouples the input to the LM323. When a new one was fitted the voltage remained stable under load at 5v. As the wires to the board power socket weren't attached they probably acted like an aerial otherwise I would have noticed this before. I'm sure someone up there doesn't like me.

If it's a solenoid sticking then the plunger and the inner sleeve of the solenoid will need cleaning but no oil needed, Check the small hole in the top of the solenoid is clear and not blocked.. Also check the lift arm which is attached to the reel solenoid plunger via a metal link, It has a brass bush and secured to the shaft with a metal clip, you can remove it and apply a small amount of grease to the shaft then refit the lift arm as it needs to be free and not sticking.... If it's the reel drum sticking then it will probably need a reel strip down. Each reel has a clutch which grips the reel drum to spin or nudge the reels, it also slips to reduce the torque on the reel motor allowing it to turn freely when the reels are held in position. The clutches are made of a leather disc which is normally soaked in oil, I use Neatsfoot oil for leather, They dry out over time and causes the reels to stick or slow to start or not spin at all. I soak clutch washers in a jar with oil for at a good 24 hours, the longer the better to allow the leather to soak up the oil, When you rebuild the reel mech, you do not need to refit the clutch washers dripping in oil but dab off the excess. Also while the reels are stripped apply a thin covering of grease to the main reel drive shaft which will lubricate the reel drum bushes so they spin freely too.

This mornings update..... Cleaned the contacts on the mpu rom cart socket and reflowed the solder connections on the back of the socket, cleaned the rom cartridge edge connections and reseated and cleaned the roms. Now both cartridges work fine (happy days). I think i prefer it with the golden nudge it cart in it as you get a few more sounds, ok the nudge now panel does not flash but thats an easy work around, however i am going to keep it original. Just need to rebuild the cabinet fix hold button 2 and remove and clean the reel solenoids as reel 3 is catching by a few thou. Still so impressed with the build quality and the fact it has bearings on the reels, infact that impressed i have attached a photo🤣. And yes i have addressed the hairline fractures on the reel bearing housing. Roms, cant remember which is p1 or p2 need to read them again and take note. VID_20251227_105457405.mp4 582e5e09.bin aafe44aa.bin

New glass has been completed! Very happy with the finish and comparison. Would highly recommend Mikonos for any graphics.

Bravo!!! Bravo! 😀 RP8 is the culprit. Incomprehensible. I desoldered it and tested it outside the MPU; it's fine. I had tested it before, though. On the MPU, RP8 is allowing 5V to pass through. I'm very happy, very happy to see it working. It's a bit of an 80s nostalgia trip. I'm going to fine-tune the settings and run the test mode. I want to thank the contributors, Midibob, Andrew96, Northstar ( I had forgotten about you, sorry ) and Jimxxx, for their expertise; without which, I wouldn't have achieved this success. 🤝 Truly, hats off to you. Sincere thanks. I hope this thread will help repair other MPU3s. Gentlemen, thank you again.

I went on Saturday and was treated to a warm welcome and free drinks. Can't remember shovelling so many 10p's into the slots before in such a short space of time but the sounds of the machines were fantastic, with the 80's music on in the background it was just like the old days. I got a few jackpots and lost a few gambles too. Glad to have made the trip, even though the trains were terribly delayed. My favourite was the JPM bingo fruit machine, forget its name. I remember some of them being really tight and nothing has changed lol, those being Chances Unlimited, Road Runner, Frog Hop and Fruit Snapper. Adders and Ladders is probably my favourite MPU3 shorter cab machine. Just a shame there were no taller MPU3's like Fortune Numbers or Strike a Light. Was also hoping for some BFM original Cops and Robbers. Maybe they will come one day. Overall a very enjoyable visit and quite happy to waste a few quid indulging in my childhood memories. Hope to visit again in the future.

Well, she lives. Couple of teething problems with the coin mechs, need to get some starters for the fluorescent tubes. Payout is temporarily disconnected. Finally fitted the test switch (many many thanks Nick for your generous donation to this project). It's taken a few weeks, but I love it 20251017_182306.mp4

MDM 1981

Hi everyone, it’s been a while. Time for a new project, tipped off by a neighbor. It was listed on Facebook Marketplace (Netherlands). A Bellfruit Full House; there was only a photo of the front, but you could see the damage to the artwork. Asking price: €20. Naturally, I couldn't pass it up. This machine needs a lot of love to get it looking good and playable again. Fortunately, the machine is complete; the instruction sheet is inside, as are the build year and serial number.

Pinball Heaven stock them on eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371532527747

I’ve had a bit of time again, this time to work on the mechanism control sequence timer. This one was also covered in rust and grime. The gearbox was almost seized up; I could barely turn it by hand, but luckily a bit of penetrating oil did the trick. That could easily have cost me the motor. I’ve also started dismantling the door; I’d already taken it off. So that various parts can be soaked in cleaning vinegar.

Finally got this done! Had a fair bit to do and it took a while to get the small glass that smashed re made as well as the missing button decals, it’s came out really well, I will tell the story with pictures first job the base and structure of the cab

It was time to clean the credit count sequence timer; it was dirty and covered in rust. It was quite a job to get it apart. Fortunately, I’d already replaced the AMP plugs on the switches. After a thorough clean, something wasn’t quite right when I was putting it back together – I kept losing the screws from the switch terminals. It turned out I’d turned the 4-sided rod the wrong way round, which meant the screws didn’t fit. So I took it apart again and paid close attention this time. Some new bulbs (6V 2W) had also arrived, so I replaced them straight away. I also fitted new film capacitors for the RC snubbers. The old ones were already starting to crack and their capacitance was barely there.

So, for the past 2 days, I’ve been busy further derusting the transformer. This was so much work that I decided to take various parts to a good friend who has a sandblasting cabinet. In the meantime, I had also contacted (pb) BF74 (Ron) for a piece of schematic for a Dutch cabinet, if he had one. I received a complete schematic of the Full House; I couldn't be happier. I also ran a test, most problems were some residual oxidation on the relays and some AMP connectors that have not yet been replaced.

So I stripped the reel motor and chiselled out the old grease and re packed it with fresh grease so now the squeal has gone The payouts are mostly correct but at times it will miss a 6p win and give 4p so a 2 symbol payout instead of 3. I found the hold timer easy to spot with the bent over cams so it gives less holds and some actually cut away! but since checking the micro switches it's not done it again?

I selected all new components and prototyped them all running on original Card. Zn404 is engineered out in 3 components. All the replacement transistors selections are modern. There...is...alot of planning and datasheet work not shown in this picture!

So the real VFD came in to the workshop as dead, and it was. These devices are quite pricey and I did warn the owner it might not be repairable. However trusty soldering iron in one hand and meter in the other I dived in casting caution to the wind. It has 3 electrolytic caps, 2 x SMD and one through hole. Both SMD caps were effectively open circuit but all three were changed to 105° types. Once these were done and the device powered up the screen was still blank so I needed to drive it with something. Looking up the spec sheet it showed that the SIN/TO pin, if grounded, would switch to test mode and by jove it did, displaying the whole character set. Sending it back for testing expecting a glowing report proved a bit premature. The device was still dead and the machine would only boot up without the VFD connected?? When it arrived again at the workshop I swear it was poking it's tongue out at me. Anyway not to be outdone it was time for a bit more researching. Next to no info on the web, no diagrams or fault repairs on Youtube. So first step was to find out why it was stopping the board from booting. This VFD connects to the 14 way DIL connector via the little PSU board. The only wire which goes directly from the VFD to the board is the BUSY link. I assume this is used to slow the main board logic when it needs to print lots of text to the screen. When this connection was removed everything burst into life! Checking with a meter showed it to be permanently HIGH. Here's a pic of the board so you can see what I was dealing with... Did the BUSY line go direct to one of the LSI chips because if it did that was goodnight Vienna! Trying to trace tracks on this was no easy task either but the BUSY line did appear on the O/P of IC2. This was a single OR gate and the output was stuck high. Checking the I/P showed a nice waveform but nothing on the O/P. I managed to find some replacements on Ebay at a reasonable price and slipped in a new one and bingo, nice waveform on the O/P and with the BUSY link re-connected everything burst into life. You have to take precautions when reworking these boards due to the proximity of other components and plastic parts. Best thing for this is Kapton tape to shield the bits you don't want melted.

Some fucking scummy dealer. It will all come out in the wash, will be up for sale for £££££ soon once they've paid someone a fortune to fix it for them! 🤣

Let's hope they haven't gone to the bakery

I just can't resist a challenge, it'll be my downfall one day. So, a bit more on the Chico Display PSU board. The original board had got well overheated so the only thing to do was make another one! Here's the before and after... I thought it would be a good idea to raise the power resistor off of the board with some ceramic spacers in case of an overload. All ready to go back.... On the original board the power resistor just fell off as the solder had melted! Also the regulator's joints were all dry!

Thanks for the pictures, will be great for emulation purposes. I can dump the ROMs for you if needs be.

Well, one of the functions that IC24 does is to monitor the lamps for short circuit bulbs and turn off that bulb as a precaution. It does this by monitoring the voltage dropped across the mux voltage feed resistors. This is fed into a little two transistor sensor circuit which then puts a signal on pin 10 of IC24. In this case both the transistors were iffy and the signal on pin 10 was constantly low. This is then fed back to the CPU which told IC12 to send permanent wait states up the CPU's own backside! Both transistors (T68, T69) had black legs and the BC337 (T69) tested leaky. Once swapped out along with the 5.1v zener as a precaution IC12 didn't send any more pulses on pin 7 and you could see the lamps at full brightness along with all the switches now working. To say I was relieved was an understatement.

Thanks guys I’m loving it! Managed to crack one its own mpu looks like I just caught the battery in time! Wet patch under the crusty battery, Otherwise the board is very clean

Well just arrived about an hour ago, and on first look I’m happy! Needs a good clean inside and out, glasses are perfect intervals complete, just the base is missing! Mpu is dead will get a better look tomorrow

Well hello there! It's been a while (by "a while", I mean 13 years, the last WWC was in 2013. Thirteen years!) 🙂 I don't even know if anyone will actually read this (lol), but hey. Let's do it for old times sake, this is an MPU3 machine after all. Grab a chair and a rather cheeky glass of Saint-Emilion! *** I think it's fair to say a lot has changed in all of that time, and not all of it good. |First off, Wizard - the one-man genius behind MFME has been taken from us. I won't pretend I knew him personally; I dare say we had perhaps a dozen online conversations and interactions. His work and legacy speaks for itself, as does the great number of people he has helped and provided hours of entertainment - for free. Much has been said of his passing, from people whom it is vastly more appropriate and fitting to express such thoughts. I will simply say that every time I fire up the emulator for some much needed diversion, which is often, I think of him. RIP sir. *** In terms of this "review", nothing has changed from before: just some hapless, clueless, even older old guy offering up some ill-informed waffle about some ancient old fruit machine that most people will have forgotten about, even if they'd known what it was in the first place (back in 1985). I remind myself: this machine (briefly) appeared in pubs, arcades (and in my own case, a chip shop) back in 1985 or thereabouts, fully 40 years ago. Crickey. Well, we old crusties know all about MPU3 machines, right? Played 'em back in the day, lost our shirts, made a few quid. The memories stayed with us; we all have the layouts and the lucky few even have the actual machines. In many ways, this was the golden age of the 10p AWP (and 2p-ers as well), all a very far cry from now. That we get to play these old classics (and thus they live on) is down to MFME and its author of course, but also to the layout creators - Vecs in this instance (and a very fine layout it is too, which is to be expected from him of course), as well as the play testers, the resource gatherers, the owners of these rare beasts who allow ancient ROMS to be dumped and all the rest. *** Unlike ubiquitous MPU3 machines like Line Up, Adders & Ladders, Hyper Viper, Exchanges Unlimited, Razzle Dazzle etc., this was a rare machine - I only ever saw one in the wild. If there's a "TL;DR" summary (getting down with the kids there 😉), I daresay I'm reminded of those old "naughty but nice" adverts for cream cakes (if you're a certain age, as you probably are if you've got this far, you'll remember stuff like this: There are plenty of others with the likes of Les Dawson, Larry Grayson, Kenneth Williams etc., a real 1970s Carry On fest. Thing is though, I don't know about you guys, but I've always thought cream cakes look and sound like a great idea, but as soon as you start eating them, you kind of regret it? They're a bit much - too rich, rather bland and too much of them. A cream eclair has oodles of piped cream, chocolate and choux pastry, a pretty awesome list of ingredients you'd think, but it's all rather sickly and disappointing, a classic case of being less than the sum of its parts, right? In a similar vein, Naughty but Nice surely has the most appealing, finest ingredients - it's a Barcrest MPU3 machine for starters (a late one at that, bearing many resemblances to the great MPU3 Big Shot, with a bit of MPU3 Big Game thrown in, and even a pinch of MPU4 Stake Up/Multiplay clubber, albeit without the benefit of that machine's more advanced light and sound show, thanks to the more advanced MPU4 hardware). And yet - it's all rather disappointing when you play it. Allow me to elaborate. A Barcrest sussed out very early on in the genre of MPU3 machines (AWP and clubber also) that an exchange path is necessary to "jazz up" small wins, beyond simply a cash gamble ladder. A 20p win on Line Up or Hyper Viper is exciting (even a 10p win in HV's case) because it can be exchanged for 2 nudges, with the promise of much higher prizes and/or an exciting nudge gamble. Of course, many such exchanges/attempts ended in failure, with the player stiffed with 10p, but that's the gamble. Naughty but Nice has no exchanges - and boy, does it miss/need them. Another staple was a feature board of some kind (Line Up, Adders, HV, Autoroute, Razzle, Fortune Numbers etc.). Those few machines that didn't have one, like Circle Skill and Bigshot still had multi-word fill features (Cash, Zapp, Nudges, target board etc.), and Big Shot had a fully implemented nudge exchange - all plenty enough to keep the player entertained. Naughty but Nice does away with most of this as well; there's no feature board and there are only two trails to win stuff from numbers - the rarely given "Naughties" (a rather lame super series along similar lines to Fortune Numbers, although it can credit repeat if its really in the mood, perhaps for £3 or £4 tops) and nudges. A unique twist is that, when playing for super series (Naughties), the win values are all cash (£1.50JP for 10p play), with the lower wins enhanced. However, given that you won't ever have any nudges (by definition), you'll be relying on wins simply dropping in off holds or whatever (or the stingy super series). At least half the time, the nudge feature will give the minimum 2 nudges (and it'll be obvious the machine is wanting/expecting the player to collect, as they'll almost invariably be a lame 2-nudge reel set up with 30p/40p/60p win in range). Any unused nudges off the initial nudge feature (but not subsequent if nudges held over) will mean the player has a double or nothing chance next game. This could've introduced a fair amount of playability (e.g. like Big Shot), but it doesn't really work in practice. You can gamble, say, 2 nudges up to 4 or 6, then manually nudge a 20p win (instead of taking a 40p or 60p best win), leaving 3 or 4 nudges unused for next game. Often, though, the machine will stiff you with a Lose, or even if it gives it, the best win will still be 60p odd. Above all, this machine is tight as a duck's arse - Makes Nudges Unlimited look like JPM Rollercoaster on £6JP lol. Er, and that's it. Either naff super series (which the machine will endlessly number taunt you forever for, unless you're guaranteed it by having a hold and enough numbers on the win line to reach 10), or nudges - probably 2 nudges at that. At least it's a lot more willing to give the nudge feature. In terms of the Double or Nothing gamble, this is very reminiscent of Big Shot. Like that machine, it's progressive; you'll lose 20p wins if gambled if it's in a bad mood, but start pumping in those pound coins and you'll start to get to 40p, then 80p then £1.60 more often. At £1.60, bank 20p and go for the £1.40 double to £3JP. When it's good and ready, it'll go up (and clam right up again, in all likelihood). The machine is too easy to read, too tight, too simplistic. It's not a complete woffer by any means, but it clearly lacks both the depth and charm of many of its MPU3 contempories (not to mention classic JPMs of the era, most notably Reel Crazy). There is one thing that really marks it out from other similar 'Crests, though - Unlimited Nudges allows an autonudge for £3, albeit it doesn't have that wonderful "whirring" sound (I always loved that... <UNLIMITED NUDGES> in the alpha... <BELLS OR B A R S> 😀) It's an impressive looking beast; those two big win tables alternating lamps - there really wasn't anything else like it AWP-wise. Barcrest produced so many good looking machines. This one's a bit of a dumb blonde though, sadly, and you wouldn't take it home to meet your mother. (They didn't last long and there was never a 2p play variant. Presumably, most ended up as rebuilds like Chase the Ace, Win a Gain, Rat Race etc.). WWC JUDGEMENT - SAINT OR SINNER *** PURGATORY 5/10 👼

Hello. Truly a fascinating topic; fabulous, interesting from beginning to end. Thank you.

Hi Guys Here is a brand new 40 odd year old layout from JPM. There is a read me file and a manual in the folder. Thanks to who ever uploaded the ROM on here for this:) The ROM I originally tried from DIF had a £2.10p Jackpot on 10p Play and double symbol on reel 1. Happy Christmas to all! Nudge Double Up Deluxe (JPM).zip

OK, what you have to note here is the 6561 is a 256 byte x4 whereas the others are 1kb x 4 albeit they have the same footprint. You can tell the smaller RAM machines as they have a 74LS03 instead of a 74LS12 for IC24. These are most likey to be MOD 1 and possibly 2, 3 and upwards use the larger RAM. There are others though that have a daughter board with a 6116 chip and this either plugs into the existing RAM sockets or is soldered directly to the board. You can make your own daughter board up with the 6116 chip (or equivalent) as these are easily obtainable and cheap.

Far too early. Come back on 25th!

Well done for sticking with it and getting it going, perhaps you should buy a few more machines now you have bought all the test equipment. 🤣 As previously said above thanks to Bob and Andrew for helping and saving another relic. Well, what to do now, this story is over, the TV is crap, perhaps i should pay some attention to my MPU1, perhaps...........

Had a play with it today and can say that it is worth the price. Took the ics out of Nippy Nudgers MPU1 and it failed the 6810 ram and was happy with both the 6820 pias and the 6800 cpu. I then got carried away testing a pile of old MOS CBM chip pulls i have (6502, 6510 etc). Still happy to have bought the retro chip tester as well, i think they each have their benefits. Think i might go to the pub now before i get too sad and carried away testing things for the hell of it.🤣

I'm so happy because the machine works. I put in place the three eprom of the second machine on the CPU of the first machine and every thing is OK. Now I just have to wait for my friend to copy the latest files on blank 2716 and the two machines will work (I hope so ) So, forget the "Regent 1 files" , they don't work, I don't know why and I think I will never know.

2 Job lots that look like they include some brand new connectors. Looks more like the triac plug than the power one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365966669642?_skw=365966669642&itmmeta=01K9WZGM156T0DQQWYT25CGTX1&hash=item553550374a:g:t9EAAeSwAJVo9TCR&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e8NtF%2B8L2f4Q6XmZZcgnVOjWtYeHvMxfHm0f8pBjp%2FdMq41TO1Q1K3zhOeVcVAPqABFdrqH7HS8A1E4t%2FVwsivDKtYb68G8Emsn6QkOXIL200OLKW1buPVkjVB72MjElsK%2B%2B62qFAwxmTdLSULOgvtGCxuFBHzfdPM9ED6NTg7Le8cmiqHi%2FJq1SmVlCRJUpEsxJTxNtR21zULWcXqiq94QJGNwnmLaQ0fezIXjKRu4egpOB--vBaSf%2Bhjbhdc8Z9RPwxbEiY2Mb8yM3F32PGlgJ1qy8c%2BZr2rpGaJeZrKTw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9bAwp_PZg

Well there's progress... She's not finished, but certainly getting there. PSU recapped and tested. MPU pretty much re-chipped due to not booting and proper rusty legs. Many thanks to Magic aka Peter Falconer for his troubleshooting. 7 of the horrid little ZTX450 transistors replaced. EPROMs acquired. Many thanks to Clo and Superbank! Reels acquired. Many thanks to Phil. Reel symbols printed and laminated. Big round buttons and lamp masks acquired. Many thanks to Dave.