Leaderboard

Well, she lives. Couple of teething problems with the coin mechs, need to get some starters for the fluorescent tubes. Payout is temporarily disconnected. Finally fitted the test switch (many many thanks Nick for your generous donation to this project). It's taken a few weeks, but I love it 20251017_182306.mp4

Cheers. Cabinet is pretty good too. I think that parts were robbed out of it in the 80s and it has stood neglected in a 1st floor store room of an arcade gathering dust since then. The arcade has been taken over by new owners (previously owned by same family for 40 odd years) and they were clearing out old stuff. It still has that arcade smell which I love

Well there's progress... She's not finished, but certainly getting there. PSU recapped and tested. MPU pretty much re-chipped due to not booting and proper rusty legs. Many thanks to Magic aka Peter Falconer for his troubleshooting. 7 of the horrid little ZTX450 transistors replaced. EPROMs acquired. Many thanks to Clo and Superbank! Reels acquired. Many thanks to Phil. Reel symbols printed and laminated. Big round buttons and lamp masks acquired. Many thanks to Dave.

I seem to remember being able to pinch the edges of the round cradle thing inwards for the newer 10p, so they catch and flip.... Or just use cellotape and cardboard.

Here's the meter panel diagram I put together. https://www.fruitemu.co.uk/ib/files/file/1815-mpu3-12v-meter-panel-15300-1/

Here's an mpu3 manual with a bit of info.. Dave. 87372-big-game-wiring-diagrams.zip

You are welcome, its been great watching this thread and seeing your machine come to life.

Thanks Clo. And many thanks for the ROMs. Be a pretty dull machine without them!

Looks fantastic, well done for bringing it back to life.

They were designed to try and combat a high degree of fraud on S1 coin mechs. Any coin the wrong size that did not fit the cradle at the back would drop out the back,As the front reject plate of the mechs were being levered to one side to gain access to the coin switch from the front so,The metal shield over the coin switch was another anti fraud device then upgraded to the black plastic fitting which completely encapsulated the switch wire arm was another addittion.The black plastic fitting will also spit coins out the back but, As they not used in sevice,as it has been said just block that gap at the back of the unit as shown in picture.

I’ve had this too. I actually wedged a coin partly in there to resolve the issue.

they are designed for the old bigger and weightier old 10p and 5p coins, so they pass through the weighted tip mechanism, the trick is to close the cradle on the tip mechanism so it catches the coin and tips, then adjust the gate so it bounces the right way

Well done on saving a classic, looking great

Love it! Truly an absolute classic 👌

Nice work on all aspects. you can’t beat a good restoration project and seeing what looks like a scrapper being brought back to factory condition.

That is coming on a treat! Great transformation 👏👏 and as always the guys on here come good, with their help 👌

Looking great 👍

It’s nice to see old threads still being helpful and added to after over a decade. i was in my 40s then and by the end of next week I will be in my 60s.👨‍🦳👴

Here is my Twilight Zone fully LED converted 😉

Anyone come across anywhere selling this type of T Moulding? I’ve seen it used on Maygay MMM and Bell Fruit Black Box machines(I’m sure I remember coffee tables using it) The project I’m currently working on(will post on here soon)uses this type but it’s too far gone to use. Ideally I’d prefer the original double grooved over a brand new flat chrome or gold but that’s the way I will have to go if it can’t be sourced.

Yes, fair point on saving the circuitry working so hard. As long as you like the look that's all that matters. Tbf I have never seen a pinball machine with LEDs on.

Re: pinball and LEDs. Agree, BUT…. …you can get ‘LED OCD’ devices that really help with this. Plus, the ‘daylight’ white colour temp of some LEDs really helps with the playfield insert colours - they’re the actual colour, not a very warm and dull version! I'm all for retro things looking original, but likewise I’ve spent a fair amount of time choosing the right LEDs for my pinball machines, then making sure they’re not too bright. They save a bit of power and are generally easier on the lamp matrix circuitry, and they last years so don’t need changing! A lot less heat too. pictures don’t really do it justice.

I agree. Same with pinball machines. LEDs look a bit too bright

Myself personally I wouldn’t put led’s in an old classic it just wouldn’t look right the fluorescent tubes give it the warm light look as it should have been ,,

others will also tell you once a 'vinegar treated' board is repaired with a soldering iron, it emits a horrible acidic smell which really isn't good for the repairers eyes or nose or anything really. if they have any sense should stop there and send the board back!, once it's been vinegar washed it never can be removed totally, acid is not good for component legs or the copper pcb. acid loves to eat copper no matter how much its been rinsed, it gets under everything and remains there, how you then test for PH neutral, or mix up a acid solution which will leave the PH neutral is not something it seems anyone does when using vinegar. I have, and never will touch any boards that have been vinegar washed, its easy to detect years later when the board goes wrong again too. its similar to saying....... i clean my cars paintwork with battery acid.