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I had a go at making some replacement backlit bands for Tensation a couple of years ago. They came out pretty good, but it was a lot of time and effort. Sadly, I no longer have access to the printer.

Yesterday I took the Win stepper apart to soak it in vinegar overnight, and today I cleaned it – it was just like slime that came off. I lubricated it where necessary and put it back together. It took a bit of fiddling about and fine-tuning.

Sorted thankyou both of you

Thanks, Sulzerned. Luckily, I was able to buy them from an online pinball shop.

It was time to clean the credit count sequence timer; it was dirty and covered in rust. It was quite a job to get it apart. Fortunately, I’d already replaced the AMP plugs on the switches. After a thorough clean, something wasn’t quite right when I was putting it back together – I kept losing the screws from the switch terminals. It turned out I’d turned the 4-sided rod the wrong way round, which meant the screws didn’t fit. So I took it apart again and paid close attention this time. Some new bulbs (6V 2W) had also arrived, so I replaced them straight away. I also fitted new film capacitors for the RC snubbers. The old ones were already starting to crack and their capacitance was barely there.

Still very usable Mike. If you can get some decent hi res pics of a bottom glass for sag you could go down the perspex route which would be cheaper than glass printing.

Yes, of course, Daveo138 and Sulzerned, it is in the Netherlands. link : GE44 6volt 2watt 10mm bajonetlamp

Great work.again . Glad you managed to get hold of the 6v bulbs too.

Yes, I’d say so too, sulzerned that’s what I’m planning to do as well

I’ve just tested it, and it works; I’m using MFME V20. You’ll need a newer version.

Morning Nick, yes that would be the plan I think! It's finding someone with the machine and the time to be able to help! Fingers crossed someone sees this that can help 🤞🤞

I actually forgot that I have the top glass 😂 it's a bit ropey but okay

Hi just got my first barcrest horizon machine (RAINBOW RICHES) and I have joined the site to gain experience in maintaining my new interest

Newbie ... looking to delve into emulators, all fun (and games). Hello from North Yorkshire ...

i Can't believe this thread is over 16 years old and sort of still going 😁 Anyway as for the project. When i started this in 2010 i was always hoping that others would take part and improve on what i did back then(which they have).Materials depend on backlit and none backlit. The best way is probably to look through the thread and see what different members have had success and failures with.

So, I’ve made a bit more progress; I didn't have time for the project for a few days. The parts that had been sandblasted have now been painted. In the meantime, I started working on the mechanical score counter; I completely disassembled and rebuilt it. That was certainly necessary, as some parts were already wearing against each other due to stiff movement and a lack of grease. I also installed the coin tubes.

The newly made small glass was fitted along with the missing button decals

It could be the motor on the main control timer is sticking, With machine switched on your can turn the end of the main control timer shaft by hand which might free it off OR, It could be the variator timer, specifically the variator's cam switch. First, when machine is in credit, two timer's should start clicking away on the main panel. One is the rotary hold/nudge selector with wires around it's board, the other is the variator timer with a red cam which operates a cam switch as it turns.. When you press the start button, the main control timer starts, the reel motor starts and the reel solenoids lift to allow the reels to spin, normally the main control timer would complete a full revolution without stopping but this would allow the reels to run in a sequence. To stop this happening the cam switch on the variator takes over the power to the main control timer motor and makes it stop and start as the cam on the variator turns. As this action also starts and stops the main control timer motor This 'Varies' the stopping time of the reels to prevent sequencing. Once the reels have all stopped in their 1,2,3 sequence, the control timer takes over from the variator and restores the circuit to it's own motor to finish the timers full revolution. Now if the cam on the variator fails either the switch collapses, any of the wires have become loose or disconnected even if the variator motor fails then there will be no circuit to the main control timer motor and as soon as it starts it freezes in the same position with the result your machine just sits with the reels spinning and won't do anything else. if you get stuck post pictures or better still a video of your machine.

Yep I have a few sets ,, I had a them printed last week

Bingo Bell, I have the original version. 5p play with a dual 10p/5p coin mech and single 5p token mech. all payouts made in 5p tokens. 10p in gives one play and one token change. auto start spins reels three times and any numbers that fall on win line will light up the corresponding number on the top bingo card. after three spins the player has the option of two nudges which can be used on any reel to gain more win lines. Number 46 in the centre line is always lit as a free number. An experimental machine from BF running electro tech 50v with operating boards running on a 24v supply. Edit.. Missed the main feature out where a possible random bonus can occur during any game. As the reels spin, The machine will light the full bingo card and can repeat.

Once everything is apart you should have the unit looking like this in small and lager version shown. NOTE.... An important point to remember is the main timer control cam shaft with it's red and grey cams are all set in degrees of operation which is crucial to the running of the machine. you must ensure that none of them are altered or moved in any direction or the result will be cam switches being operated in the wrong order or not at all. normally these cams are tight fitted and do need some force to move them but still treat with caution. The red and grey cams are set together in degrees around the shaft to make dwells in the cam of which the roller of the cam switch will run in and back out only one time, in turn this will activate the cam switch. A single red cam does exactly the same but usually to operate a switch more than once during the game cycle.

Disconnect the motor from the gearbox by removing the spring clip across the back of the motor. the gearbox is held to the timer side plate by two small screws either side of gearbox but leave for now as it's still connected to the main timer cam shaft. Remove the far end plate away from motor by the three securing nuts on the rod clamps.pic 2 You can now remove the main cam shaft by releasing the hex nut securing it to the gearbox shaft.pic 3 disconnect the motor end plate via three locking nuts and disconnect the gearbox from the side plate by removing the two small screws. the grey cam switch holders can now be slid along and off the three securing rods.

Next, look at the underside of the timer and you will see the clamps that hold the cam switches in position. held by a screw, when the clamp is released the cam switch still wired can be removed from the holder. pic 1. Once all switches are removed there will only be the motor wiring holding the unit to the main loom. As it only has two wires and connectors abut 4 inches along it too can be disconnected from the loom but check wiring match and should look similar to pic 2. As all the switch wiring is in order in the loom it will also keep the switches in order so they can't get mixed up.