Leaderboard

since I needed to repair a lot of these, remaking them was easier... I know others did do the same, but the shipping and tax to import these boards into europe makes them very expensive.

I’ll be paying this a visit ASAP

Hi everyone, I'm repairing a Royal Diamond MPU3. It had battery damage. I've since repaired it and replaced the components. Now I have the following problem: the 1000nf capacitors (around the white plug) are falling apart. I want to replace them, but I'm not sure which ones to use. Please advise. Greeds Wim

It's funny how the legs fall off of those liquorice allsort caps.

Hi Everyone Eden here from sunny Manchester in the UK. I've been playing fruit machines since I can remember. I'm looking to re live my youth and starting using MFME to re play some of the retro slots that I love whilst I'm not able to get to a local arcade to play them. I remember when my dad used to take me to a local working men's club and there was a £1000 jackpot club machine, I can't remember what the machine was called, but everyone used to queue to play this and even had a waitlist so people could not hog the machine all night to play it, this was in the late 1990s. Great memories.

Hey Matty. Thanks for the heads up on Tinkercad. It's brilliant, I love it. Endless possibilities, and so much easier to use than stuff like Photoshop. Cheers

£200 seems alot for 3D printing. Tinker CAD design software is free and really easy to use. If you are 50% PC able you should be able to do a 3D design easy enough (with tutorials) within a week or so. I recommend a go... so many people and companies have printers now its not specialist at all. I'd be surprised if someone wouldn't print your design out for £20 . Also a VAC former is easy to make for small mask sections. We have one at work using a cooker heating element to heat the plastic in a frame, when it's ready the frame flips over (pivot in the center) on to a box with a gauze and the mold sitting on. The box is sealed and connected to a hoover to create the vacuum.

I tested the machine with another board to be certain and you are right Magik. I'm afraid I don't have a logic probe. I did a multimeter diode test which didn't help on the lamp transistors, but across the collector and emitter of T1 to T8 gave a reading of 0.6 in one direction and 1.8 in the other on all except on T3 - gave zero I did the same test on a known working board and all transistors gave the same results - give or take. I replaced this transistor T3 and the 2 lamp transistors that it connects to, T47 and T55 and it now boots, but several of the lamps are very bright and some flicker. The PSU has already been overhauled with new caps Is it now likely to be a faulty diode in a lamp holder that I guess then overloads the circuit and burns out the transistors?