Jump to content

Leaderboard

    [[Template core/front/popular/memberRow is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]] [[Template core/front/popular/memberRow is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]] [[Template core/front/popular/memberRow is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]] [[Template core/front/popular/memberRow is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/28/26 in all areas

  1. Dodgy French switches that is 🀣🀣
    2 points
  2. More to come, if you don't mind... My display was completely malfunctioning. But after cleaning and lubricating all the connectors, it's back to normal. (I used brake cleaner and a very small amount of silicone lubricant.) It's probably also because I properly insulated the PCB's mounting points. This prevents short circuits. As you can see in the photos, I used two layers of heat-shrink tubing. I had already done this on the first MPU, but on this one, I had to double it up. Overall, it works; the hold function and sound are still an issue. Plus a few other minor things here and there. Thanks Have a good weekend. Sorry, I can't seem to reduce the video size. Afficheur qui dΓ©lire.mp4
    2 points
  3. Whoooo - oooo - ooo πŸ‘» Better (absurdly) late than never! Incoming shortly. (Probably not worth the wait lol)
    2 points
  4. For the sound it's worth checking that you're seeing the 15v on the collector of T11, if you haven't already. IC3 only delivers the basic sound bleeps, the main sounds come from IC2. Not sure which one supplies the error sounds? For the Hold button it's possibly one of the associated diodes in the switch matrix unless it's affecting other switches you may not have noticed yet. In that case it could be IC22 or one of the caps C24-28 going short. It's quite easy to fault.
    2 points
  5. Still not here yet! hoping in the next few weeks
    2 points
  6. It depends on what sounds are being generated. This isn't very helpful I know but as you have no sound at all it shouldn't matter. What you could try is to disconnect the green plug then switch on as this will generate an alarm. Then you can check all those outputs from the two chips to see which one (if any) has a waveform on it. If you can't find anything I'll set it up here and let you know for sure which chip sends the alarm tone. Putting two speakers in series is a good idea, just make sure you put them in phase.
    1 point
  7. Sorry Jimxxx; the translation isn't working properly. I don't understand. Also, you told me to remove a wire; I did, but I didn't realize it. There are times when I deserve a slap. Thanks
    1 point
  8. Hello gentlemen. Well, once again, I must apologize profusely. Unbelievable. In the photo, you can see three switches; something should have caught my attention; what? The color of the middle one is black; unlike the others. I took it apart twice; tested it twice: open, closed; closed, open... OK. They are all connected the same way. So, it didn't seem strange to me. Besides, on the schematic, you can clearly see they are open. But even stranger, I didn't change that. So, with the T56 error (see above) and now the switch, I expect more surprises. And I will have some, on the tube matrix, for example, and surely others... Luckily, you're here. To point out my mistakes. Sorry again. HOLD issue fixed. The tube and sound issues remain. Thank you for your help.
    1 point
  9. Welcome Sean, Great machines you've listed there, and I think we would all love to own at least one of those. 2p machines from that era, are very rare, and command a high price. There are a few members on here, that might point you in the right direction, of trying to find a good 80's machine. Well, from Chorley, you have Red Rose, plus Retro Fruits / Reel Fruits in Blackpool. I've only been to retro fruits, and I could spend a week in there, very easily. I was local (Liverpool), but currently living in Celina Ohio. I've got 2 machines over here. a Duff Beer Guide and a Big Brother. I'd like to have some 10 JPM machines such as Impulse, Roller Coaster, Monopoly, but the cost of shipping and now tariffs, is not an option currently. Welcome to the forums, we are a pretty relaxed crowd here. Regards Statto
    1 point
  10. Hello. My studs are made of metal; what a shame. They'll stay that way; they're well insulated now. Yes, the push-button switch isn't stuck; that's the first thing I checked. I'll double-check this whole area before replacing IC4. As Bob said, it's not easy to do inside the cabinet. jjmXXX; it's a normally closed (NC) contact; if I disconnect a wire, it's the opposite. Thank you for following this adventure.
    1 point
  11. Does it still do it if you disconnect a wire from the back of the switch?
    1 point
  12. Those studs are made of plastic (or they should be) so they won't need insulating? The only metal ones are the two fixing the board to the chassis and two holding the ROM cart holder. Before replacing IC4 I would check if any other switches on the same line are working. I would also find out exactly which one it's on (9 or 10) then see what switch it is on the black connector and also the DIL switches. If you can find what they do it will be easy to check that IC4 is OK. You could put the scope on it and see if there's a waveform going in to IC22. With no switches operated there shouldn't be. Are you sure the switch isn't stuck on?
    1 point
  13. https://www.fruit-emu.com/forums/files/file/843-topgear-1280-dx/?fbclid=IwY2xjawPqHSVleHRuA2FlbQIxMABicmlkETBpRnNnRENYRFNEeE5GcXZsc3J0YwZhcHBfaWQQMjIyMDM5MTc4ODIwMDg5MgABHpXGeV-iKxZ8YCMaTM933uYvOIHV8xr726pu7dkHQlwCE1Y_EoKpcShlwqxi_aem_XhDFX2ULw8TSZOxILnCAzA If anyone can help. if you are on FRUIT EMU. i for the life of me cant get on as cant register its calling me spam lol and saying im not welcome very odd as i was offering to pay anually. im not the only one who cant so ever runs it may want to look into it. I need this DX LAYOUT and early v ROMS (basically this link downloaded and emailed if poss to me or is it here on the mecca????? its TOP GEAR and this one seems to be the 3 pound version . i have the real machine but its the 4 pound. i love my machine and wanted to see the differences thanks and regards j sharpe showreels4u@hotmail.com
    1 point
  14. I have used a resistor before and it worked fine but less volume, if he is getting hiss I guess the speaker coil is fine, maybe ohm check the speaker or put a couple of volts across it
    1 point
  15. These speakers are practically impossible to find unless you are lucky enough to find a "new old stock " speaker or a second hand one . Bob isn't there a way to create 30ohms on a speaker with less ohms using resistors ?
    1 point
  16. Wow! Just seen this. What an absolute gem of a machine. Good luck - would be lovely to see the old girl in action.
    1 point
  17. As they say... the end justifies the means.
    1 point
  18. A quick update, i thought i had got rid of this strange reset issue but alas i had not (well i have now). So running on the golden nudge it cart, 9 times out of ten when you got nudges it would work, however with its own nippy nudger cart it rarely would, normal gameplay fine but as soon as you nudged it would reset. Wiring between the two carts slightly different as it uses different lamp outputs for nudge feature and the coin lockout and one of the meters are swapped. Anyway by total accident i realised it was only when the four lamps in the nudge panel were flashing and you nudged it would reset, take the lamps out and it would be fine, now psu is ok all recapped and new regulator, 5.1v very steady but a 0.4v drop on the 15v (15.2v) when lamps flashing. I was only getting 8.6v across the 9.1v zener but that could well be within tolerance. At this point i cheated a little as the only 9.1v zener i have is a stud mount diode so i put an 8.2v zener in (i do recall Barcrest released some notes on MPU3 about changing the zener on low voltage sites, not that mine is low). It works fine now every time. So maybe it is an iffy zener transistor or resistor on the voltage sense circuit (i dont care now it works)
    1 point
  19. Hello experts So, Bob is right. I installed the wrong component: T56. πŸ™„ I was really incompetent. This board has already been repaired, and the previous owner installed the wrong component, BC172. I always check the component and the schematic; and on the schematic, it's a BC172. Hence the mistake. Now it starts; yes; Bingo! πŸ™‚ πŸ˜€ Thank you; thank you again. But, well, there are some problems: The sound; I'm going to replace T11. The display is acting up a bit. One scroll bar is stuck in HOLD mode. And others... I'm going to check the connectors, the soldering, etc. Thank you very much.
    1 point
  20. original double up deluxe
    1 point
  21. Got my mits on these 2708 chips, and back in the shed after too many weeks off. Not linked in the rom DAT by name, but all CRC32 numbers are in. Nudge_Shuffle_13-.zip Can these be put on 2 X 2532 chip and run on sys80? The working CPU card I have don't have enough slots for 5 proms, but I don't know if sys 80 looks in a particular rom slot to get the data, or if I can burn these 5K onto 2532 (4K) chips and it will run OK? If so how to join the files... Would I put 4 K onto the first chip and 1K onto the second? Or just fix the CPU card with 6 sockets perhaps
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...