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  1. Yesterday
  2. Thankyou for these, I shall use them especially the two bars and “20” as mine above were ok but not exact
  3. Here are the reel images hopefully I got the all
  4. Last week
  5. It can also be rot around the resistor networks or the shift registers. There's a really easy dil test in the test menu. Hold the function button on the mpu and push the red test button. Go through the menu until you get the dil test. Once entered turn all the dips off and if it's correct you should see on the alpha- 00000000 00000000 (Each digit symbolises 1 dil switch in order 1-16 Flick them all on and you should get 11111111 11111111. What you see sometimes is a constant flickering between 0-1 or just registering as a 1 (on) when it should be a 0 (off). It's one reason why people hate epoch. A common one is the note acceptor enable dil sticks on and does people's nuts in because there's not a notey fitted.
  6. With all due respect I see this so often. people ask for help, you say battery damage and they as so desperate for it not to be the case, it sometimes gets ignored or pushed right to the bottom of the list of things to try… and it ends up being a damaged board
  7. sorted the hold buttons and the symbols out so no need to get em thanks
  8. Like yourself I have had real headaches with sys80
  9. if you have had recent dip switch problems chances are the place that did the repair didn't remove the switches and components to sort the rot out under them, most places just clean off what they can see, but it spreads under components and causes problems, especially on epoch, epoch boards don't just 'suddenly' repair themselves, it means a underlying problem that will return usually when the weather turns colder and damper and the rot will continue to do damage, usually then permeant damage. its the precursor to problems
  10. rot still travels up inside the pvc cable from the battery, its evil stuff! fly wiring is not the miracle cure everyone thinks it is, at one point on here no one believed me when I first said it does that, but it is well known now so even fly wired batteries still need to be kept a good eye on still!
  11. Thanks for all the advice. The board was repaired by Ark Aid so have no worries it wasn't repaired properly. As Andrew96 mentioned when I looked at the end of the flywire the inner cable was black so guess that was the rot he was talking about.
  12. Well done bob and I can't believe you didn't think you would find the fault !all good things come to those who are patient 😄
  13. Well 3 days on and ... I've found it!!! What a swine this one turned out to be. Normally before fitting new sockets to these boards I thoroughly check the vias to make sure they still have some copper in them. There was one I must have missed which was pin 5 of IC9. When I checked with the meter this morning it didn't have a connection to ground which is the top via. I must admit with my old gits eyesight I thought it said pin 8 which as we all know is the ground pin for the chip, especially as pin 16 is shown as the 5v rail. That one I'd definitely checked. Swimming trunks back in the drawer till next time!!
  14. your problem is likely to be in the yellow area, but rot affects the red area, this board it affected the main cpu area. the tracks are tiny!
  15. if the rot was not removed when the battery was flywired, the rot sits there and still slowly eats away the tracks, as previously mentioned, it gets under the DIP switches and eats away causing more problems in that area, reset suffers too and so does the battery charging circuit. I suspect the rot is still there and now manifesting its self. It is common on epoch I seen it loads of times myself
  16. I THINK you’ve got a ticking time bomb. On and off, to make something work, is not typical. A new battery may get rid of the ram reset error, but I reckon you will have more issues on their way. hopefully not. Can just hope for a miracle and it repairs itself
  17. .....if only I could get this last one working. If I ever want to see a grown man cry all I need to do is look in the mirror.
  18. Nicads go crusty damage, but easier to repair than Nimh which can show less damage but actually turns out to be a lot more due to there vapour gassing! either way batteries do lots of damage if left untracked
  19. Try and keep the leads as long as possible! 🤣 It's a difficult one, they need batteries to keep true percentage but there's always the risk of leakage, although modern NiMH batteries are much better than the dreaded NiCad of old though, much less prone to pissing themselves.
  20. probably the battery vapours have traveled up the cables and reached the board that way. flywiring isn't the miracle cure people think it is, the rot travels inside the pvc cable sleeve back and causes the wire to go brittle and snap off
  21. Hi thanks for the reply. The battery was flywired and board repaired some time ago. I changed the dil setting and reset the machine and it worked. But still came up with a 4.8 memory error. Took the board out and one of the wires on the battery came away from the board so have dropped it off to a company to replace it so fingers crossed.
  22. More great work bob and like mpu3 you must surely have found every fault there is on sys80 by now 😬🙈
  23. Cheers, I think I have the repeat 🔁 in the wrong place , looking at your lit image I can just make out the REPEAT text under the red sevens. And I take it the hidden feature is Win Stopper not Stepper??
  24. Nice work I will get a better image of the buttons this is going away on Friday so will get reels too, I doubt I will get the roms dumped
  25. here's what i've done with the three images given, within four hrs, may come back to the hold buttons and is the text in the correct area's and does the repeat yes/no read like that?
  26. You seem to love a challenge Bob! Sounds quite like you have your work cut out 🧐
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