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MattyL

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MattyL last won the day on November 26

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  1. You came back to a light hearted one year old thread to tell us you are a socialist and you want to bring back BT and British gas LMAO.
  2. Yeah i cant see if its battery leakage or its been sorted and its repair mask on there.
  3. Post a close up picture of the battery mount position on the board. Is there any old Rot or anything getting down that area and to the left?
  4. No probs have a go mate. Really would still check for continuity even if it looks like theres no damage and clean any sh!t off the face of the board back and front. Ha cheers for the tea offer
  5. I have a JPM impact where the game button switch wires route through the coin mech/loom. You have to just go with whats exsisiting
  6. You can see the battery damage on my shelf specimen why there'd be a fault in that area
  7. First pic is where your brown pins go... got to check theres good continuity between each one. Then got to check the big power darlingtion transistors/triacs. Magii have obviously done work in the area to get the payslides working
  8. Ok cool... im not use to mp4 wiring but trust you. I metering around a board i have here and it all makes sense as its under the battery. This board is one ive got cheap but looks like some one has had a go at it. I will show you which traces to check and what components
  9. Are you're saying those lamps go to the triac pins?
  10. Try and meter it through that board and back to the pins on the board. Then you want to test the thransistor for that row or coloumn
  11. Yeah is that not a break out board? Its not driving the lamps for sure. Pretty sure the wires you're following will pop back out and go to the pins on the main board. Obviously all checking with the power off
  12. Yeah, check the fuse holders are clean... if you have some lamps then its not a power fault if there are a few 'rows' out then thats its a different story. Think of it as a battleships grid a row and a coloumn. If you have a load of lamps out its probably more like a few rows or coloumns not working. You check for common wires between each lamp not working and trace the back to the board pin. The next step is to test the big power transistors with the metal heat snycs individually. This is a way to approach it with most techs of a similar age.
  13. Theres a schematic available. If you dont know tech (mpu4 is not my forté either....ive only done 1)... check your voltages out of the psu first... check the fuse holders are not overly glazed. Then start working back on lamp matrix with the schematic. Few other decent mpu4 people on here might help.
  14. I haven't looked at the Error codes but I pretty sure 53 would be a battery error so don't worry about that... I've never seen the clock error either that is strange. My money wouldn't be on the Proms but you can pick up a programmer off Amazon for around £50... there's also one in the Dot matrix board don't forget... you can try cleaning the pins. I'd make sure you have nice voltages out of the PSU and that there's not to much ripple or noise on the 5v line on the board. Then I'd get someone to test the board (other than maggi) might seem ok on the test rig but testing in a machine can tell you more. Also try a few tests in test mode like lamp test... reason I'm saying that is your saying it's freezing on board entry so when the lamping pattern changes it could be drawing too many volts in one of the big lamp power transistors sensing it and in turn causing it to error/stop. That sounds far out but there'll be a few more clues there somewhere that you have to look for. EG does it fault in demo mode doing the same thing? Just need to think outside the box and keep trying to find stuff it's doing. Hope that helps
  15. If you find any for sale ask for a vid of it working. A minor tiny bit of battery damage can stop an EPOCH board... most people won't even spot it. When it comes to EPOCH don't buy anything listed untested or might work... it's usually a bellends tactic to rip you off when they know it won't work 😎
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