Leaderboard

I've used on of these from ebay. Keeps it tidy but can be taken out with board easily if needed. Also has useful disconnection link. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363285717413

I notice that the middle reel seems to go slightly out of alignment right at the end of the first video and when the 2 outer reels were held. It could well be the sensors are telling the truth and the middle reel is tight. They seem to rotate well and not giggle at rest, so leaking drive transistors are unlikely. We have seen these motors get tight in old age.

Its a Louth Coin conversion. They did Golden and silver Nudges too 🙂

Still Autoroute all day long... even more so as I've got one again... 😜😜

That will have been the component insert / rivet /solder pad (or whatever they are technically called 😂) it will have allowed that leg to be secured to the board with solder, but it didn’t connect was just stability.

Thanks for sharing I’m going to order a few of those 👍

Money madness dx by @tommy c also big thanks to @Player for hI res Art O

Normally the track goes to both positives, turn the board over and it should be obvious, but looking at the picture you posted I think I can definitely see a track running to the one I circled.

Is there anyone near Eastbourne who could help Drew out by possibly checking over his board for faults or lend him a board to try in his machine. I’d be happy to help but I’m five hours away. I hope you get it the fault sorted Drew it’s a great machine a classic 👌🏻

I like these simple and very neat 👌🏻

😁

I'd be checking the back of the reel deck board for cracked solder joints, particularly on all the connectors.

I was trying to find your original topic on this Drew but can't for some reason? Anyway its one of those faults that could be the board or the reeldeck (or indeed wiring) - ideally swap the reel deck and eliminate it if you have another MPU3 cant recall if you did?

Regarding the pcb mount boards, I think they look good... my boards get removed alot for testing out repairs so here's how I do it (on the right). Some heat shrink tubing to stop the battery shorting on anything, the battery still needs to breathe so it's not wrapped too tightly or heated to much plus you can just knife a few holes in the tube then a cable tie so you can hang it out of the way. You can't see it but both wire joints have small heat shrink over them too. I stick to vartas on all my boards I like club machines so a RAM clear after slow baking a clubber to jackpot for over a year makes me want to puke up 😭😅. Vartas are great for what they do... 👀🙂

I have sized up a 10p tube Chris but the one I have is not quite long enough, I also have a spare 10p solenoid. I was considering jointing them somehow but desperately wanted to keep the machine as original as I’m able as it’s such a nice example. Yeah I may well end up exactly doing that Tony it’s just more prone to jamming. My other option is simply not use 50p’s at all and the low level sensor will render that paypout out of action anyhow. Just thought I’d see if anyone had ideas, ideally the liner option like on the 10p’s which is genius. I have ordered a couple of bits to sample just now let’s see…. It’s cheap enough.

why stick 3 wires on the mpu 4 and battery 😁 2 is plenty check the back of the board 3 is not needed

On one of my machines there was a simple 2 AA sized battery with rechargeable in. Still have it tbh. Here is a pic when I first discovered it… many ways to do it I guess.

It it's tripping the circuit breaker then it's a transformer fault, not the MPU4. Unplug it and remove it from the machine, make sure no coins have fallen inside it (seen that before!). These are easy enough to get repaired/replaced.

Here's mine .carfield/dransfield defo.they did seem to mess about with the fruit symbols and buttons .