Leaderboard

nothing interesting about it, the white port is usually used to drive a additional lamp board on models which need more lamps, so no way will it accept coins plugged into the WHITE connector! The black plug SHOULD have a stopper in it in the keyway to STOP it being plugged into the WHITE socket, put it back into the black socket and leave it there!

Why have you plugged the black coin mech plug into the white socket on the mpu???? Black plug to black socket!! It’s on the label on top of the mpu what colour plugs go where!! Hope you have not now blown the coin mech or the aux 1 port on the mpu

Everything cleaned sorted and replaced back onto the main control panel now completed...

Ron did all mine too. All pretty much good although some 2019 coins don't like going through. As Andrew says The Royal Mint didn't keep to the original design hence the problems! When I saw Ron a few weeks ago he had the programmer down to a T with acceptance tolerances. Most Defo worth messaging Ron tho👍

Ron is the man he did all mine and all work perfectly Only Top Up is still on Old £1 coins but i can cope with that 😉

make sure the dill swiches are set the same as on your old board

Pic

Found these today and can't see them in the rom dat. don't know how they play as i've used the 170 version. the £10 one has a GAL chip too in the rom cart 777h.zip

Well done Ron, it's nice to see something that's had a lot of care lavished on it. All this electro mech stuff reminds me of when I was an apprentice for the GPO (as it was then) working in Strowger telephone exchanges. Give me relays any day to all this silicon stuff!

Yeah one powers the status LEDs. Apart from that they should be the same

I use this Autosol, it's great for cleaning electro parts.

Only one relay was of concern, The black marks inside the cover are a give away that it has come from a payout relay position. 240vac flashes across the pins when it fires the payslide and causes burning, this one relay had suffered damage to one of the arms and contact so just replaced the relay.

Sorted, cleaned and rebuilt.. Check all the relays next

Stripping the timers down for cleaning was the next job

Oh that's brilliant, now we know it works lol!

Thanks guys for all you help the problem was down to a faulty wiring loom and faulty sensor And the fact you have to have 3 sensors out of the 4 possible ones connected even though I only have room for two lol in my tubes And this there for turns token light off

There are 2 different psus for scorp 2 But I think the fuses are in the same order. I have both types here so can photograph them later for you if you ain't too sure.

Good question Nick, BF did wire to a factory setting but this has been totally destroyed over the years by the greed of operators, Now it's personal taste. The hold timer board consists of a single solid inner ring and a studded outer ring, the motor spindle has an arm with two wiper blades, one wiper runs in permanent contact with the inner ring the other runs across the studs as the motor turns. Wired to the board are normally three wires but not always. looking at the normal hold/nudge selection there is one input wire which goes direct to the centre ring and the two output wires are connected to the studs, usually holds down the right hand side and nudges or super start in this Ten Up application down the left. This is how I have wired Chris machine. The input wire is the grey/brown wire direct to centre ring The brown/black wire is the output for holds, you can see the Red wire linked away from the output to 5 stud connections around the right side and bottom of the board. As the machine is Ten Up and no Nudges, The yellow/red is the output to the Super start and linked away with green wire to 3 studs down the left side. A machine with nudges will be wired down the left just the same. There are no limits to links you can connect right around the board as long as the two main outputs holds and nudges or Super start in this case do not connect together and recommend at least a gap of one empty stud between any of the two output links. the more links wired then the higher % of holds/nudges are offered. as this was the only way to control % payout is why so many operators disconnected the links. If this configuration is not enough then all that is needed to increase the holds is to wire up more links, if too generous then reduce wired links. The standard BF hold/nudge timer works like this, Once the start button is pressed and the main control timer starts to turn a cam switch stops the hold timer motor for a milli-second and transfers the feed from the hold timer motor to the input wire connected to centre ring, as the timer motor has stopped then the wipers will also have stopped. if they stop on a live stud (wired) then a circuit is made across the wipers down to either the hold relay so player gets hold at end of game or down to nudge relay if stops on a wired nudge output stud giving a nudge after reels stop.Stopping on an unwired or open stud then nothing is offered. All of this action is completed in one click of a cam switch. The more studs connected to the output wire, the more the machine will offer holds or nudges. As this action time is so quick is why I advise to keep the studs and wipers clean of dirt and grease to ensure the best connection.

Don't forget that the board is the opposite way around (PSU plug comes out from right hand side) so that sticker is upside down

I'm sure a mod 2 board should be fine with this as the sounds are built in to the game prom,sure they were released with mod 2 mpu 4 anyway when they were new,same with hyper viper and adders and ladders.

It really is amazing the stuff bf74 knows about these antique fruit machines.

will this do

i bought off Polida & they were fake chips that didnt work, i have some coming from another company but until they arrive ( took 2 months so far ) its hard to know Andrew 96 on here has some arriving, his will be tested & working , save yourself a load of grief & buy his !

Versions are 230 and 390 (run on HT6 emulator).

ive looked at the pics of your board and there battery damage all over it you would be better off getting a replacement board

when the board is the machine do you get the red reset led lighting up on the board

That is the way to go but with the 10p mech for the new 10p coins and 50p mech for the new 50p coins as both will adjust to the new coins, the new 5p is too small and light to use in an electro so I would stick with just those two coins.

Just an idea, use the old 5p coin mech, might have to give it a bit of filing so it takes new 10p coins, adjustments too. Then use the old 10p coin mech to take new 50p coins. I'm not sure if you can get these mechs for new 5p coins!? I'm sure you can still buy these mechs new.

The hold/nudge timer is a part that was the centre of attention when it comes to an electro machines % payout, many operators removed the live wire links needed by the unit to give holds and nudges, even super starts (Depending on the game) to the player, by reducing the links drastically cut down the chances of obtaining holds or nudges making the game terrible to play. The condition of the stud board and rotary wipers can also contribute to the lack of holds/nudges too, A build up of dirt and grease insulates these contacts preventing the timer from operating and giving the player the holds/nudges during play. Pictures show the build up of dirt and after cleaning.

scrub the tracks back with a fiber pen then put a bright light on the other side of the board you will see if there is any broken tracks

Swapped this wire round it accepts money but doesn't credit so its not a fusr