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Some pictures of the machine completed

Decided to re-base my Adders after putting it off ages.. It was well fooked, needed doing.. Should last another 40 years now... 😂😎

I remember 18 months ago when i bagged a Winsprint for £50(buy it now). It was a Sunday evening and i had arranged to pick it up on the Monday evening. That was one nervous 24 hours. There is nothing like that feeling when you have loaded it in the van and are just driving away.

Yet another board nearly drove me to insanity. Maybe I'm lossing my touch with age, who knows. Usual battery rot symptoms so all the usual suspects whipped out and renewed. A bit of track patching out needed for the alpha and triac driver links but other than that pretty clean. So on power up (with diags) the triacs all test OK then the tester alpha comes up with MPU4 ALPHATEST OK so all looking good. Thinking I'm in for an early day and just waiting for the lamp tests to start it comes up with an alarm and a bit of garbage on the alpha although I can see it's trying to say 'alarm' but no idea what. The RAM solder joints were looking a bit crusty so I thought that better come out, just in case, which was good as it failed on my tester. I've had similar issues before, like the previous fault above, so it's always a good idea to check out IC16 and put it in a socket which then gives you the option to isolate the CS feeds to all the support chips. Isolating IC5 the alarm was still apparent but the alpha then stopped on a readable 6840 error. Of course changing the chip made no difference. Just a little teaser here, I'd checked the 5v previously and it was a bit low at 4.77v but we all know TTL min rating is 4.5v and it boots OK so I thought I'd come back to that later. Big mistake!! Anyway back at the ranch getting nowhere and contemplating taking out all the support chips and putting in sockets which I did. After each replacement no change to the fault so 2 days later I'm losing the will to live. By now I've made sure all the Address and Data lines are intact plus every other line from the cart to the board. I'm thinking there must be a corroded via somewhere that I've missed. Rapidly running out of ideas and it's now day 3. There's only two options left, the first one is to jump in the Thames but maybe option two first. Thought I'd go back to the low voltage supply and see what's going on there. After stripping down the regulator I thought I'd run a test on the LM323 with my bench PSU and lo and behold it stuck solidly at 5v?? Hmm, what am I missing here? Tried a spare regulator chassis and blow me the board booted and ran fine. After all that wasted work but hey ho it works so put away the swimming trunks. So what was going on with the original regulator? Putting it back with the little board again it's measuring 5v off load but if I put a 12R resistor across the output it drops to 4.77v. It was then I noticed something on the radio. I listen to Caroline on 648Khz and putting the resistor on the output more or less blocked out the radio signal! Suspicion then pointed towards the tant cap that decouples the input to the LM323. When a new one was fitted the voltage remained stable under load at 5v. As the wires to the board power socket weren't attached they probably acted like an aerial otherwise I would have noticed this before. I'm sure someone up there doesn't like me.

Finally got this done! Had a fair bit to do and it took a while to get the small glass that smashed re made as well as the missing button decals, it’s came out really well, I will tell the story with pictures first job the base and structure of the cab

Then the frames were painted in a matched ral colour

Chips and dings to the wood grain cabinet were filled and painted to Match as best I could get

Some fucking scummy dealer. It will all come out in the wash, will be up for sale for £££££ soon once they've paid someone a fortune to fix it for them! 🤣

Let's hope they haven't gone to the bakery

I just can't resist a challenge, it'll be my downfall one day. So, a bit more on the Chico Display PSU board. The original board had got well overheated so the only thing to do was make another one! Here's the before and after... I thought it would be a good idea to raise the power resistor off of the board with some ceramic spacers in case of an overload. All ready to go back.... On the original board the power resistor just fell off as the solder had melted! Also the regulator's joints were all dry!

I think at this stage i would looking to try and get both mpu`s on a test jig to confirm or not wether they are working on all inputs and outputs, as Bob said there is no documention for these add ons and unless you trace every wire out manually you are shooting in the dark somewhat. You could have a faulty mpu that will work in one machine and not in another. Dont give up on it, i know how frustrating it can get.🙂

I love it Ron, what a fantastic job you have done 👏 I need to give mine a bit of love as well, when I get the time! fancy doing another one 😅

The newly made small glass was fitted along with the missing button decals

As sort of expected, they’ve been stood in damp. luckily, super 7’s is the best of the 3 and after a couple of new platforms and castors it’s solid and in need of a huge clean. the clubber, was only ever bought for its Sru parts inside… and to be scrapped. the big banker, well… the cab is very bad and very wobbly… yeah, it can be saved - weighing up weather it’s worth the effort and parts for its value after all time sorting base… These are the issues people never see…. Everybody sees the £156, nobody sees the £200 to get them to me, the work the parts bla bla bla and most importantly the time. 3 members on here have enquired about buying already, and a previous buyer has too… worth it? Probably not… but that’s the gamble A nest in the bottom, and a base that caved in when machine weight was on it.. screws will be countersunk and wood painted… castors washers etc etc. trial fit always first.

Cheers pics to come in the plenty

That makes sense now, I also never noticed the quantity of 3. Fair play mark I wanted to buy them and had a good 10 mins to ponder I hope they are saved and put back out there. i have had a few lucky buys over the years the latest being razzle dazzle for 50 quid! And £120 to get it here. its great there is still stuff out there to be saved

The reason the seller has cancelled the sale is because it's you! The reason he's cancelled people you know is because they are trying to get stuff for you. I have done the same, as don't want anything I'm selling to go to you. It must happen to you a lot 🤣

Worth removing the wires from the coin switch and phsically touching them together, see what happens.

They would, all the bleep means is it's changing state but if the state is wrong... could be way off the mark here but thought I'd chuck it in the mix.

A bit more success today. The last couple of days I've been trying to get a 4x20 LCD to work instead of a VFD for the Chico game. The VFD's are so expensive so having one for a spare is not on but being as LCD's are under a fiver it made sense to try and use that. The good old Arduino was used as the interface between the board and the LCD My coding skills for the Arduino are somewhat basic so my old mate Duckduckgo AI came to my rescue. It still took a long time of trying various offerings of code before I found one that would actually work. The thing with AI you have to be so specific on what you want it to do but once I gave it all the right bits of info it came up trumps. Not exactly 100% but good enough to know it's working. https://youtube.com/shorts/7uQOyLWrSpU

I'm always amazed by these old techs, not a transistor in sight! Thanks chaps.

Here is the Star Nudge machine

very familiar! I made one up for someone to help them that had one missing, it was temporary to prove the machine worked, it did and nothing more was ever heard about it! this was my veroboard version lol April 2013, temporary was permeant lol (another thing i never got any money for doing)

No other mpu4 machines Nick! I will try another hopper disc, I'm guessing I should see 24v at the hopper permanently and it's switched on via the relay? If so will check on that too. Thanks Ronnie

Hi Ron, so the way you describe the fault as a pound jammed in the opto would also be a faulty hopper opto. It could be registering the Jam as is its simply never seeing the infra red LED. When the £1 passes it breaks the infra Red LED 'beam'. If the LED is never there its always stuck like a Jam. As I say if any of the plugs ever go on wrong in the hopper the opto LED will frazzle.

https://ebay.us/m/NvtCkI too far from me

The whole cab was cleaned inside and out and any bits not right replaced such as tube level sensor rubber bands etc

1984

These seem to run OK in MFME. Hope they help RHRT14.zip

I remembered an old thread about this, found it was 2019! Might be of some help: https://www.fruitemu.co.uk/ib/topic/21442-bfm-cops-n-robbers/#comment-328340

Here... this plug isn't polarised. I seem to remember if its ever been on backwards the opto is going to be not opting any more... Have you tried another hopper? Sometimes they are full of fluff and old grease seizes them up. Can you manually rotate it? The errors could be legit

You loved that little paragraph in that manual didn’t you …🍋

It's to do with the rise of "unscrupulous individuals" at the time! 😉

Fair enough I stand corrected..

Pin 5 (IC23) is at ground anyway. Pin 4 comes off of IC24 pin 6. The diagram is wrong here as it shows pin 3. So being as it's used as a timer it should change state after a few seconds, I think low?

Below is the function chart for the 138 which might give you more of a clue as to what the inputs / outputs are doing and their function. Below is some information on the hopper, something i would try if i had the machine in front of me (probably out of desperation is disconnect the supply to the hopper (pin 1 only 24v) and see if it trys to boot any further. It may or may not but worth a try for how long it takes. I have just done a board here with very mild battery damage, just a clean up. Put it back in the machine and all ok apart from the seven segs were all missing one segment and the last three were not working at all. Back out removed and tested associated ics (all ok ). Put it back in to probe it and bugger me worked and has continued to do so. Thats what i hate. Still seems like it is some contamination and or leaky component causing it.

Sorry to hear this,, the sys80 looked a rare one,, I have all the parts and could of helped you along the way ,

Can’t see what error you have, but it’s known for the hopper driver boards to burn out. just like with solenoids, and battery leaks the payout constantly fires/spins. I would say concentrate on switch issue first as may be related to that, and needs to be fixed regardless

I think you are right on both counts. I have just had a look on one of mine and although it has not got a hopper it has got the extended game card and that square chip near the aux 3 connector on the game card is a 68681 DUART which makes sense, so power from pl10 and information from aux3 on the game card. So that is a dead end as none of the tracks that directly go to the hopper are anywhere near the battery area. As Bob says a screwed up switch matrix can make them do funny things and something else i would look at which realy can do strange things is the RAM, although it looks quite clean in the photo it is in the battery area.

As a complete guess (but logical) and i may be completely wrong but heres my two peneth worth. Since you have mentioned that about the hopper is the alarm maybe Unexpected Pay Out.🤔

Power, Power, Power. We have all done it and will no doubt continue to do so, start off and get side tracked, cant see the the wood for the trees scenario. Well done Bob, another interesting read. Didnt realise Caroline was still going, just had a look on their home page and the solar power meter for the Orford Transmitter made me chuckle.

Two pins on route plug for mars mech need to be linked to accept 10ps (two end ones)

Thanks for the imput guys Bob I will check those switches first today thanks Graham, it's a multi mech so electronic, but the token slot is S10 and credits as it should, thanks Nick, No I never removed the loom from big shot but did compare the pin voltages to razzle they were the same and fuse was intact, thanks

Just a thought ronnie but you did say you changed the mech cable? Did you try that cable in another machine? Also those cables do have a fuse in some cases and needs to be working and not blown obviously so assumed you checked it .

Just guessing but are are the micro switch connectors on the correct tabs ie the no and nc haven't got switched?

Yeah thats right ronnie .quite a heavy weight cab and well made . This carfield has a lot of bespoke parts particular to carfield/dranfield machines. Also one oddity is the use of barcrest mpu1 machine fruit symbols instead of the uusual style of fruits carfield usually used . Not sure why or how they got around to being allowed to use them 🤷🤷🤷

Like the look of that nick, reminds me of the old jpm electro was it red arrow?

I'd like to see a pic of the internals anyway as I do find these electro machines fascinating. Let's hope the fella comes up with the goods.🤞

Hello, few days ago I became an owner of 5-liner called "2000 coins Jackpot". To find its way to Poland (where I live) machine certainly lived through a lot. I really hope I can find some help here, as unfortunately for me I am more of mechanical and electrical guy and I am still not convinced about those fancy electronics and processors - although I know the basics of digital circuitry. Best regards, Piotr