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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/24/25 in all areas

  1. In many ways, I did. I still don't consider myself back full time, but I've sort of been nudged back by seeing what the likes of John Parker et al are doing. If I can lend a pair of hands or a set of eyeballs than great. A certain person's video series has provoked my interest in the old code, too.
    3 points
  2. Seeing as I can't change the account name to agemame to match DIF, I thought I'd reintroduce myself. I've mainly tried to emulate the video techs and the most novel stuff, but as I look through I realise how much of this could still disappear, so I'm trying to get back into the resource hunt.
    2 points
  3. Great to see you back no one truly leaves.
    1 point
  4. I know there's been discussions over this, and Chris certainly worked it out before his passing, but is there anything that would help with the PCB parts identification or similar? Everything I've seen indicates ACE filed the part numbers off, so I'm flying blind trying to get MAME's emulation of the same working. My goal is to try to get the video stuff working better, but having been out for so long, I don't know what's been going on and where. Would just hate to lose that knowledge to time.
    1 point
  5. I recall the thread you speak of and unfortunately it ran into a dead end I did find this of super sidewinder that has some pics of the boards maybe that could be a clue?
    1 point
  6. Hello. Do you remember Droopy's line ? You know what, I'm happy.... The machine is good working, all buttons are now active 😂😂😂. I searched for a long time, I could see roughly where the problems came from but my knowledge of electronics was too weak to understand. So I did many tests. Do you remember the drawing about the 7 buttons, the contacts for stop 1, 2 and 3 and collect risk are between P1- 29, P1-25, P1-32 P1- 16 and P1-1 and for start, gamble, take a lot between P1-32, P1-29, P1-25 and P1-2. P1-1 was good working but not P1-2. So I tried to reverse P1-1 and P1-2, and made many other tests and ultimatly, I removed IC25 (CD4538) and the seven buttons started towork fine. Now I can even test the machine with the switches B8 or B2, even the coils.... I ordered new CD4538 and I hope the machine continue to work well with a new IC25.
    1 point
  7. Here is the parts list of the MPU. MPU unit INTERPLAY ISS.B C1 1000 ”F 25V C2 4700 ”F 25V C3 10 ”F 40V C4 47 ”F 10V C5 10 ”F 40V C6 4,7 ”F 40V C7 C27 1nF C8 et C10 à C26 100 nF C9 220 ”F 10V R1 et R11 330 Ohms R2, R10 et R14 1 KOms R3, R4, R6, R9 et R13 10 Koms R5 R7 et R12 100 Koms R8 220 Ohms RU1 à RU4 groupement de résistances 8x1,5 Kohms sans point commun. (type MPD1603) RU5 à RU8 groupement de résistances 8x1,5 Kohms avec point commun. (type Bourns) RU16 groupement de résistances 8X10 Kohms avec point commun. (type Bourns) RU9 à RU15 groupement de résistances 8X220 Ohms sans point commun. (type MPD 1603) T1 à T59 ZTX450 (BC 337 en équivalent) Régulateur de tension LM340T D1 à D4 1N4148 IC1 à IC4 74LS251N IC5 74LS139N IC6, IC7 74LS138N IC8 MK3882 N-4 Z80 IC10, IC11 74LS244N IC13, IC14, IC15 EPROM 2716 IC16, IC17, IC18 TMM314APL-1 IC19 DM7404N IC20 74LS74N IC21 LM386N IC22 CD4098BE IC23 à IC29 74LS259PC FS1 et FS2 fusibles lents 2A B1 pont de diodes BY164 Haut
    1 point
  8. funny you should say that. oddly enough I got a Winsprint(none runner from Sheffield)off eBay last year for £50 buy it now(I said to the my other half that it felt like going back 15 - 20 years). cabinet was mint too and as it was an original Frog IT(with the 20p tube) it’s now been returned to its original state. I take your point though, this was definitely a lucky one off plus I had to check twice as I couldn’t believe the price along with I not being snapped up. getting that feeling when you are driving away from the collection site with a classic in the back of the van). I haven’t had that feeling in over a decade.
    1 point
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