Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/24/18 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    So for ages I have been thinking about making some kind of universal test rig, but it was cutting out all the holes for the bulbs which put me off a bit, and of course the space that all takes up in a box! makes it quite big! Having the scorpion 4 rig and pressing it into use recently made me think, the LED arrays for the lamp test seem very good! no burning out of lamps etc, nice and compact! and the added advantage if one transistor on the board under test has gone short there is no difference in brightness on the led array where as with bulbs you very much risk the whole 33v or so across a 12v bulb and the blackening and blowing of the bulb! Not sure how long this is going to take, or if anyone is interested in this at all!, but here goes the start of the project... so the search started, I hit on these modules 8 x 8 64 leds in each! they arrived today! each are 60mm x 60mm so a good size! 4 of them makes the array I want to build so 120mm square and looks like this! 256 led's in a 16 x 16 matrix! perfect! (seems a good few boards are 16 x 16 lamp matrix) work started on the lamp load board, this will provide the lamp circuit on the board under test with a nice normal load so the sensing circuit on the board under test works as normal, and the drive for the led display, so far my circuit has bee traced out in diptrace with the hopes to make the pcb for this, it is still under heavy construction at the moment! more to come if anyone is interested!
  2. 2 points
    Meter on pin 5 and the other probe on pin 15
  3. 2 points
    As all electro machines have many motors, timers, switches, relays and solenoids, from the start of the game until finish they make nothing else but noise. Some manufacturers built their game having the variator run from switch on rather than game start so you will here that constant clicking noise as long as the machine is switched on. The noise only increases as the game is played with the many components running to give the player a game on each press of the start button. this is a sign that all is well and every click of a switch and noise of a motor running means that they are doing what they were meant to do, As Brigham said you get used to every sound and eventually you will know if something is not right but more usual because the machine relies on all the components to run together it just won't work and in most cases probably won't work again until the fault is found and rectified. Not only does the game running makes noise but then once a win is payed out the noise is ramped up considerably. Bell Fruit especially and a couple of other manufacturers fitted payslides that operated on mains 240vac so when one of those pays out it makes quite a racket then add the great sound of many coins dropping into the pay cup you know you are playing an electro machine. To add with Fruit 58s statement, these machines were designed for commercial work only and sited in pubs and clubs back in that era, the noise was much reduced that is until a payout when everyone could hear if a player just had a good win. In a home surround then they become a noise box so those that like peace and quiet then I don't think an electro is the type of machine to collect. These old machines were designed and built for a very short working life and really should not still be around but some have escaped the land fill and so lucky to be here with more and some quite rare examples still surfacing today. Not everyone's cuppa I agree but many with me like these old machines and pleased to find a few not only still around but collected and loved by so many.
  4. 2 points
    I've never come across a quiet electromechanical machine! You can always hear them 'thinking', it's one of the things I like about them. As you grow more familiar with them (and with machinery in general) you will start to know which sounds are 'right', and which are caused by faults. The sound you describe is probably dry bushes on the variator. A drop of 3-in-one on the motor rear bronze bush often fixes it.
  5. 2 points
    Coming in the new year at some point1. is cop the lot (bas) 5p/£5 or switchable to 2p 2. hot shot 10p /£4(barcrest)3. thank your luck bars (crystal) 30p/£15.cop the lot reels seem to go out of sync quite a lot so i will need to try to sort that out.
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    Here it is folks, I hope you like it (Sorry it took so long) If there's any issues post them on this thread and I'll sort them out in the next few days. Once any mistakes are fixed I'll upload it to the other sites mentioned in the notes. Play in MFME v6.1 or higher. Works best on a nice big monitor Many thanks to - SteveP for his help with the starter layout and whatnot Road Runner for the ROMs Wizard for his continued hard work on MFME. These days are truly something to behold and I cannot thank him enough Cheers, Steve Step & Skip 1.0.zip
  8. 1 point
    good evening ron hello and welcome
  9. 1 point
    Bye the way,love that big breakfast machine.Ive had 2 in the past.Great game and even better audio.I could play it for ages,being a fan of the traditional english breakfast helps.Forgot to mention the awsome arrwork.Bellfruit hit nail on the head with that one.
  10. 1 point
    Not sure on that.Im thinking some audio was created for machine and maybe some taken from the program on tv.It will cost more than its worth currently to restore but i have had this before and regretted selling it,so whatever im saving it,and its in a sorry state
  11. 1 point
    I do like electromechanical fruit machines because they look awesome and also there hassle free of motherboards and the worry of boards getting damaged
  12. 1 point
    Found it thanks. Have ordered a new one. Let’s see if that’s the problem. Thanks
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    The disk that spins in the hopper, what colour is it? Orange one is for the old 10p (still in circulation) blue is for the mix of new and old. At the exit you have a spring loaded finger (called hopper release finger). These can get worn and springs the coin back into the hopper rather than sending it out the exit. Empty the hopper out and have no more than £1 worth of 10ps and see if you can see what it’s doing.
  15. 1 point
    replaced with tuppeny bonanza mps2 roms tested and working tuppenny bonanza mps2.rar
  16. 1 point
    If its the yellow label linear unit it is probably the trim pots as mentioned by Louie
  17. 1 point
    thanks for trying mate. I do appreciate it and im sure someone will have it
  18. 1 point
    This sounds like capacitors and or maybe bad connectors.as it warms up they expand and contact gone.The 5 volt logic supply to board has to be good,or slightest interruption and it resets or if connectors are really shagged it may not reset,check all plugs that go to psu for burn and wear,also chech for dry solder joints on psu,
  19. 1 point
    Not really but just keep an eye on things. I have seen one or two bad ones over the last 20 or so years.
  20. 1 point
    they both do damage! one does the board in, and the other flywired works the rot up the cables until it reaches the board!
  21. 1 point
    Seems like someone has bought a boat load of none runners cheap they want fixing....
  22. 1 point
    oh yes of course! just making use of some time! fault was TR104 short on the lamp data side causing this trouble!
  23. 1 point
    Keep on sharing Chris, you have got some cracking machines in that collection. Continue the good work!
  24. 1 point
    hi tony your parts are on the way to you let us know if they work
  25. 1 point
    well with this bad weather I decided to look at the impact CPU cards This one was a bit blue around it so decided to strip all the components off in the affected area it does look a bit bad!!! scraped the rot off with a fiber pencil. surprisingly there was only about 6 tracks broken, but a good few eaten at the edges of the traces! so patched up every trace that was remotely eaten! Kynar wire was soldered over the traces, this took several hours to complete! (with a rest from it in the middle as you have to take a rest!!) it now looks like this! its now having the solder resist applied!