Leaderboard

A quick update, i thought i had got rid of this strange reset issue but alas i had not (well i have now). So running on the golden nudge it cart, 9 times out of ten when you got nudges it would work, however with its own nippy nudger cart it rarely would, normal gameplay fine but as soon as you nudged it would reset. Wiring between the two carts slightly different as it uses different lamp outputs for nudge feature and the coin lockout and one of the meters are swapped. Anyway by total accident i realised it was only when the four lamps in the nudge panel were flashing and you nudged it would reset, take the lamps out and it would be fine, now psu is ok all recapped and new regulator, 5.1v very steady but a 0.4v drop on the 15v (15.2v) when lamps flashing. I was only getting 8.6v across the 9.1v zener but that could well be within tolerance. At this point i cheated a little as the only 9.1v zener i have is a stud mount diode so i put an 8.2v zener in (i do recall Barcrest released some notes on MPU3 about changing the zener on low voltage sites, not that mine is low). It works fine now every time. So maybe it is an iffy zener transistor or resistor on the voltage sense circuit (i dont care now it works)

Hello experts So, Bob is right. I installed the wrong component: T56. 🙄 I was really incompetent. This board has already been repaired, and the previous owner installed the wrong component, BC172. I always check the component and the schematic; and on the schematic, it's a BC172. Hence the mistake. Now it starts; yes; Bingo! 🙂 😀 Thank you; thank you again. But, well, there are some problems: The sound; I'm going to replace T11. The display is acting up a bit. One scroll bar is stuck in HOLD mode. And others... I'm going to check the connectors, the soldering, etc. Thank you very much.

Hi folks, Ive got some rare game artwork id like to print out-we've also got a graphics designer at work that will help me out tidying up the artwork... does anyone know anything about the printing processes or what companies do it-especially reel bands? Ive seen many people look into it over the years but not many people see it through- which is mad because of how many machines and reels have been produced over the years... is it niche or what?

Ive emailed him

yes that looks fine, 47 ohms 3w resistor will be fine with a 16 ohm speaker 👍 as long as it is close or near enough i would say it's fin. good work!

Hello! Fantastic!! It's good practice for you and a real boost for me. I understand everything. (I think...) I've got my calculator out again. Ohm's law. Thanks! Soon, I'll replace the original 27-ohm resistor with a 47-ohm 4W one. That will bring the resistance down to 63 ohms. It'll be cleaner, too. Please don't hold it against me. I'm slow to react, and sometimes the translation isn't straightforward. But we'll get there, with the explanations from Bob, JimXXX, Andrew... Thanks!

We’ve all said this before but ‘untested’ or ‘not working but may just need a fuse’ are always total bollocks. Both = fucked.

Hello everyone. I would like to present you this electroméchanical machine and ask you for help. Here are sone pics of the machine and of the machine card. Maybe somebody knows this machine ?

Hello. I'm continuing the ddismantling and cleaning of the machine. A lot of dried grease to remove. I found this coin inside the machine, instead of a washer.

I have got one of these, im still trying to suss out all the features, but its a nice game to play.. im amazed at how you make these emulators i may challenge you to making one for my jive money coin pusher. this is a pic of viva Las Vegas. so you can see the layout.

Good evening, gentlemen. I have an update. I had two remaining problems: 1. The lamps/lights 2. The sound. 1 - The first problem is solved. In the video, you can see that the X2 isn't lit when it should be. However, the following is lit, just above it: OR COLLECT 1/2 AND GAMBLE. Well, I admit; I searched a lot before realizing that the group of two lamps/lights was reversed. Probably during a previous cleaning. 2 - I received a faulty speaker; I'm waiting for a new one. That's all for now. Have a good evening. VID_20260212_165641.mp4

There is another card Inside the cabinet. "This is the property of Phonographic equipment CO ltd" https://irp.cdn-website.com/d96e2807/files/uploaded/4._The__Phonographic_Equipment_Company_Ltd_Part_Three.pdf

I have blocked him, I still got my money minus return label, buyer got a working board but instead of being happy decided to get his money back! I believe in Karma

Matty's work is top class, and worth waiting for.

That stinks, eBay are too quick to rule in favour of buyers and your experience is a good example of why sellers are put off from using eBay.. It is possible to report bad buyers, and to block them for bidding or buying your item.

Good evening. Thank you for the link about the speaker. I've read everything. I've also done a lot of reading on this topic of speaker impedance and resistor configuration. There are pros and cons, some agree, some disagree... in short...full of diverse and varied opinions. I haven't decided yet. For information, I forgot to mention it, the potentiometer is 50 ohms. It's almost over. Merci. Have a good evening.

Dodgy French switches that is 🤣🤣

More to come, if you don't mind... My display was completely malfunctioning. But after cleaning and lubricating all the connectors, it's back to normal. (I used brake cleaner and a very small amount of silicone lubricant.) It's probably also because I properly insulated the PCB's mounting points. This prevents short circuits. As you can see in the photos, I used two layers of heat-shrink tubing. I had already done this on the first MPU, but on this one, I had to double it up. Overall, it works; the hold function and sound are still an issue. Plus a few other minor things here and there. Thanks Have a good weekend. Sorry, I can't seem to reduce the video size. Afficheur qui délire.mp4

Whoooo - oooo - ooo 👻 Better (absurdly) late than never! Incoming shortly. (Probably not worth the wait lol)

For the sound it's worth checking that you're seeing the 15v on the collector of T11, if you haven't already. IC3 only delivers the basic sound bleeps, the main sounds come from IC2. Not sure which one supplies the error sounds? For the Hold button it's possibly one of the associated diodes in the switch matrix unless it's affecting other switches you may not have noticed yet. In that case it could be IC22 or one of the caps C24-28 going short. It's quite easy to fault.

Still not here yet! hoping in the next few weeks

midasororey@yahoo.es Really helpful guy and knows his onions on backlit stuff and printing once he uderstands what you need

just done some working out, with the resistor 27 ohms and the speaker at 30 ohms this totals 57 ohms, the supply is 12v so when the transistor T11 turns on 210ma passes through the transistor collector to emitter, that's 2.53watts, the transistor is rated for 800ma. but if the 30 ohm speaker is replaced with 8 ohm this becomes 27ohm resistor +8 ohms = 35 ohms, so the current goes up to 343ma and 4.12 watts! its still well within the transistors switching capacity, but as its most likely 40 year old transistor it will most likely die as these are prone to failing with age even when everything is all correct! also the increased current and switching the transistor on and off rapidly to create the 'tone' will cause heat in the transistor junction which can also cause the transistor to fail, but may be fine for a while. so its up to you really what you do. Others will say just change the speaker from 30 ohms to 8 ohms, and yes it will work, but it is entirely up to you if you want to do that, or do it properly. I would presume 30 ohms was chosen so a 3w 27 ohm resistor would be well within the ratings, with the 8 ohm speaker 4.12w puts the 27 ohm resistor as well under rated at just 3w

hi, you say...the resistor .. 'it didn't make much difference', but what about the T11 transistor on the board switching the voltage on and off now has more collector current as the speaker load is the collector resistor for the transistor, so the transistor T11 is not more likely to fail. this is why the speaker is 30 ohms as there is no standard audio amplifier to drive standard 8 ohm speakers as is usual

Hello everyone. To finish this machine, the speaker still needed replacing. That's done; I replaced it with a 16-ohm speaker. I tried adding an 8-ohm resistor to get closer to 30 ohms. But honestly, the result didn't make much difference. Very little difference. So I didn't add the resistor, and it works fine as is. So, it's finished. I want to thank everyone who contributed again. I'll make a video, as requested. Not right away (I have to leave again), but it will be done. Thanks everyone.

I found on Ebay this catalog about upright Bally slot machines especially about the "treasure chest" The seller don't tell me what informations are in this catalog about the machine. Electrical diagram ? diagram of the inside of the machine ? Could someone provide me with some information about this catalog ? Thanks in advance.

Waouh... Thanks a lot for these informations and picture . The two machines look very similar. Mine has been modified, some wires are cut inside the cabinet and some exterior and interior parts are missing but they were in place before as you can see on the pictures. My machine has certainly been simplified, she works good now but there is no more "random hold feature, card payout feature and joker wild feature" I'm going to search in Bally's archive.

Pretty sure it's an early 1970s Bally machine. Possibly some companies conversion of the original game back in the day, I say that as I would expect Bally to have their logo on one of the glasses. Here is a similar cabinet Bally Machine, Treasure Chest from the same era to compare.

totally puts me off wanting to sell anything on there, over the years have thought of selling the boards etc I made, but then hearing about the scams i think naa, I will loose less money by not selling!

I hate people 😞

Next up in my arcade flyer book collection are video games from 1991 to current day along with modern ticket/redemption ticket games to current day There are 5 new volumes in total, each at 400 pages or just under. The volumes are split by era and manufacturer as follows . 7 1991-2000 - Namco, Sega 388 8 1991-2000- Konami. Midway, Atari, Taito, ICE and others 400 9 2001-2010 - Namco, Sega, Konami, Raw Thrills and others 400 10 2011-2023 Namco, Sega, Konami, Raw Thrills, Electrocoin, UNIS, ICE and others 288 Redemption/ticket modern machines 2011-2024 ICE, Raw Thrills, UDC, UNIS, Jet, Baytek, Sega, Namco. LAI and others 400 I've tried to include all of the popular games and some of the less well known ones but have not included a lot of the obscure Japanese games which never made it over here nor many Jamma games, focusing on the dedicated larger machines of the era. All magazines will be printed to the high glossy standard as the other flyer compilations that some of you may have seen. I've included pictures of previous flyer book prints to give you a general idea. Unfortunately as with everything at the moment the printing costs have gone up considerably since last time so each volume will be £30 (except volume 10 £25) with a full set at £135. Postage (Royal Mail tracked) £7.35 on top (or £3.85 if just one volume). PLEASE PM ME WITH YOUR ORDER Here are some pictures from the print files for these magazines to give you an idea of the content. I also have copies of my arcade autobiography book, Pushing Buttons if anyone is interested in these. I'll give it a couple of weeks before placing a bulk order. Unless there is enough demand to justify a second order this will be the only chance to get these. Hope these will be of interest to some of you. Cheers Greg

As Bob said above, max volume is approx 60 ohm, so you could put an 8 ohm in and change the 27 to a 49 ohm resistor, whatever you do if it is not original it will effect the volume but you can compensate by setting the volume to your required level, some have just put an 8 ohm in and not turned it up as much. There is an old thread here. Well done on getting to this stage and hopefuly there wont be any more previous owner errors to sort out.

andy keptboy has loads of it or he did ... might be worth messaging him ?

I will message you

I have no idea sorry! Also I have no way of testing them, pulled from a box of around 50 displays I have

I can't remember what the resistance is of the volume control pot but at maximum volume you will have approximately 60 Ohms load so half the power will be dissipated in the 27 Ohm resistor. I think the 10 Ohm is to stop the sound being turned off completely.

It depends on what sounds are being generated. This isn't very helpful I know but as you have no sound at all it shouldn't matter. What you could try is to disconnect the green plug then switch on as this will generate an alarm. Then you can check all those outputs from the two chips to see which one (if any) has a waveform on it. If you can't find anything I'll set it up here and let you know for sure which chip sends the alarm tone. Putting two speakers in series is a good idea, just make sure you put them in phase.

Sorry Jimxxx; the translation isn't working properly. I don't understand. Also, you told me to remove a wire; I did, but I didn't realize it. There are times when I deserve a slap. Thanks

Those studs are made of plastic (or they should be) so they won't need insulating? The only metal ones are the two fixing the board to the chassis and two holding the ROM cart holder. Before replacing IC4 I would check if any other switches on the same line are working. I would also find out exactly which one it's on (9 or 10) then see what switch it is on the black connector and also the DIL switches. If you can find what they do it will be easy to check that IC4 is OK. You could put the scope on it and see if there's a waveform going in to IC22. With no switches operated there shouldn't be. Are you sure the switch isn't stuck on?

Wow! Just seen this. What an absolute gem of a machine. Good luck - would be lovely to see the old girl in action.

As they say... the end justifies the means.

No, the congratulations are for you, the experts. I'll try to find the right diagram. Thank you. To be continued.

There are three different types of RESET circuit. There is pic of them in the downloads area somewhere and they are all different. Felicitations Lamiral.

You'll tell me; look at your first repaired MPU. !!! Make some comparisons. It's back in its machine and working perfectly thanks to you. I don't want to touch it anymore. Okay, I'm going to investigate my problems. Thanks

T56 should be a thyristor? 2N5061 or 2N5060 at least that's what should have been removed. You had better check!

Good evening, everyone. Thank you for taking an interest in my problem. So, T56 = BC172 (new) As are T57, T58, T59, and T60 (BC172) (new) T61 = ZTX510 (new) I'm going to do some checks, track checks and others. Thanks; have a good evening.

Good Morning, Reset line is on pin 34 of all the 6821`s and a few other places, also easier is the test pin above the power socket, see pic. Connect your logic probe, turn it on and report back what happens. 👍

That's brilliant, thanks so much for that.👍

original double up deluxe

Got my mits on these 2708 chips, and back in the shed after too many weeks off. Not linked in the rom DAT by name, but all CRC32 numbers are in. Nudge_Shuffle_13-.zip Can these be put on 2 X 2532 chip and run on sys80? The working CPU card I have don't have enough slots for 5 proms, but I don't know if sys 80 looks in a particular rom slot to get the data, or if I can burn these 5K onto 2532 (4K) chips and it will run OK? If so how to join the files... Would I put 4 K onto the first chip and 1K onto the second? Or just fix the CPU card with 6 sockets perhaps