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Razzle is great game ,the best mpu3 tall cab game in my opinion. Well worth the wait .

Hi folks, Ive got some rare game artwork id like to print out-we've also got a graphics designer at work that will help me out tidying up the artwork... does anyone know anything about the printing processes or what companies do it-especially reel bands? Ive seen many people look into it over the years but not many people see it through- which is mad because of how many machines and reels have been produced over the years... is it niche or what?

Ive emailed him

yes that looks fine, 47 ohms 3w resistor will be fine with a 16 ohm speaker 👍 as long as it is close or near enough i would say it's fin. good work!

Hello! Fantastic!! It's good practice for you and a real boost for me. I understand everything. (I think...) I've got my calculator out again. Ohm's law. Thanks! Soon, I'll replace the original 27-ohm resistor with a 47-ohm 4W one. That will bring the resistance down to 63 ohms. It'll be cleaner, too. Please don't hold it against me. I'm slow to react, and sometimes the translation isn't straightforward. But we'll get there, with the explanations from Bob, JimXXX, Andrew... Thanks!

We’ve all said this before but ‘untested’ or ‘not working but may just need a fuse’ are always total bollocks. Both = fucked.

Hello everyone. I would like to present you this electroméchanical machine and ask you for help. Here are sone pics of the machine and of the machine card. Maybe somebody knows this machine ?

Hello. I'm continuing the ddismantling and cleaning of the machine. A lot of dried grease to remove. I found this coin inside the machine, instead of a washer.

I have got one of these, im still trying to suss out all the features, but its a nice game to play.. im amazed at how you make these emulators i may challenge you to making one for my jive money coin pusher. this is a pic of viva Las Vegas. so you can see the layout.

Good evening, gentlemen. I have an update. I had two remaining problems: 1. The lamps/lights 2. The sound. 1 - The first problem is solved. In the video, you can see that the X2 isn't lit when it should be. However, the following is lit, just above it: OR COLLECT 1/2 AND GAMBLE. Well, I admit; I searched a lot before realizing that the group of two lamps/lights was reversed. Probably during a previous cleaning. 2 - I received a faulty speaker; I'm waiting for a new one. That's all for now. Have a good evening. VID_20260212_165641.mp4

There is another card Inside the cabinet. "This is the property of Phonographic equipment CO ltd" https://irp.cdn-website.com/d96e2807/files/uploaded/4._The__Phonographic_Equipment_Company_Ltd_Part_Three.pdf

I have blocked him, I still got my money minus return label, buyer got a working board but instead of being happy decided to get his money back! I believe in Karma

Matty's work is top class, and worth waiting for.

That stinks, eBay are too quick to rule in favour of buyers and your experience is a good example of why sellers are put off from using eBay.. It is possible to report bad buyers, and to block them for bidding or buying your item.

Good evening. Thank you for the link about the speaker. I've read everything. I've also done a lot of reading on this topic of speaker impedance and resistor configuration. There are pros and cons, some agree, some disagree... in short...full of diverse and varied opinions. I haven't decided yet. For information, I forgot to mention it, the potentiometer is 50 ohms. It's almost over. Merci. Have a good evening.

Dodgy French switches that is 🤣🤣

More to come, if you don't mind... My display was completely malfunctioning. But after cleaning and lubricating all the connectors, it's back to normal. (I used brake cleaner and a very small amount of silicone lubricant.) It's probably also because I properly insulated the PCB's mounting points. This prevents short circuits. As you can see in the photos, I used two layers of heat-shrink tubing. I had already done this on the first MPU, but on this one, I had to double it up. Overall, it works; the hold function and sound are still an issue. Plus a few other minor things here and there. Thanks Have a good weekend. Sorry, I can't seem to reduce the video size. Afficheur qui délire.mp4

Whoooo - oooo - ooo 👻 Better (absurdly) late than never! Incoming shortly. (Probably not worth the wait lol)

For the sound it's worth checking that you're seeing the 15v on the collector of T11, if you haven't already. IC3 only delivers the basic sound bleeps, the main sounds come from IC2. Not sure which one supplies the error sounds? For the Hold button it's possibly one of the associated diodes in the switch matrix unless it's affecting other switches you may not have noticed yet. In that case it could be IC22 or one of the caps C24-28 going short. It's quite easy to fault.

Still not here yet! hoping in the next few weeks

I know Mike, purchase date was 14th December! Hopefully worth the wait

That sounds like some sort of primitive lady pleasing device! Im looking at the wiring-one of the spade connectors is on a chain(the one you have removed)... does that go to the other solenoids that are also firing? That could be a clue. Can you take a pic of how the other solenoids are wired... or maybe someone else can validate the wiring is correct. Take it these are +50V(ish) AC drives for the solenoids? Seems like there could be too much current draw for them to stop firing.

Set on 20p with the jackpot at £150. thanks are in the notes. there will be a real layout to follow. (by dave p) CLUB PINNACLE.rar

Not that I can see. Just looked at the auction and at £500 in non-working condition I can't see them becoming available any time soon!

To change the game from 10p play change Dil switch 3, I believe on the second bank of switches, and that will sort that out, it could be on bank 1, but I'm pretty sure it is bank 2

The other thing to consider is whether the different ROMs have different allocations to the solenoids! Maybe a lockout on one is a solenoid on another? Do you have the original ROMs to test?

It's usually a board issue with the capacitors beside the payout transistors or a leaky transistor

midasororey@yahoo.es Really helpful guy and knows his onions on backlit stuff and printing once he uderstands what you need

Waouh... Thanks a lot for these informations and picture . The two machines look very similar. Mine has been modified, some wires are cut inside the cabinet and some exterior and interior parts are missing but they were in place before as you can see on the pictures. My machine has certainly been simplified, she works good now but there is no more "random hold feature, card payout feature and joker wild feature" I'm going to search in Bally's archive.

Pretty sure it's an early 1970s Bally machine. Possibly some companies conversion of the original game back in the day, I say that as I would expect Bally to have their logo on one of the glasses. Here is a similar cabinet Bally Machine, Treasure Chest from the same era to compare.

totally puts me off wanting to sell anything on there, over the years have thought of selling the boards etc I made, but then hearing about the scams i think naa, I will loose less money by not selling!

Next up in my arcade flyer book collection are video games from 1991 to current day along with modern ticket/redemption ticket games to current day There are 5 new volumes in total, each at 400 pages or just under. The volumes are split by era and manufacturer as follows . 7 1991-2000 - Namco, Sega 388 8 1991-2000- Konami. Midway, Atari, Taito, ICE and others 400 9 2001-2010 - Namco, Sega, Konami, Raw Thrills and others 400 10 2011-2023 Namco, Sega, Konami, Raw Thrills, Electrocoin, UNIS, ICE and others 288 Redemption/ticket modern machines 2011-2024 ICE, Raw Thrills, UDC, UNIS, Jet, Baytek, Sega, Namco. LAI and others 400 I've tried to include all of the popular games and some of the less well known ones but have not included a lot of the obscure Japanese games which never made it over here nor many Jamma games, focusing on the dedicated larger machines of the era. All magazines will be printed to the high glossy standard as the other flyer compilations that some of you may have seen. I've included pictures of previous flyer book prints to give you a general idea. Unfortunately as with everything at the moment the printing costs have gone up considerably since last time so each volume will be £30 (except volume 10 £25) with a full set at £135. Postage (Royal Mail tracked) £7.35 on top (or £3.85 if just one volume). PLEASE PM ME WITH YOUR ORDER Here are some pictures from the print files for these magazines to give you an idea of the content. I also have copies of my arcade autobiography book, Pushing Buttons if anyone is interested in these. I'll give it a couple of weeks before placing a bulk order. Unless there is enough demand to justify a second order this will be the only chance to get these. Hope these will be of interest to some of you. Cheers Greg

As Bob said above, max volume is approx 60 ohm, so you could put an 8 ohm in and change the 27 to a 49 ohm resistor, whatever you do if it is not original it will effect the volume but you can compensate by setting the volume to your required level, some have just put an 8 ohm in and not turned it up as much. There is an old thread here. Well done on getting to this stage and hopefuly there wont be any more previous owner errors to sort out.

andy keptboy has loads of it or he did ... might be worth messaging him ?

I will message you

I can't remember what the resistance is of the volume control pot but at maximum volume you will have approximately 60 Ohms load so half the power will be dissipated in the 27 Ohm resistor. I think the 10 Ohm is to stop the sound being turned off completely.

It depends on what sounds are being generated. This isn't very helpful I know but as you have no sound at all it shouldn't matter. What you could try is to disconnect the green plug then switch on as this will generate an alarm. Then you can check all those outputs from the two chips to see which one (if any) has a waveform on it. If you can't find anything I'll set it up here and let you know for sure which chip sends the alarm tone. Putting two speakers in series is a good idea, just make sure you put them in phase.

Hello gentlemen. Well, once again, I must apologize profusely. Unbelievable. In the photo, you can see three switches; something should have caught my attention; what? The color of the middle one is black; unlike the others. I took it apart twice; tested it twice: open, closed; closed, open... OK. They are all connected the same way. So, it didn't seem strange to me. Besides, on the schematic, you can clearly see they are open. But even stranger, I didn't change that. So, with the T56 error (see above) and now the switch, I expect more surprises. And I will have some, on the tube matrix, for example, and surely others... Luckily, you're here. To point out my mistakes. Sorry again. HOLD issue fixed. The tube and sound issues remain. Thank you for your help.

Welcome Sean, Great machines you've listed there, and I think we would all love to own at least one of those. 2p machines from that era, are very rare, and command a high price. There are a few members on here, that might point you in the right direction, of trying to find a good 80's machine. Well, from Chorley, you have Red Rose, plus Retro Fruits / Reel Fruits in Blackpool. I've only been to retro fruits, and I could spend a week in there, very easily. I was local (Liverpool), but currently living in Celina Ohio. I've got 2 machines over here. a Duff Beer Guide and a Big Brother. I'd like to have some 10 JPM machines such as Impulse, Roller Coaster, Monopoly, but the cost of shipping and now tariffs, is not an option currently. Welcome to the forums, we are a pretty relaxed crowd here. Regards Statto

Hello. My studs are made of metal; what a shame. They'll stay that way; they're well insulated now. Yes, the push-button switch isn't stuck; that's the first thing I checked. I'll double-check this whole area before replacing IC4. As Bob said, it's not easy to do inside the cabinet. jjmXXX; it's a normally closed (NC) contact; if I disconnect a wire, it's the opposite. Thank you for following this adventure.

Does it still do it if you disconnect a wire from the back of the switch?

Those studs are made of plastic (or they should be) so they won't need insulating? The only metal ones are the two fixing the board to the chassis and two holding the ROM cart holder. Before replacing IC4 I would check if any other switches on the same line are working. I would also find out exactly which one it's on (9 or 10) then see what switch it is on the black connector and also the DIL switches. If you can find what they do it will be easy to check that IC4 is OK. You could put the scope on it and see if there's a waveform going in to IC22. With no switches operated there shouldn't be. Are you sure the switch isn't stuck on?

https://www.fruit-emu.com/forums/files/file/843-topgear-1280-dx/?fbclid=IwY2xjawPqHSVleHRuA2FlbQIxMABicmlkETBpRnNnRENYRFNEeE5GcXZsc3J0YwZhcHBfaWQQMjIyMDM5MTc4ODIwMDg5MgABHpXGeV-iKxZ8YCMaTM933uYvOIHV8xr726pu7dkHQlwCE1Y_EoKpcShlwqxi_aem_XhDFX2ULw8TSZOxILnCAzA If anyone can help. if you are on FRUIT EMU. i for the life of me cant get on as cant register its calling me spam lol and saying im not welcome very odd as i was offering to pay anually. im not the only one who cant so ever runs it may want to look into it. I need this DX LAYOUT and early v ROMS (basically this link downloaded and emailed if poss to me or is it here on the mecca????? its TOP GEAR and this one seems to be the 3 pound version . i have the real machine but its the 4 pound. i love my machine and wanted to see the differences thanks and regards j sharpe showreels4u@hotmail.com

These speakers are practically impossible to find unless you are lucky enough to find a "new old stock " speaker or a second hand one . Bob isn't there a way to create 30ohms on a speaker with less ohms using resistors ?

Wow! Just seen this. What an absolute gem of a machine. Good luck - would be lovely to see the old girl in action.

As they say... the end justifies the means.

A quick update, i thought i had got rid of this strange reset issue but alas i had not (well i have now). So running on the golden nudge it cart, 9 times out of ten when you got nudges it would work, however with its own nippy nudger cart it rarely would, normal gameplay fine but as soon as you nudged it would reset. Wiring between the two carts slightly different as it uses different lamp outputs for nudge feature and the coin lockout and one of the meters are swapped. Anyway by total accident i realised it was only when the four lamps in the nudge panel were flashing and you nudged it would reset, take the lamps out and it would be fine, now psu is ok all recapped and new regulator, 5.1v very steady but a 0.4v drop on the 15v (15.2v) when lamps flashing. I was only getting 8.6v across the 9.1v zener but that could well be within tolerance. At this point i cheated a little as the only 9.1v zener i have is a stud mount diode so i put an 8.2v zener in (i do recall Barcrest released some notes on MPU3 about changing the zener on low voltage sites, not that mine is low). It works fine now every time. So maybe it is an iffy zener transistor or resistor on the voltage sense circuit (i dont care now it works)

Hello experts So, Bob is right. I installed the wrong component: T56. 🙄 I was really incompetent. This board has already been repaired, and the previous owner installed the wrong component, BC172. I always check the component and the schematic; and on the schematic, it's a BC172. Hence the mistake. Now it starts; yes; Bingo! 🙂 😀 Thank you; thank you again. But, well, there are some problems: The sound; I'm going to replace T11. The display is acting up a bit. One scroll bar is stuck in HOLD mode. And others... I'm going to check the connectors, the soldering, etc. Thank you very much.

That's fantastic mate .thanks ever so much for the advice and very much appreciated 👍👍👍👍

That's brilliant, thanks so much for that.👍