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I was using at that time I did the that video, a weller wsp80 iron with a small tip set to 380deg c, and a Abeco 2009 Solder Sucker I now use a metcal 500 soldering iron when doing chips now, and a pace sx90 desoldering station which is much better, but those are ‘industry standard’ so carry a hefty price tag, but once you use the good stuff the difference really is noticeable and you don’t go back!!!!
- Today
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Cheers for the video Andrew, that's a great technique. What brand of solder sucker do you use?
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basically if you don't have the gear then don't attempt it. low heat so as not to lift the tracks, never apply heat for more than a few seconds even with a proper temperature controlled soldering iron, and NEVER EVER EVER attempt to prise the socket out with a screwdriver! if it doesn't come out with finger pressure then its not completely DE soldered. there is no shortcut, anything that goes wrong like pulling away tracks, or pulling out the through hole insides WILL result in tones more hours in corrective action which takes skill to do. here is a video I did 9 years ago with the tools you are suggesting to do it.
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Correct. I could be tempted into getting one though...
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Cheers. My solder sucker isn't brilliant. I was thinking about getting a Hakko 301 but they are pretty expensive. I thought about cutting the old socket up, but I reckon that would end in calamity
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Im assuming that you don't have a desolder station? Failing that you want desolder braid and i find that flux can help too. The saving grace with SRU is no battery on board so hopefully the solder hasn't gone too bad. Be careful not to put too much heat onto the pins, nice and steady. You don't want to lift any pads.
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Patience and be careful ! I would reflow all the pins with some new solder first and then use a solder sucker, it is an old board so the tracks are wider than todays boards so will be more resiliant. Don`t try prising the holder out until every pin is free. But i am sure you know all that and are just hoping for a short cut, it is a shame it is that type of holder as i think trying to cut the holder up first is a bit risky.
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Hi gang. I have a problem with a 40 pin Socket...there's 4 legs from a rotten tms9980 snapped off in the socket. The only solution I can see is to replace the socket...but how to desolder such a big socket? Any ideas?
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It should do as the fixing is by two flaps on the crimp. The only thing it won't work on is the solid type of pins which are soldered to the board. All mentioned earlier on in this thread.
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not tried that yet but I will have a quick go ASAP.
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I could have sworn that I fixed a board where someone had plugged the power into the wrong socket(the person even said he had). come to think of it, it may have been the switch input as the resistors had fried and even scorched the pcb(it was about 15 years ago). my bad on the power and triac plug.
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Good stuff, thanks for sharing Bob. Likewise Im happy to get involved in a group buy if anything comes up. @Road Runnerdoes the extraction tool work on both pins and sockets? If so then it would be worth investing in.
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When I saw the price for the extraction tool it made my eyes water! Just to be pedantic the two white connectors are 15 and 12 way (PSU) so no possibility of mixing them up. Have to agree though that they chose the wrong type for the PSU connector but then again they didn't expect them to last 40 years plus!! Mind you I have seen many examples of PSU connectors looking almost new so old loose female crimps are also to blame. Never heard of Gowerpoint before but there is an example on here showing the connectors but unfortunately no documentation as is often the case.
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cheers Digby my mate is all sorted now
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cazmiester joined the community - Yesterday
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Nice find. i have the extraction tool for these it not cheap for what it consists of but it’s probably worth the investment as it makes repinning a lot easier. It was a good idea from Barcrest TBF because with the plugs being colour coded it help to prevent wrong connections from engineers that were probably just getting to grips with the new MPU based machines(with the exception of the power and triac that used the same plug and colour on the MPU3 range). They probably should probably have used totally different type for the power plug as overheating was a problem. im sure Gowerpoint used this type of connector at some point. pity they are out of print but if a group buy is on count me in.
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Well the saga continues. It's now the 11th year I've been looking and this time I've come up with another AMP document. Of interest in this one is the addition of two more pin types which have soldered tabs for PCB fitting. Not seen these before but they are the normal type of pins (ie the crimp ones). Still no further with the solid pins though and whether they are a separate item or come pre-fitted with the shells. Comboline.pdf
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Fantastic, i'll look forward to see a video of it when it's all up and running. ☺️
- Last week
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Spot on, looking forward to seeing the finished article! 👌
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Hi, I have this one buts is a data one only T8885_2_49157D I do have T8885_1_43231 which is none data, the machine should update to the latest anyway so might help? let me know Regards
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Big thanks to Superbank and Clo. EPROMs have been burned and have arrived. I've tried them and they work! One step closer to reviving this Nudge Double Up 😀
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Hey guys, I hope you are all well. So I got bored and bought a non working MPU5 machine for cheap with a 54-2A error. I believe the issue is with the LCD meter near the coin mechanism, however, I wouldn't put it past being the main board. The board itself has some minor batt leakage but seems OK, nothing major. When you switch it on it goes to boot and displays "Yaba Daba Darts" before error coding. No audio with this error message though, which is strange. I was hoping one of you lovely people would have a spare for some beer tokens. Wanted to try replacing this before I bought the board. Many thanks. Chris.
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Good afternoon I am after some data protocol software for Classic Red Hot Roll, MPU5, RIO Cabinet. I have attached the full set, I think its bingo if this helps anyone locate RNDR_0-2_STD_CSUM-FB13.P2RNDR.P4RNDR.P3RNDR_0-2B_STD_CSUM-816D.P1 I do have this file, it says its data but if i fit this then the RED status LED stays on and does not boot so not sure if its labelled wrong or corrupt? CSUM is 5332 RNDR0.2D.P1 The PIC and card show conflicting versions but im going to go from the Alpha display. Thanks in advance
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LogicUK joined the community -
I moved the flying saucer sensor towards the top of the tube and then made sure the other one was ok and then the left hand tube is now in use and the right one locked out. I will precede with filling up the tubes and see what happens.
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When the coins reach the sensor in tube one, the machine will lock out that coin slot, and only allow 50ps to go into the other 50p slot. You may find the right tube is locked out because the sensor thinks the tube is full. I’ve had it before where the sticker on the tube is confused for coins by the machine. Try sliding sensor around a bit - just allow a few secs for the machine to catch up between moving it
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Long time fruitie fan here and dying to get my hands on Club Crazy Fruits - onbe of the best!
