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- Today
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JPM, my view from the inside. Frank Bird.
Frank Bird replied to Frank Bird's topic in RONS ELECTRO CLUB
David Mead came to join me in CS and together we repaired hundreds of SRU circuit boards and those damned Varelco(?) plugs that kept on breaking when you unplugged the board from the reel unit, what a design flaw that was. He had an absolute photographic memory and would remember details from older machines in seconds we had no need to have record kept, although he did as I remember and kept copious volumes of details. I met him in a pub a few months (years?) ago and he is still in the industry and is an engineer for one of the big companies, forgive me I know not which one. Tony Braggins went from development to HR, strange step but there you go. He spent years in that role before retiring and as far as I know became a trustee for a Nature Park. The R+D team changed massively over the years and as I have explained previously the 'cabinet populating' side of things all went a bit pear shaped prior to the introduction of the SWP's, so that will date it for 'you that know' a you may have read I was asked to take it over when on of the w@n7ers left, or should that be pushed. The software department obviously grew from the introduction of the SRU and although we started with two or three developers, eventually it went on to number at least a dozen or more as I recall. I wasn't too involved with the software team until I took over the PM role for the SWP's and then I had at least three working for/with me under the 'matrix management' project which was novel to say the least. I do remember a game we played in the software department which involved taking an eprom and placing it in the end of the Eprom packaging tube and flicking it upwards into the ceiling tiles where the legs would hopefully keep it there embedded in the fabric, of the tile. Cheers- 313 replies
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- after sales
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Thanks for taking the time to have a look guys. I got the battery coming anyways, so may as well replace it, see if I can clean up some of the mess etc. and give it a go - nothing to lose really if it's a dud'n.. Don't suppose anyone would know of where to get a replacement from? Cheers.
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That’s a shame. Can you see what I meant regarding the battery now? If a new battery was fitted, all that board damage is still there. boards needs repair or replace, often easier and cheaper to just replace. They aren’t expensive boards (yet)
- Yesterday
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Yeah, that's knackered. Time for a new board.
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Haven't taken it off the board yet, but here's what I can see so far 😬
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This is the common misconception with batteries. your board doesn’t need a battery to work, the issue is the damage done by the leaky battery to the board. its like taking a smashed up car to the car wash.
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Brill, cheers Generation. Indeed, the battery looks like it might have done a leaky-poo. Ordered one off ebay and am waiting on that to come, so wasn't going to remove / do any further inspection until the new one comes.. In terms of replacing it, should it just be a swap-over, ie, there's nothing else that needs to be re-programmed or anything when it comes off the board? Assuming it'll forget running totals etc.. Thank you
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Error is for payout I believe, which is why demo is ok. coukd be a few things, but I’d start by inspecting the battery area on the board for leaks. If you can, post a few high resolution pics of the area. A lot of people say “seems fine, no leak” then they post pics, and there’s very obvious damage
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Hello everyone. Hoping to get some advice on a deal or no deal scorpion 5 which I picked up on Saturday with no keys, no manual.. All works in demo mode, but when it initialises it gives a error code 17. Lights all on board etc. Cheers, Al
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Al C joined the community -
mickshez joined the community - Last week
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Cheers. I have looked at this one and wondered if it was any good. I don't want to spend hundreds, but this looks like a decent half way house
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https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/desoldering-station-uk-eu-plug-80w/dp/SD01384?mckv=sshopping_dm|pcrid|605262956863|kword||match||plid||slid||product|SD01384|pgrid|138313689055|ptaid|pla-1890077691045|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SHOPPING-9262013734-138313689055-SD01384&s_kwcid=AL!5616!3!605262956863!!!network}!1890077691045!&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=9262013734&gbraid=0AAAAAD_m6B3zqqiBAzypTLzFiD74XNbKV&gclid=CjwKCAjw2brFBhBOEiwAVJX5GJOHqZJyIKERM7dw1pJfCC9H-GTG_oPT9KJdHqrsoWvbKNwNB9zD0BoCnmcQAvD_BwE This is good enough for working on circuit boards. You'll need to get some spares for it too if you're going to use it a lot. It's a decent affordable unit.
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Cheers Graham I have a temperature controlled iron which is ok. What brand of desolder station would you recommend?
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It depends how involved you want to get, and also how deep your pockets are too! You need a decent temperature controlled soldering iron above anything, so if you're going to invest then put it in that. I really rate Weller gear but depends on your budget, other brands are available 🙂 If you've got some spare cash and are planning on doing a lot of work then get a desolder station, they're a game changer!
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Thanks for the detailed info. Very helpful...it's a tricky balance, deciding on how much to spend on tools....
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A video says a thousand words, Nice one Andrew👍
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I have a few of these meters. Have it for a tenner posted if u pm me cheers
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I was using at that time I did the that video, a weller wsp80 iron with a small tip set to 380deg c, and a Abeco 2009 Solder Sucker I now use a metcal 500 soldering iron when doing chips now, and a pace sx90 desoldering station which is much better, but those are ‘industry standard’ so carry a hefty price tag, but once you use the good stuff the difference really is noticeable and you don’t go back!!!!
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Cheers for the video Andrew, that's a great technique. What brand of solder sucker do you use?
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basically if you don't have the gear then don't attempt it. low heat so as not to lift the tracks, never apply heat for more than a few seconds even with a proper temperature controlled soldering iron, and NEVER EVER EVER attempt to prise the socket out with a screwdriver! if it doesn't come out with finger pressure then its not completely DE soldered. there is no shortcut, anything that goes wrong like pulling away tracks, or pulling out the through hole insides WILL result in tones more hours in corrective action which takes skill to do. here is a video I did 9 years ago with the tools you are suggesting to do it.
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Correct. I could be tempted into getting one though...
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Cheers. My solder sucker isn't brilliant. I was thinking about getting a Hakko 301 but they are pretty expensive. I thought about cutting the old socket up, but I reckon that would end in calamity
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Im assuming that you don't have a desolder station? Failing that you want desolder braid and i find that flux can help too. The saving grace with SRU is no battery on board so hopefully the solder hasn't gone too bad. Be careful not to put too much heat onto the pins, nice and steady. You don't want to lift any pads.
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Patience and be careful ! I would reflow all the pins with some new solder first and then use a solder sucker, it is an old board so the tracks are wider than todays boards so will be more resiliant. Don`t try prising the holder out until every pin is free. But i am sure you know all that and are just hoping for a short cut, it is a shame it is that type of holder as i think trying to cut the holder up first is a bit risky.
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Hi gang. I have a problem with a 40 pin Socket...there's 4 legs from a rotten tms9980 snapped off in the socket. The only solution I can see is to replace the socket...but how to desolder such a big socket? Any ideas?
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It should do as the fixing is by two flaps on the crimp. The only thing it won't work on is the solid type of pins which are soldered to the board. All mentioned earlier on in this thread.
