All Activity

Ive done them under duress on arcade games, depending what screen you are going to use you can just use a converter board to convert from RGB to scart/vga/dsub or HDMI. Im not familiar with mpu 4 screen driving personally though. CRTs are more 4:3 aspect ratio (square looking) and modern screens are 16:9 (wide screens). So if you fit a wide-screen it will either squish and stretch the image or it will have large black areas each side of the image. If you want to use an LCD I would look for a mid 2000's vga screen in 4:3 aspect ratio as wide screens never look right. I built my own arcade machine years ago and thats what I used (using barrel and scanline filters in the game software to make it look like a CRT which looks sick). Best bet is take the screen to a CRT guy and see if its serviceable, it might only need a recap. Someone on UKvac might do it or tell you more.

Hi Just wondering if anyone has done a conversion from a crt to LCD screen ? Mpu4 cab same as Monte Carlo or bust, crystal maze or Reno reels ? Wondering how many hertz monitor I need Regards Sam

Hi is there a pdf file on the site for jpm eachway nudger mk2 please as cant find it or know a link to download it many thanks in advance

Another new machine ! Popeye jackpot , just need some tokens now ! converted_14.mp4

I wasn't but could be. An Epoch machine with a full house on the Eprom sockets and LCD meter could be handy. Or anything that uses the serial 2 port or auxiliary display processing port also

Much appreciated and as always it’s always great to catch up with you in person👍👍👍

No worries phil glad to help

Hi All

This game has a 4 reel driver board in it. Which has a ROM on the driver board. Does anyone have access to one of these machines please? Or an old driver board with ROM intact? Or even better an already dumped Reel Driver ROM?

Ah glad you got sorted

Thankyou so much for looking , Nick as found one for me :)) appreciate your help tho 👍

Sorry Phil, only got a green start collect button

h many thanks for the file i have passed it on i think the guy im trying to help has 3.17 so it might be a case of trying to find the 3.17 bootstrap file

Here’s the file, if I remember it’s was also hidden, I’m sure it’s mapped to the USB. what version do you have on the MPU6? MPU6CLR.MEM

hi digby its a strange fault we have tried the normal route like ram test and self test and we have tried different mpu6 boards but it seems the pc in the t7 is telling the mpu6 the battery is flat but its not metered at 3.25 now the strange thing is we put the mpu6 in a reel based machine and ram cleared it loaded file on and all good but as soon as you put in the t7 its telling it that the battery is flat 2.5

I have the file but the problem is the USB is generated so the file only works on 1 USB, I’m guessing it has the ID somewhere within the bin. you can clear by powering on the MPU with the up and down buttons pressed then going to ram test

So the real VFD came in to the workshop as dead, and it was. These devices are quite pricey and I did warn the owner it might not be repairable. However trusty soldering iron in one hand and meter in the other I dived in casting caution to the wind. It has 3 electrolytic caps, 2 x SMD and one through hole. Both SMD caps were effectively open circuit but all three were changed to 105° types. Once these were done and the device powered up the screen was still blank so I needed to drive it with something. Looking up the spec sheet it showed that the SIN/TO pin, if grounded, would switch to test mode and by jove it did, displaying the whole character set. Sending it back for testing expecting a glowing report proved a bit premature. The device was still dead and the machine would only boot up without the VFD connected?? When it arrived again at the workshop I swear it was poking it's tongue out at me. Anyway not to be outdone it was time for a bit more researching. Next to no info on the web, no diagrams or fault repairs on Youtube. So first step was to find out why it was stopping the board from booting. This VFD connects to the 14 way DIL connector via the little PSU board. The only wire which goes directly from the VFD to the board is the BUSY link. I assume this is used to slow the main board logic when it needs to print lots of text to the screen. When this connection was removed everything burst into life! Checking with a meter showed it to be permanently HIGH. Here's a pic of the board so you can see what I was dealing with... Did the BUSY line go direct to one of the LSI chips because if it did that was goodnight Vienna! Trying to trace tracks on this was no easy task either but the BUSY line did appear on the O/P of IC2. This was a single OR gate and the output was stuck high. Checking the I/P showed a nice waveform but nothing on the O/P. I managed to find some replacements on Ebay at a reasonable price and slipped in a new one and bingo, nice waveform on the O/P and with the BUSY link re-connected everything burst into life. You have to take precautions when reworking these boards due to the proximity of other components and plastic parts. Best thing for this is Kapton tape to shield the bits you don't want melted.

HI looking for mpu6 clear down file if anyone has it many thanks in advance

https://www.fruitemu.co.uk/ib/files/file/924-max-a-million-manual/ Not had a look myself, just going by the title as i noticed it the other day looking for something else.

What are you looking for? And are you still looking?

Does anyone have this manual please?

Thankyou so much 👍

Will have a look Phil prob later in the week

Evening all , I have been building a reel crazy for the last couple of weeks but I am missing the yellow start button 🙄 I don’t suppose anyone as one spare happy to pay plus postage many thanks

Hi i am andy, nice to meet everyone! Looingforward to being able to play and chat about fruit machines old and new!