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Awesome... save some pc92s for the rest of us 😅 Yeah see that is strange as Chico is in the cabinet before the front opener? So if thats got the bacta keys but they're not in the later Theme park... could have been some loom pillaging going on at some point with the TP. That does sound like a ball ache... magik is way better on displays than me. How many wires going from the little display board to the display... the usual +V GND Reset Sclk and data?Recently had a ball ache with some 5v vfds myself stopping an m1 machine from booting. Not something like a hole in the Fet? The main problem is you can't really find other parts to swap that so gotta probe it all out.

Thanks bob I’m suspecting the ls08 I guess I could probe it but may as well just change it

That output through the burnt resistor is part of the switch matrix, it that's not working right you'll get all funny things happening with the switches.

Not quite yet. We go off on a bit of a tangent here so bear with me.... I'm also trying to get my head round Chico the bandit. Again no info but have been following Magiks superb vids on Youtube. This does have a stake key fitted and that might shed some light but meanwhile this one has a few funnies of its own. A large 4x20 VFD that doesn't connect to the VFD socket, yep you heard that correctly? It actually connects to the 14 way DIL socket as a serial interface. Not only that it has it's own little display PSU board. I'm trying to get all the info on this so I can get it documented as I know it caught Magik out when he encountered it. So at present lots of head scratching and wire tracing to be done. Will update when I have more info.

Any joy with it Bob?

So I removed the burnt resistor, the diode checks out ok, I test fitted the board, the alpha is back, it reports error 4.0 unexpected PO, I suspect it was doing this before I could see the alpha and again pressing any button resets the machine, away to look at error codes, maybe fit a resistor back and see what happens? EDIT new resistor fitted, no change

Thanks Adrew, will check that diode, will that senario likely have killed the LS08?

the burnt one will be the same as the other 3, 47 ohms, check the zener diode, it's 4.7v the same as the other 3, this damage happens when someone connects a switch up incorrectly and sends 34v from the lamps up the switch matrix! so check the switches are wired correctly and not transposed with a lamp connection!

It may have taken the 74LS08 with it so you may have to do both. As to a cause, not really sure, maybe a short to 5v or 0v back in the loom or switches? I've had a few in recently suffering weird intermittent faults due to corrosion getting in to the cart socket. No amount of cleaning made a solid repair so they had to be swapped out which is a real pain!

Thanks bob not at all, all advice is welcome especially from you, I have ran 7 jumper wires already but component side! Still about 3 to do. I will look at what you Mentioned tomorrow any idea of the fried resistor bob? cheers Ronnie

Nice clean cabinet, shame about the battery vapours. I always do the fingernail check on those little caps C9-16 and if any of them come I apart I swap them all out. I also check that all the tracks to the associated zener diodes and caps are valid to the triac driver transistors, it easy to miss. C47 will need changing too and make sure it's ground connection is valid as the track has all but disappeared. I usually stick a rivet in the battery terminal and run a new bit of copper back to C47. You may find the positive battery terminal has rotted back to R72 as well. All 10 of those transistors in the view will need changing even if they look good. With the rotten tracks to the Alpha I stopped trying to do them on top of the board and now run patch wires underneath. Hope I'm not teaching granny to suck eggs here. Good luck.

As suspected battery has leaked causing localised damage to the tracks under battery, some repair needed! Battery snipped and board cleaned up with IPA then washed, damage not too bad, seen far worse! T13 fell apart. I'm not too sure these tracks would stop it booting fully up? I did notice R83 near IC22 has cooked! looks to be on the switch inputs? I did notice when I power the machine up pressing any button eould cause the reels to spin up again, maybe a reboot?

Picked up this one very local to me, not my era but thought worth saving, seems to be a good game from the 90's just pre MPU5, suprisingly it does boot but only spins up the reels, nothing else! No alpha, prime suspect is battery damage to tracks under! To be continued..................

Very impressive collection i must say. I wish i had your dedication, i buy and acquire kit like that with the intention of doing them (some do) but then get sidetracked and they end up on a work in progress pile that seems to keep growing. Some of my pile below 😂

Try changing the THEME to NEW DEFAULT. that usually lets you see the forums.

every threads I cant get in to read. is this forum broken?

Yep, for a long time: https://www.radiomuseum.org/collection/piotr_jachymczyk.html Also mechanical and early electronic calculators (with nixie tubes). I will have to buy one then, it may come in handy. But still, electromechanical logic is the best for me - like those Rotamint etc. German machines.

Older electronics....... Valves? 😀. So 6800 processor, 6810 ram and 6821 pia, pretty basic set up really. The roms (2716) should be able to be read by any eprom programmer even the cheap chinese ones. As Bob quite rightly says best to get them checked first and if they are ok get them backed up.

Exactly, it's a timer MC1455. As for the processor it's Motorola MC6800L along with MCM6810 and MC6821. ROMs are HN462716G. I must say, I never dumped any ROM, it's completely out of my expertise, I prefer older electronics. What would be the best way to do this? Maybe I'll ask around and there would be someone nearby...

The game will be on those ROMs and I expect they are rare as hens teeth. I would get those dumped and hopefully they are good as if not you could be wasting a lot of time. Does look like the precursor to BlackBox, the RAM board looks almost the same. Chat GPT thinks it's a Z80 but I doubt it?

I would start at the beginning and back to basics, is the power supply good are the voltages stable, obviously a stable 5v and whatever else there should be. I assume the power supply is in the bottom left of the machine. Those 3 electrolytic capacitors (also the 3 on the main board) could do with changing, after 46 years they aint going to be the best. Also what is the metal can device above the relay, looks like it could be an old school 555 timer or 741 op amp or i am completely wrong. What processor is it?

Hard to tell be the mpu looks like black box tech and I'm sure all chips are in sockets on them

Hmm... Those sockets look original, as there's no difference in soldering work. I already took off all ICs and cleaned and brushed PCB with baking soda and soaked it in isopropyl alkohol. I also checked some traces and there are connections across them but I would need more time to check them all. That relay seems to be a protection of some sort - it disconnects 5V from the rest of the PCB and when it's active it connects the voltage. I suppose the upper left portion is control of higher amperage devices and the lower left is input part. After all, it's quite a riddle for me as I don't have any experience in that kind of machines.

The battery damage looks quite comprehensive, hard to say from that photo, could do with some close ups of the pcb and the back. The corrosion creeps under the chips and there also appears to be some green hue on the ram jumper socket. I assume work has been done on the board before as every ic is socketed. The relay is anyones guess without experience or a schematic, could be something as simple as a jackpot / attendant bell. It would originaly have been screwed down on to a base with a door on the front of that and the overflow of coins from the hopper would go down in to that. Looks to be an electro mech reeldeck so i assume the circuitry just reads the reel positions after they have stopped and does lamps and sounds (if it has any). I am sure there are other people with more experience on this machine and may have some information on it (certainly a flyer). In the meantime get some close up pics of the pcb.