midibob Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Hi chaps, The never ending MPU3 connector saga continues. After many years of searching I've still been unable to source or find the part number for the soldered pins ie the PSU plug. This is what they look like and I've never come across anything like it. As you can see the usual heat issue as taken it's toll but has been made worse by somebody trying to clean the end. Checking with a new female crimp it didn't grip it at all! So the challenge continues to find a part number for this pin. These AMP comboline connectors were used in the aviation industry amongst other places but despite searching through various aircraft manuals I've never been able to find them. Stocks do exist though albeit in the US but like all these things if you don't have the part number you're stuffed. Part numbers are available for all the shells and all the crimps and these I've all obtained from the info that Rich supplied. (what a star) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dotteddown Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 Where’s metal 3D printing when you need it ! Unbelievable to think that no one has found them after all these years Bob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midibob Posted March 13 Author Share Posted March 13 Well, I think I've been on it for about 8 years now but haven't given up yet. I must be mad. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prototype_uk Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 Are the pins damaged beyond repair or is it just the burning changing the surface of the metal? Could possibly clean and replate them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midibob Posted March 13 Author Share Posted March 13 These ones were, it looks like they were filed or sanded down. Trouble with all things like this is the time it takes to try and clean them up. New ones would be the easiest method of course but still you have the issue of the female crimp in the plug also being loose so the thermal damage starts again. The female crimps can still be easily obtained but probably not for too much longer and they are slightly tricky to remove from the shells. With a bit of practice though you can get them out with a couple of jewellers screwdrivers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prototype_uk Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 Can you make the female ones tighter by crimping them? Cleaning wouldn't be a problem you put them in Hydrochloric Acid which will clean every inch of them then replate to protect from corrosion. I did it on my Bell Fruit Nudge Gambler bulb holders which were badly corroded and I just couldn't clean them by hand. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midibob Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 You can retension them but because the metal has been tempered with continous heat changes it soon loses its grip again. I would always recommend new ones being as they are still obtainable. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dotteddown Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 It’s a shame no one has made a replacement that solders into the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midibob Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 Indeed, I spent many an hour looking for something but there's nothing with the same footprint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Line Up Chris Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Great topic Bob. Common fault with the mpu3s unfortunately. The top two pins always seen to scorch. I think the only other answer might be is to hot wire on to the back of the board and have the top 2 pins as a separate plug if replacement pins cannot be found.. Perhaps using interlocking plugs that only join together in one position thus avoiding incorrect fitting. Mpu3 plug connectors are a pain tbh. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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