Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Donations

    0.00 GBP 

FME Most Wanted

  • FME Most Wanted #1
  • FME Most Wanted #2
  • FME Most Wanted #3
  • FME Most Wanted #4
  • FME Most Wanted #5

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Timbo's Achievements

Line Up Player

Line Up Player (9/19)



  1. That's wicked! Will certainly help me with my MPS2 boards when I need quick access... Cheers Vin!
  2. Gamebox project is on hold over winter mate. I will get round to sorting it at some point. How accurate is that heat gun? Won't I damage surrounding parts if I use it? I was looking at getting a gas soldering iron, but can i use it like a heat gun? http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=34956 What's the difference between the 50 (above kit) and the 70 kit that maplin sell? And finally, what will the pads lifting do? does it affect the working of the part? or will I be ok? Thanks again.
  3. are they expensive? I don't think it's worth me spending too much on this problem really... just be nice to have a quick, simple solution PS. Hope you are well Alex mate
  4. Cheers system80, I did try what you suggest last night for about 2 hours. I then lost patience and thought "i must be doing it wrong and there must be an easier way". I guess there were a few pins that weren't freed. In this instance the chip i am replacing is still available from RS / Farnells etc... so it's not a problem if I clip the legs off it The issue will arrise when i need to keep the chip as you can't get them anymore. On another note, what causes the odd pad on the underside of the board to raise up? Is it down to the heat and is it a problem / something that can cause a problem? if so... what should I be doing about it?
  5. Cheers guys, but I was trying to save the chip as no doubt I will come to a chip in future that cannot be ordered off the Internet without spending silly money. So i was just wondering how people got the ICs off their boards without wrecking the chip or the board. I guess it's some kind of mini-blow torch device is needed, but is there anything like that available? Gas soldering iron from Maplin?
  6. Hi guys, I know this has been asked before but I thought I' ask a fresh 2009 question. I have an MPS2 board that I am trying to fix, but so far all I have managed to do is make a mess, this is the first time I have attempted to remove something with more than 2 pins . I need to swap IC24 (a 24 pin IC) and replace it with another (yes, I'll put a socket in for future swap-outs) Anyway, I just don't seem to be able to get all the solder off the legs to enable me to remove the IC - in fact I can't get it to budge one bit. I have tried braid and pump to no avail... All the solder looks to be removed from the underside of the board, but when you look closely there is some left on the top side which the pump / braid can't get. I need to get all pins heated so I can pull the chip away somehow, but I am completely new to this process. I was wondering if there is a cheap desoldering solution that might be worth me investing in? Can anyone help on this matter? Thanks in advance.
  7. Timbo

    What would cause...

    OK.. this i driving me nuts now. I have run through the lamp tests and here's the bottom glass with what is supposed to be just the top glass lit: So it looks like it IS the sink line, but I have traced it back as far as I think I can, I have even bought a logic probe to test IC34 and IC24 but couldn't find any hint of a stuck line. I am gonna have another close look at it tonight, just wondered if anyone has seen this before / knows what it is or exactly what I can test to check stuff? Thanks in advance
  8. Timbo

    What would cause...

    YELLOW/BROWN goes to HD1 pin 33 (SO1) = Q2 and R2
  9. Timbo

    What would cause...

    Tris, just traced those wires and YELLOW/GREEN goes to HD1 pin 27 (SO4) = Q5 YELLOW/BLUE goes to HD1 pin 25 (SO5) = Q6 YELLOW/PURPLE goes to HD1 pin 23 (SO6) = Q7 Any ideas?
  10. Timbo

    What would cause...

    here a video I have taken of the machine: http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll141/timbo0011/Tuppenny%20Nudger/?action=view&current=CIMG0240.flv As you can see the START + NUDGE1 + NUDGE2 buttons are lit. I have also noticed that the top of REEL 2 is lit too. It's 100% a board fault, but I don't know where. MAGIK has been helping me a lot with this, but just wondered if anyone else has any ideas? Cheers guys.
  11. Timbo

    What would cause...

    Sorry to be thick, but are you talking about the diodes in the lamps themselves? or are these diodes on the board? I hope it's the board as the lights work fine with another board.. pointing the fault at the board.
  12. Timbo

    What would cause...

    one for TTX I guess. I have traced the purple/black wire to HD1 (Lamp Header) and it goes to pin 36 or SI0 on page 22 of the MPS2 manual (in resources) This is served by Q17 (a TIPL790) transistor - I have replaced this with a good one from another board, but the problem still exists. Any ideas? I also have to say that the purple/black wire also goes to other lights and these are not on all the time and behave fine. Am I looking in the right place?
  13. Timbo

    What would cause...

    OK.. guess it's time to see what header pin the "PURPLE/BLACK" wire goes to? then trace that and see if there's anything obvious there...
  14. Timbo

    What would cause...

    Well, the START, NUDGE REEL 1 and NUDGE REEL 2 (not HOLD on this machine) buttons are the only buttons that are lit when they shouldn't be. The manual says that these have the same colour wire going to them, but others have that colour too and they are NOT lit. LAMP ALLOCATIONS on the 2nd sheet of the scanned manual: http://www.fruitemu.co.uk/vb/downloads.php?do=file&id=459&act=down What does that tell me?
  • Create New...