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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/29/24 in Posts

  1. Anyone that wants to know the full story I made the video I was also part of obtaining permission and I was there when they were removed, I got 4 myself.. I'm happy to tell the full story to put to bed some of the rumours.. Looks to be a bit of jealously ffrom 1 or 2 unfortunately.. The main thing is some were saved❤️
    9 points
  2. Some people that know me know I did the most recent vid of the abandoned arcade... Well here is still still pics of most of the machines that were in there... I missed a couple.
    8 points
  3. They are holding up very well thanks being switched on 14 hours a day. There is now in full working order Line Up Frog Hop Adders and Ladders High Lights Exchange Unlimited Fire Cracker All working fine on new coins and getting reasonably used. Cash or Nudge not in the line yet but is fully working with a slight lamp fault Not about making money just good to see them for play and many people love them just for the memories they brought to them when they were younger
    8 points
  4. Hi there! Thanks for your reply. The picture of the board was taken before cleaning. It has been in my ultrasonic cleaner. Tracks repaired. Replaced some parts. Gone to bed yesterday evening and woke up with a fresh head.. grabbed my multimeter and found out one logic had bad ground connection...DOH!! fixed that and plugged it in...yay!! Kicked the old and heavy CRT out and installed a fresh TFT screen It is fully working again and will soon belong to Geronimo
    7 points
  5. Another one that caused an inordinate amount of head scratching. Usual symptoms of no boot due to rotten components. All the really bad stuff was swapped out until the board booted and ran OK on the test rig. On return all was not well and came back with No Boot again? Back on the test rig all was good so all the rest of the chips were swapped out around the battery area just in case. Back it goes and guess what, it comes back again as No Boot? Sometimes you think there must be a easier way to enjoy your hobby. I had to get to the bottom of this but couldn't see any reason why it would work in the workshop but not in the machine. Sometimes these boards can go conductive and need a serious clean on the top surface. The slightest bit of humidity in the atmosphere can make all the difference between it working or not. I sometimes recommend just a quick blast with a hairdrier around the battery area just in case. Back at the ranch... So after a good few hours on and off with this one and the previous one I was getting pretty fed up. Then something magical happened, it wouldn't boot. For most folks that would be a disaster but for me it was what I'd been waiting for. Being careful not to disturb anything I evenually discovered that D24 wasn't connected to IC3(6) anymore! There was a microscopic break on the top pad of D24 underneath the etch resist. The copper had been eaten away under the etch resist but looked good from the top. The bad bit is just below where the marking for R77 is, you can hopefully see where I've scraped the etch resist. Anyway a patch wire was fitted and it all burst back into life. Let's hope it doesn't come back again.
    6 points
  6. Well there you go,do apologise for me emptying them that night and pissing the money up on Pernod and black.
    6 points
  7. Hi all I've recently acquired a machine called bonus fruit by leisure games .it uses mpu3 tech housed in a leisure games cabinet with their own psu .it was rescued with official consent by fruit loopy (martin) .he took a video a week or so prior to going up with a van with his colleague Ben. Unfortunately the board and cart have been taken prior to their visit and so now I'm left hoping that the person/s who took the board and cart will offer them up at some point .without the roms it will obviously be a lost game which would be a complete waste and crying shame to break such rare gem .below are pictures of the machine . If anyone see s a mpu3 cart up for sale or the roms themselves then obviously I'd be only too happy to grab them .Also if they get dumped onto any databases again I'd be very grateful to know .thanks in advance for any info offered . Cheers Nick
    5 points
  8. Got this today while at work as I was near.it has been damp at some point as some pannels have swelled,may need to replace them not been inside yet as needs drilling. Need to see if it's worth saving.come with lots of coins too.like to know your thoughts ron.
    5 points
  9. Thankfully cash and nudge is complete with roms🙏
    5 points
  10. Float down the Nile and search the pyramids, Will you raid the tomb for its treasure or be cursed and lose the lot!! Thanks goto @hitthesix for the previous classic layout @infection - images Now onto the layout itself, this layout has a few minor problems. Firstly like the Classic layout beforehand, the Main LCD screen in the centre isn't Emulatable Atm so a fair bit of info won't show as in Let Em spin, hi lo reel is lit, and find my treasures!! also some features rely on the text so its guess work on our part!! For the main "find my treasures" the logo will flash. Finally the Start / Collect button should spin the reels and collect the bank, but couldn't workout how to make a dual functioning button, so to get around this the Collect button is underneath. you can drag the button off-screen and press "C" to collect winnings.. if anybody knows how to make it dual buttons let us know via a topic? Shortcuts are as standard Start = Spacebar Collect = Cancel = ` Holds = 1,2,3 Exchange = E £1 = 0, 20p token = 9 Enjoy and Happy Gaming!!! Secrets Golden Nile £6 Dx.zip
    5 points
  11. Hi all, Currently I am digging into the schematics of the JPM SYS80 CPU board. I do have quite some experience in 70's , 80's microprocessors, concepts , memory mapping, bank switching but the TMS9980 is new to me. Looking at the SYS80 memory decoding I cant get my head around how it works (can be the age as well 😉). This is a memory map I found of the SYS80 CPU boards (the 14K is not in it but I can guess that one). So the 16K addressing space makes sense here : Looking at the schematics of the 6K , 8K, 12K memory decoding I see the use of a few 74LS138's. Here the 6K, 8K and 12K memory decoding logic. So far so good but what I don't understand, for instance with the 6K board (but same question for other boards) is how you can decode the 2nd EPROM , on address $0400 , which is from A13-A0 -> XX00 0000 0100 0000 by just using BA0 to BA3 which are the lowest 16 addresses ?? Anyone who knows this and is willing to explain ? Kind regards, Bram
    3 points
  12. Well there I was this morning, swimming trunks on ready to jump in the Thames and all because of a System One board that was driving me nuts....... This one started with being stuck in reset, pretty much standard fare for these Ace boards. All rotten components swapped out and board running OK, at least as far as my test rig was telling me. I could play games on it and all switches and outputs appeared to function correctly. So back it went and to cut to the nitty gritty there were still reported problems. The main one was when it booted the reels were slow and the lamps dim? Not seen that one before and it was difficult to see it on the test rig not having any reels. So on the third return things started to get worse, it would still boot OK credits could be clocked up but the START button did nothing? Even during the game's test function it wouldn't recognise the START button? After a few days of head scratching and basically getting nowhere the sound went off! You couldn't make it up. By this time all the small logic chips around the battery area had been replaced, mainly out of desperation but of course the fault persisted. I'm now thinking I'm getting too old for all this stuff and I've lost my touch but before I jump in the Thames I thought a fresh head on a new day might be a good idea. OK, thinking cap on, hang on tight as it gets a bit techy from here on. I thought I'd take some readings on a good board to compare so starting with the lamps and then the reel pulses I saw that they were approx half speed?? OK, that explains why the reels run slow and the lamps are dim but why?????? Next step was to discover what was holding up either the bus or the interrupts. This is where my understanding gets a little hazy but I know from the docs that if IC12 sends a pulse out on pin7 (74LS138) then it can prevent NMI from occuring which controls the reels and multiplexer (lamps). Checking pin7 and there was a constant pulse. My notes state that in normal running there shouldn't be one so this is looking promising. What on earth is happening though to cause it? Another day gone and still no resolution so off to bed. Now most people count sheep jumping over gates but I see circuit boards and logic gates. Anyway in my dreams a voice said surely it has to be an input, perhaps a stuck gate on one of the input chips? Previously I'd already swapped out two of them trying to track down the reel sensors and the START switch and also IC37 (8255) thinking that might be it. Nope! So this is where we came in, trunks on and ready to walk down to the river. Before I go had I missed anything? That's when the old lightbulb lit up and I got all excited again. There is another input albeit it's not mentioned in the docs and also it appears on the diagram in the outputs section!! This is the DATA IN which goes to pin 13 on IC24, under normal running it should be HIGH but it was stuck LOW. It's fed via a 220K resistor and clamped HIGH by a 1K resistor to the 5v rail. On the DATA IN side it was indeed HIGH but LOW on the chip. I've no idea what caused that as I doubt whether anyone has a DATA pack connected. So it was out with the 8255 and in with a new one and checking the pulse back on IC12 pin 7 it came on for a second after starting to boot then went off. Whoopeee!! Reels now definitely running a lot faster and the lamps also brighter, what do you know the START button now works too. Definitely one for the Midibob notebook. Hmm, still no sound so it's out with the AY-3-8910 and in with a Yamaha YM2149 and bingo sound restored. Trouble is it's my only spare and prices on Ebay are ridiculous. If anyone wants to sell me some I might bite your arm off as long as they aren't Chinese of course, the chips not the seller. I think I deserve a few glasses of vino tonight.
    3 points
  13. In the MPS2 it's IC5 and 10, it definitely needs IC10 because as you said it controls the reel comms. Now I have found that IC5 isn't always needed and it depends on the game (some will run and some won't) so it could be the same in MPS1 (IC6)?
    2 points
  14. 1. There are 2 TMS9902, can the printer port one (IC6) be taken out and used for the reel comms (IC4) or will the MPS system error due to the missing chip. 2. This chip is used in several other computing systems, I can imagine a replacement would become popular. 3. The MPS uses it for reel comms, simple serial communications BUT it does multiplex TX/RX onto a single track. I wonder if a relatively simple hack can be made to just keep this comms running. I see TX/RX are combined after the TMS9902 and split with an inverter for the TMS7041 reel CPU. MAX232 to the rescue ???
    2 points
  15. Thnx Geronimo, got it partially working now. Screen shows something but not all. Reset button and clear meters button works. Cleaned up the battery moisture and repaired some lines. Replaced some components. All ic's are rebranded with specific codes wich makes repairing the board really hard. Programmer reads most of the logics but not all. I'm really getting stuck without the schematics Anyone familiar with this (really old) system?
    2 points
  16. What a week I've had, one MPS2 specifically. Usual symptoms of no boot which was eventually solved by swapping out all the 20 pin chips around the CPU. To add insult to injury IC10 had also failed (TMS9902) so unfortunately the user is going to have to source one from somewhere. One thing did seem odd, on switch on there was no sound and the diag sound test was missing? Firing up an alarm did sound but it was quiet and didn't sound very clean. After much time wasting I realised I should have put my Worzel Gummage fault finding head on instead of my swap it out first head!! So a few wasted hours of swapping out audio o/p and synth chips plus going down many a rabbit hole I ended up doing some more diagnostics. Basically the output of the LM380 IC3 (8) was sitting at around 1.5v. These chips should have approx half the supply voltage on pin 8 and the inputs (2 + 6) are floating, well they were on this board. First head scratcher, this board is a revision B and instead of pin 6 being connected to ground it has C70 (0.1uF) to ground. Not sure I've ever noticed this before but the diagrams only show rev A. Next thing I noticed was any slight wisp of breath directed around C12, 14 and 15 brought the sound back to normal and then off again as the voltage on IC3 (8) rose to 12v. In fact any moisture in this area would cause the output voltage to vary. I've had this before and suspected tracking due to a dirty board. So off came all the components in that top right hand corner and a good clean was carried out. Before re-assembly I thought I'd just do some checks to make sure all was good....and it wasn't!! Applying the Ohmeter to the board and checking IC3 (2) I was seeing approx 3M Ohms to ground and considering the track was open circuit at both ends that wasn't good. Not sure why I tried the next thing but I put the iron on the hole for C14 and after about half a second the resistance went down to about a couple of hundred Ohms. Oh dear. Removal of the iron and the resistance would quickly climb back to a few megs. So the board had gone conductive inside. I could hear Andrew96 in my head saying 'I told you so' After all the work I'd done I didn't want to write it off so I thought I'd try something. Cutting the track by the via from pin 2 and routing a patch wire to two axial caps in place of C14 & 15 stopped the leaking voltages getting in the audio chip. These were fixed in place with hot melt glue and with everything reassembled all was good.
    2 points
  17. What a bloomin shame about those roms and boards hopefully the person who took them might send you at least the roms. Did those parts disappear after the Rampage YT video (approx 2 weeks ago) or your own (approx 8 days ago) or do you think they were removed before that? Were the Cash or Nudge roms removed obvs Redrose has what looks like a working Cash or Nudge on his floor so maybe he could get those roms uploaded if yours are missing? (Just spotted Dave did a DX of C or N back in 21) so the roms shouldnt be a problem)
    2 points
  18. I posted that machine in the eletro club on facebook if you want to have a look on the comments regarding the mpu. Hear I'll save you the hassle.
    2 points
  19. Apparently got “permission” from The owner, and done so instantly it’d seem….🙄
    2 points
  20. 2 points
  21. Ha ha no way a very rare sight indeed !! well done 👍🏻 very very clever
    2 points
  22. I love the pcb tracks! work of art in themselves!
    2 points
  23. Here is the mpu.shame the wood has swelled.but it's good inside and solid.mpu was tested June 1985.
    2 points
  24. Lovely looking machine, never seen one of these before! Still looks like there's quite a bit of battery damage in the top left corner of the board (next to letter G) - you really need to clean that up and you will also find quite a few components in the area where the battery was are shot. Hopefully nothing too major though as it's obviously booting up. Can you take a few close-up pictures around the damaged area to see what's been attacked?
    1 point
  25. Maybe a good idea to start a new thread on this one and see what the response is?
    1 point
  26. I would have thought so Andrew, I am one of the lucky ones in need of some! I suppose it would depend on how many others require some! I suppose the situation will only get worse over the coming years!
    1 point
  27. I'd have loved it si but I already have a carfield and jist aint got the room .
    1 point
  28. NOW who is "making coin" from poor poor collectors!
    1 point
  29. When I first come across the conductive board problem it was in the PC92 reset circuit. when the board was nice and warm it booted, but when cold (like the next day) the reset meandered instead of switching cleanly. oh the reply's! no one believed me! one member even said "conductive my arse" lol and of course my newly designed replacement reset board was just a con to get people to buy something that wasn't needed as a clean and replacement transistors of the reset area was all that was needed...... hope they are eating humble pie now lol Paxolin does indeed go conductive over time mainly its the conditions they been stored in over time. some are perfect, but some can be really bad! The PC92 ones I had which was bad came from project coins workshop and was sold off as a job lot and most showed the symptom. weather this is what they could not fix so they was stored.... or the storage conditions had caused the problem with conductive boards we will never know! but it does seem I was the only one ever to have PC92 reset issues and only one other board outside of that job lot since lol
    1 point
  30. Who got this one? I would buy this if available?
    1 point
  31. Thanks guys for taking the time, as always it's appreciated.
    1 point
  32. Great to see some true classics on offer to play .
    1 point
  33. 1 point
  34. Permission was obtained and the machines were saved, A few were ransacked for parts beforehand though so will be useless without ROMs which is a real pity!
    1 point
  35. A massive thanks to Ed off here for taking a look at the rom program code to unblock the gamble on this great old mpu3 clubber .the three single bars dropped in on reeld 1,2&4 and it held so obviously I held them and the fourth bar dropped in .couldn't believe it but was over joyed .here is a clip of that jackpot .it stopped paying £6 short due to the tube sensor .
    1 point
  36. Cheers rich surr are
    1 point
  37. For me it’s not about the potential to win or any financial gain, it’s to connect with memories and nostalgia with playing these in the past. Not sure about the licensing or business model. Are the machines on old money and tokens? Is there an exception as they aren’t running legal tender and are they classed as amusements of some sort?
    1 point
  38. One fuse for lights had blown,so replaced.plugged in,it lights up,gives credits,when I press play it kind of worked but mainly first reel stops,middle reel is irrattic and keeps stop starting as if solenoid not engaging properly and third reel keeps spinning.it has operated payout solenoid but it also lockedc2p solenoid in while reels were spinning. So not right but trying. Hold and cancel work.
    1 point
  39. Certainly little bit of work Simon, but it’s achievable! Nice one!
    1 point
  40. Thank you for the fantastic layout.
    1 point
  41. 80s,I thought it was seventies maybe 1978 ish.interesting.
    1 point
  42. Pretty sure this one was early 80s Simon. 2p play, 5 games 10p and incorporated the later 50p for games and 40p change mech.. MPU controlled but Carfield had moved from direct drive reel motor, the bulb, lens and optic through the reel drums to a belt drive motor and wipers on this model. Although it seems the wipers were not used for long as they probably found out the reverse nudge with wipers is not the best idea so adapted to reel sensors on Frenzy. The MPU was bespoke to Carfield but whether they built it themselves or by order I can't be sure but usually mounted under the reel shelf so, Apart from the power supply there was a vast cavern of space in the bottom of the cabinet. Hopefully not too many problems to save it and the MPU is still operational, Possibly may need a reel strip to clean the wipers and studs as they needed to make just as good a contact as on electro machines but descent looking machine and they do look good with those big buttons.
    1 point
  43. An amazing coincidence - I got the ROM card from the operator who owned those machines at Keats!!
    1 point
  44. Yeah... there are voltage regulators used (ZN404) which drop out of tolerance when cold. It's a silver coloured small cylinder on top of the processor card and one on the main board. They also suffer from age (think I repaired your cpu card years ago-i would have fitted a new one). I'd watch the artwork on your monopoly 60 aswell in an outbuilding. That particular machine really suffers from peeling artwork
    1 point
  45. Good evening all, Well finally got hold of a Barcrest Hi Lights, my first Mpu2 as well. I am delighted. Came to me as a non runner, and it's taken a little bit of work to get running, but with the help of the Mecca folk's, it all came together!
    1 point
  46. Just completed a board which made me smile. Came in with the usual full service needed, so once that was done it was switch on time. Pretty much dead so checking the RESET which was good it was out with the RAM. With my spare test board it fired straight up and then using my new chip tester showed one of the RAM chips was knackered.👍 The other one was good and yes I did try it with another just to confirm it ran properly in the board. So now it was time to run through all the tests before going into the Cabaret machine for a soak test. First all triacs were firing, next all switches, sound working, alpha good, reels good......hmm no lamps! Inspected the board again and couldn't believe I didn't see this the first time. Looks like the plumber's been here! Once that was removed all the vias and the pads were missing on both sides. After a bit of patching, new rivets and lots of patience I arrived at this. With a new transistor in place all lamps were now correct.
    1 point
  47. Sometimes I think it must just be me and I'm being punished for a misdemeanour in an earlier life.
    1 point
  48. Hey all. I thought it was time for a long overdue update on this. I've been busy with work and family so have been limited with time to work on it. After looking at all the IC's under the microscope, pretty much all were showing some serious corrosion on the legs, along with some of the caps too. I eneded up replacing all caps and socketing all the IC's on the motherboard. The only ones i didn't replace were the RAM and the CPU itself. I also replaced all the transistors for the three motors and numerous ones for the lights as well, along with sorting out the sound issues by replacing the trimmer pot that controls it. After doing all that, i still had a problem with the Number 2 stepper motor binding up! Luckily i managed to find a replacement on ebay though, fitted it and it all worked ok. As you can see I still have a few lights to sort out, along with some cosmetic repairs to the cabinet. Annoying the stepper motor for reel 1 has now started to bind up in a similar way to the one I replaced on reel 2! The chances of finding another replacement being fairly low, I decided to strip the one that I had removed previously. I know a lot of people say they shouldn't be opened as they are difficult to assemble again, but I've managed to get it open and stripped it down pretty easily. I removed both the front and rear bearings and soaked them overnight in some oil in the hope that some of it would get inside. Unfortunately they seem pretty well sealed, and any effect is only very short-term. However I've managed to source some new ones, so as soon as they turn up i will fit them and rebuild the motor. I'll film it as I go and will post a video up here of it.
    1 point
  49. Would probably mean that your ndud started life as a original ndu stef which did have the round buttons the same as eachway nudger . Those ews bands must have been stuck down good and proper for the residues of the bands to remain on.the drums like that .reckon the mdm factory workers didnt enjoy peeling those bands off 😉
    1 point
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