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Faulty barcrest fruit machine


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Hi guys ive just picked up from someone's garage a barcrest cabinet 2002 extreme gaming booze cruise genius club fruit machine the owner said was working when they last used 2 year ago when you now plug in you hear a pop noise from the speaker and a whirling noise but nothing else lights up the only thing that lights up are some green led on the boards one flashes red twice after so many flashes im fully new so dont know anything at all about boards or anything but looking for any advice on what it could be what is wrong ?

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a 'please' or a 'thankyou' would be good! guys here help and are human and respond better to some manners, please bear in mind this is not a dedicated help desk! (free technial help R us) if you canno

leave the machine switched on for at least 8 hours it should charge the battery up after 8 hours check the voltage of the battery

(main board)check this battery voltage if not 3 volts then follow Andrew's instructions on old fruity projects 

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a 'please' or a 'thankyou' would be good! guys here help and are human and respond better to some manners, please bear in mind this is not a dedicated help desk! (free technial help R us) if you cannot take the time to count the green and red flashes then no fault code can be determined and everything is a guess.

 

good luck in your quest

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I would say your first step is to count those flashes, as that's the machine trying to tell you a fault code, And as Andrew has said without the code, it could be any thing, from your  pictures the first four green are the power supply status, so that one good sign, the next two one green and one red, will flash  the Barcrest fault code, first digit on the red and second on the green. you can then look it up and move a step closer to getting it up and running. so two red flashes and one green indicates fault code 21 ram test fail, and so on.

If the battery has leaked badly, with the MPU in that orientation you may have some major issues.  Have you looked or is it just a suspicion.

having the correct manual is a big help, and the site reasonably expects those that wish to avail themselves of downloads should make some sort of effort in supporting the upkeep of the site and the resource, rather than just dropping in taking what they need and moving on, meaning others supporting them while they are giving nothing in return.

good luck with you quest, i was there only a few months ago, but now enjoy a fully working machine, well almost.

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43 minutes ago, Markus19 said:

The red one next to it never seems to light up just the green turns red 

that's my error, not two leds but a single bi colour one, all the same it flashing fault code 2B optional real time clock failure, and looking at the pics I expect that what that RTC chip is. the MPU might be OK but the program card has the issues, there is a possibility it might have taken the MPU with it though, you will need the expertise of others with a better understanding of this program card, or look or a replacement.

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30 minutes ago, Markus19 said:

Thanks jocky if i bought a new program card i presume i would need a like for like program there is plenty the same on ebay but all diffrent games

the program card is game specific, it is the game, you can get a replacement but you would need to be able to swap the game rom's from your card to the replacement, not all program cards are equal, yours needs the real time clock, my quick on the draw didn't, the program card does not have a battery on mine, so its not as straight forward as it might seem, sorry to be the bearer of bad news, as your moving out of my comfort zone really on the internals of the program card types. I have chatted with an amusement engineer, he did actually say that swapping out the battery on some boards caused issue with the real time clocks, but was not forth coming on how to sort them, I don't know if its terminal or may just need specific bit of software to reset and reprogram the card.

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If the battery hasn't left a trail of destruction behind then you may be lucky enough to find that a replacement will get the machine working again. Carefully snip off the battery and take some clear photos of the area around it.

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looking at the pics, the damages is not really evident, when I used to do battery replacement, (not on these) we used to be able to keep the board live, so the memory voltages were kept on, we used to cut each legs, so the main body was free, then using an isolated soldering iron, and a pair of fine plyers we could melt the solder one leg at a time and remove each leg easily. then clean the board and holes, insert new battery and resolder ,  it looks like there is some spots on the clock chip, remove the chip (its in a socket) clean the legs, buzz out the continuity to its surrounding tracks, might as well give it a go, as its already dead, and so not much to loose, and it might, stress might all come back to life,  once the chip and battery is removed have a good look if you spot anything post a pic, maybe someone will know the issues, and go from there.

 

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Once again jocky thanks alot for your detailed reply 🙂 is it ok to spray with contact cleaner to clean the board up ?

Also if the batt is removed would it work with no battery or would i need a new one fitted before plugging the machine back in ?

 

Many thanks

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yes I did not word it well, remove the battery as described, remove the clk chip, gently prise up each end alternating as you lift it up, make sure you note the dot next to pin one, contact cleaner should be ok, isopropyl alcohol IPA, to clean any residue, then look for corroded or cracks in the track paths or the surface mount components, then pictures and if all is well new battery and reinstall the clk chip, and give it a go, no promises, but if it does not work, you not much worse off, all for a few hours work and a few pounds for a replacement battery, where the flip side is it all works.

 

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Your 'rubbing alcohol' would be better to use than contact cleaner which usually leaves an oily residue.  When fitting your new battery it's better to use wires and keep it off the circuit board.  This avoids any damage in the future if the battery leaks again.  Good luck.

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better if you can use an IPA with a higher concentration, 70% is fine for cuts and antiseptic, but cleaning circuits better to use the over 99%, less water content and evaporates faster to leave a clean surface. The wiring of the battery is a good mod to prevent it corroding the board next time it fails.

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