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Picked this up as completely non-working.

Following a message from MidiBob (absolute legend, thank you) I went back to basics. I checked the molex connector on the PSU and found that there was 0v where there should have been 12v. Swapped over to my spare and that gave me the required voltage.

Plugged everything into the MOBO, switched on - nothing!! Checked for the 12v to the resistor, nothing!!

Swapped over to my spare board (working last time it was in a machine), switched on - nothing!! Checked for the 12v to the resistor - nothing!!

Rechecked molex connector and 12v where it should be. Checked at the input pin on the mobo - nothing!!

Took off the power loom and checked for continuity, wafer connector pin 2 bad connection. Worked when I moved it to a certain position the went open circuit when I let go of it.

Connected all up and wedged the pin 2 with a match, switched on and booted!!

I'm going to have to play it properly this weekend as the original board was Rev 4 and my spare is Rev 7 so need to see what problems it will cause.

Really happy to have saved it from being broken up, it will be joining the rest of the family this weekend and vid will follow once it's in place.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, finally got round to putting the machine in my games room and filling it up. I think I've found out what the revision difference is on the mainboard.

In free play mode, the whole machine plays exactly as it should. Unfortunately once the back is closed it won't accept coins. I've tried old and new of all denominations and swapped the mech (MS111) for a known good one.

Now I'm stumped.

Any ideas please guys?

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9 hours ago, scoodyemu said:

Well, finally got round to putting the machine in my games room and filling it up. I think I've found out what the revision difference is on the mainboard.

In free play mode, the whole machine plays exactly as it should. Unfortunately once the back is closed it won't accept coins. I've tried old and new of all denominations and swapped the mech (MS111) for a known good one.

Now I'm stumped.

Any ideas please guys?

Does it work in coin test? If it does I'll be shocked. It will be called "Lock out test". Upon entering all coins will be locked out. There should be several buttons flashing, pressing each one will enable a different coin.

Edited by Player
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On 10/28/2020 at 7:32 AM, Player said:

Does it work in coin test? If it does I'll be shocked. It will be called "Lock out test". Upon entering all coins will be locked out. There should be several buttons flashing, pressing each one will enable a different coin.

Morning John,

Tried the lockout test and it still wouldn't accept the coins.

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That's actually a good thing. These boards can do weird things if the software isn't compatible with the board revision. I would just try another acceptor, any should work accepting coins wise.

Edited by Player
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51 minutes ago, Player said:

That's actually a good thing. These boards can do weird things if the software isn't compatible with the board revision. I would just try another acceptor, any should work accepting coins wise.

Thanks John, Nick has suggested trying a different model of acceptor so I'll pull one from one of my other machines tonight.

I can't help but feel I'm close to having the machine working.

Fingers crossed.

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6 hours ago, scoodyemu said:

Thanks John, Nick has suggested trying a different model of acceptor so I'll pull one from one of my other machines tonight.

I can't help but feel I'm close to having the machine working.

Fingers crossed.

You can always go down the route of faking an acceptor. This can be done if you try another acceptor and still doesn't work. Could be a couple of issues.

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On 10/30/2020 at 4:23 PM, Player said:

You can always go down the route of faking an acceptor. This can be done if you try another acceptor and still doesn't work. Could be a couple of issues.

OK tried another acceptor and still nothing, I know that at least 2 of these are working as I've tried them in another machine.

How can you fake an acceptor John please?

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Ok so if theres no ground going to the inhibit pin the voltage will be "floating". In other words not properly grounded. The diagram below shows the transistor connected to the inhibit line with no groud. The orange represents the "floating" state.

image.thumb.png.456b4ab765a17c0641c863f205d1f50f.png

When the machine wants to accept a coin the transistor switches ground to the inhibit pin like below.

image.thumb.png.61951937ad0fdaa0cf4727e32d444589.png#

Go to lockout test, put onto DC, put the red probe on +12v and then the black on the lockout pin you want to test, thenwhen you press the correct button for that coin it should read 12v.

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Thank you so much for that John.

Following your earlier post I obviously had no idea what to to do so thought I would apply a bit of logic to the problem.

I figured that the S10 mech (token) would be the easiest as I could press the microswitch that an accepted coin would trigger. I removed the mech and the machine showed 2 credits every time I pressed it. To my inexperienced brain that told me that the board was accepting signals for accepted coins. I put one of my 20p tokens through the removed mech on my bench and it passed straight through. I tried the token into the slot at the front of the machine and it wouldn't pass through. Looking inside the machine I couldn't see anything obvious so I unscrewed the plates that directed the tokens into the S10 mech. It was stuffed full of tokens, it must have jammed at some point and the coins had all backed up.

Long story short, now the mech is cleared the machine works as it should. Just goes to show how simple a solution can be without having to dig deeply.

The machine is in really good condition so I am going to revert it back to older coinage to keep it as original as possible.

I will post a video at some point of this week.

 

Bob, Nick and John, thanks guys, you are brilliant.

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