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Matty 12345

Eachway shuffle deluxe

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Hi all.

I'm a new member here and will be cleaning and hopefully repairing my old eachway shuffle. She's been in dry storage for about 10 years in my parents garage, and I've only recently got space to have her back.

 

As you will see from the pics, she needs a bit of a clean up and some minor attention to the wood, but compared to the other member who is currently restoring his, I think I definitely got lucky in terms of the cabinet itself. Apart from the reel bands and the odd scuff here and there, she's not looking too bad considering her age.

When I last played her she was all physically working , although there was some sort of issue with the logic where it would show a different number of nudges to what you actually had.

Once I've cleaned her up and airdusted all the electrics etc, would it be adviseable to plug her in and see what happens? Is there anything I should be wary about, or anything that needs checking doing before I power her up?

Also, all 3 reels move  but 2 of them feel quite stiff. What is the best lubricant to apply to them, and how and should I apply it with them still assembled or do they need to be stripped down?

My knowledge of fruit machines is limited, but I do have a fair bit of mechanical experience, and also a fairly good understanding of basic electronics. Hopefully with the help of you guys I can get her up and running again soon.

Sorry for the huge essay and multiple questions already. Cheers in advance.

Matty.

 

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Good to see you putting some love into this one, one great machine! 

I would imagine some very light lube will be okay, just don’t go over doing it, these motors are a twat to play with! I would imagine that so long the machine is warm and dry for a period of time, you shouldn’t do to much damage, maybe check voltages fro the psu first, Just to be safe. If it’s going to run it will, if not a board repair awaits!

You should get all the answers here, as the guys on here are very helpful.

Good luck 👍👍

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Hi Mike. Thanks for the reply.

So far I've removed the power supply and all the wiring from the bottom shelf, cleaned everything up and then reinstalled it all.

Hopefully by the end of today, I will have had chance to give the rest of the machine the same treatment, and she'll be ready to plug in and see if she fires up.

 

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So I plugged her in today and she fired up. Reels one and 3 working pretty well, but reel 2 seems to be sticking/taking half steps most of the time.

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Does that reel feel tighter to turn than the other 2 with power off?

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2 minutes ago, netdent said:

Does that reel feel tighter to turn than the other 2 with power off?

Yeah it does. Not a lot tighter but definitely a bit.

Here is a vid during actual play.

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I suppose it's not hitting anything stopping it spinning, a bad drive transistor can also cause this, but if the reel is stiff it might well be a bad motor

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Posted (edited)

No, the reel is nice and straight and the plastic tab passes perfectly through the opto sensor slot.

I was considering desoldering the connections for that reel and one of the working ones, (from Plug one) and then swapping the wiring around and seeing if the fault moves to the other reel, that way narrowing down if it's the board or the motor.

Edited by Matty 12345

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I took the mini logic board out today, as there are some issues with the nudge lamps. Some don't work at all and others light when they shouldn't.

Well I think i may have found the issue. Some serious oxidisation on the sn74 DIPs!

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your going great guns , if you dont have it already there is a eachway shuffle manual in the downloads section of this forum 

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Thanks Riche,  I think it's going to take me a while, but hopefully i'll be able to work my way through and get her sorted eventually. 

Tbh just the thought of soldering on such an old board gives me a bit of anxiety, but i have done a bit of soldering in my time so i'm sure i'll be ok.  At least it's only the mini logic board rather than then main board to start with, lol.

Thanks for the heads up about the manual,  I aready downloaded a copy the other day.  There's a lot of very interesting stuff in that section!  I kept getting sidetracked looking at manuals for other things, lol.

 

 

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Best of luck with this matty. Try and avoid too much heat as those sru boards are notorious for the solder pads coming up with the chip legs .

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If you going to change that IC snip the legs right where they go into the chip with good cutters and pull the legs one by one to save the board

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That's what i do too ronnie .a bit easier to get each pin out individually 

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On 8/18/2020 at 4:29 AM, sulzerned said:

Best of luck with this matty. Try and avoid too much heat as those sru boards are notorious for the solder pads coming up with the chip legs .

 

On 8/18/2020 at 8:45 AM, netdent said:

If you going to change that IC snip the legs right where they go into the chip with good cutters and pull the legs one by one to save the board

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the advice and the heads up on the boards.

I've got a temp contolled solder station, so i'll keep the temps as low as I can and take it really easy with it.  I have removed and replaced a few IC's before, but only on fairly modern boards, not on stuff that was manufactured when I was still in nappies, lol

 

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too hot and the print lifts away, too low heat and you pull out the through holes!  about 380 deg C works well on old solder

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One little tip that I find works well is to resolder the pins first as the good solder mixes with the old contaminated stuff, then use the sucker. Normally comes out clean every time. Also plenty of flux, top and bottom.

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Posted (edited)
On 8/20/2020 at 9:29 AM, Andrew96_ said:

too hot and the print lifts away, too low heat and you pull out the through holes!  about 380 deg C works well on old solder

Brilliant, thanks Andrew, 380C it is! :)

 

On 8/20/2020 at 12:26 PM, midibob said:

One little tip that I find works well is to resolder the pins first as the good solder mixes with the old contaminated stuff, then use the sucker. Normally comes out clean every time. Also plenty of flux, top and bottom.

Lovely, I'll definitely make sure to do that too. Thks for the tips Bob, much appreciated.

I will make sure to take some pics of how I get on, although it will probably be next week by the time I get the IC's and a chance to do it.

Cheers guys, thks again.

Edited by Matty 12345

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Hi Matty,

my Eachway suffered with attract lights out and weird sequencing but once i replaced this chip all was good 🙂

Good luck with your project 

 

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Hey Matty,

if you go down the reel lubrication route I was given some advice many moons ago that if you peel the label off the motor you can spray some lube directly into the reel motor,  leave it  on its side overnight to give it a chance to get thoroughly into all the parts of the mech,  instead of completely dismantling the motor itself 

I have done this and it made a difference you will of course have to re-glue the sticker back on or in my case i placed a new piece of electrical tape over the aperture.

 

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Hi Matt, 

great post thanks for sharing, will look forward to seeing you get her up and running once again 🙏🏻

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Hey guys, apologies for the lack of updates. I've had a busy couple of months and haven't had much free time to work on her lately, however the last couple of days I've finally had time to work on the mini logic board.

The majority of the nudge lights were lighting in the wrong sequence (for example 10 nudges would show as 4, and 9 nudges as 2).  I'm pretty sure the fault was caused by a seriously corroded pin on the  "A" input of the LS138, ( the one Matrixnet UK circled in his reply above),  however all 4 of the IC's on that board were showing serious corrosion, so i decided to replace the lot.

 I managed to get all of them out without any damage to the board, and have installed sockets ready for the new IC's. I haven't had chance to test it in the machine yet as I still have the reel unit and motherboard removed, however all the sockets test fine with the multimeter and I'm very happy with how it went. Thanks very much for all the advice on tempertures and removal tips.

Next up are the sound issues, (which I'm pretty sure is due to the fact that the capacitor right next to the IC responsible for the sound, has leaked and needs replacing)

 

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On 8/24/2020 at 9:48 AM, matrixnetuk said:

Hey Matty,

if you go down the reel lubrication route I was given some advice many moons ago that if you peel the label off the motor you can spray some lube directly into the reel motor,  leave it  on its side overnight to give it a chance to get thoroughly into all the parts of the mech,  instead of completely dismantling the motor itself 

I have done this and it made a difference you will of course have to re-glue the sticker back on or in my case i placed a new piece of electrical tape over the aperture.

 

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Thanks for the suggestion Matrixnet, if i'd seen it earlier then I would have tried some of that brand, but i ended up getting some "super lube" from the USA. It came recommended to me from someone who works on a lot of old pinball machines. He said he has used it on all kind of motors with good results, so I shall use the label removal technique and see how it goes.

 

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 Hey matt Super lube looks good but always had good results from the pro power electronical contact spray. How much was the super lube ?

Can you let us know how you get on with the sound issues with pics as I have a board with no sound too .could be the main 566 chip as well .

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