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MattyL

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MattyL last won the day on January 16

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About MattyL

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    Old Fruity Fruitcake

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    Fruit machines

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  1. (I've only done one scorpion 1... so far 🙂) The big heat sync- it's not a transistor screwed to it, it's the 5v regulator. The box Capacitors seem ok to, me I took them off and tested them to be sure in the battery area. The small dielectric caps in the audio area were not good on my board. I'm finding the wiring loom contacts the most time consuming to sort out... it's best to clean up every pin on the mpu while you have the board out... and read Bobs thread it's invaluable 😎
  2. MattyL

    The Simpsons Beer Guide not fully powering up

    The Epoch main board is the heart of that machine and will be a ballache to replace so here's a few more tips- Keep it in an antistatic bag if your transporting it. Keep it dark- the game data on the Eproms is erasable by UV light so keep it out of sunlight The alkaline battery leakage needs neutralizing or it will keep eating away for years. An epoch board can fit in a small container flat and you can tip some IP-alchol on it and leave it partially submerged for 10-15 mins. That will get under everything and kill off most of the rot on contact. Leave it for a good 12hours to dry somewhere safe. Check it now and again in the future. You can do this as many times as you like. If you do all that with minimal tampering afterwards it should run for years 😎 People tend to neglect them and get highly frustrated when they stop working so look after it.
  3. MattyL

    System 5 JPM Diagram

    Cool I didn't realise these were around. Thanks. (Still looking for a damaged board if anyone has one)
  4. MattyL

    The Simpsons Beer Guide not fully powering up

    Nice work, I was hoping that would be ok. That's a result being a good board in there. You really need to desolder the battery and neutralise the area or it will destroy it in no time. If you do there's no reason it won't keep running for years. Andrew might be able to help but I think the vsync in the power supply that was missing helps to sync the all boards on whatever hertz range it runs at through the power loom rather than the serial cable. Thats the best I can come up with so far 🙂 For the button check the wiring your looking at the inner switch wiring and you can compare it to the next button. The outter two wires are for the lamp in the button and not important.. Also check the next button is correctly wired too. If it's all ok I'll tell you where to look next 😎
  5. MattyL

    Scorpion 1 info?

    Just got to get the machine internally to 100% next. There was also vibrating distortion coming from the speaker... but I'm 20p richer than I was before 😂
  6. MattyL

    Scorpion 1 info?

    Finally picked up a scorp1 to use as a test machine last week. Here's the first Scorp1 repair completed: Fairly light damage, the AY8910 did not need to come off but i re'did most of the audio(scraped all the bubbling off). Also fitted new Electrolytic caps everywhere on the board. I think because the Audio caps were new there was short delay for them to take charge so the first few seconds there was nothing through then the sound seem to 'tune in' which I was thrilled with 😎 20201009_172058.mp4
  7. MattyL

    The Simpsons Beer Guide not fully powering up

    Yeah if it beeps it's usually good enough... seems like your meter is picking up a tiny bit of resistance. What value is it 0.5 ohms? That pin needs to receive a solid 5v or the board won't work... thats probably getting a bit hard to measure yourself. Your board has low damage to the copper traces (usually these are totalled) but it could still be faulty in a number of ways as Andrew said there's corrosion there so cpu/transistors etc could be faulty. I'm still thinking to try a power supply first and hope you get lucky on that board personally. There's alot of people get to this stage with Epochs and get frustrated.
  8. MattyL

    The Simpsons Beer Guide not fully powering up

    Those are dip switches which are for individual game config options (single/multicoin play, demo mode, note acceptor fitted etc). None of which will effect the reset of the board...sadly 🙂
  9. MattyL

    The Simpsons Beer Guide not fully powering up

    Ok so hold one of the meter probes of the center pin of Q3 and then carefully brush the other probe on the pins of the large Actel chip on the right side. It's the second pin down from the top. This is probably the most likely trace to fail and initially kills all Epochs. Be very gentle with your meter and try it a few times.
  10. MattyL

    The Simpsons Beer Guide not fully powering up

    Hi mate there's a few tiny holes next to the battery and a capacitor. If the Rot gets down it-its enough to kill the board looking at it though it's not gone through to the back. I'll give you the test to test that track. I'm still thinking try a psu first. Epoch psu's are all usually noisy and it's the case rattling. It reminds me of a loud aquarium pump noise 🙂 Externally the case looks pretty ropey.
  11. MattyL

    The Simpsons Beer Guide not fully powering up

    I think with the v sync out on the psu, the mpu will just keep reseting. Yours isn't poping out of reset at all? I would still try a power supply first though. Could do with a closer picture of the mpu here in the red circle. If you have a multimeter check continuity to the transistor pin/resistor on the blue dots. The tiniest amount of rot can take an epoch down but they can still make good boards. All boards start off with only one trace broken. I'm happy to test the main board if you post it(recorded). I wouldnt recommend you buy any untested Epoch especially with battery damage. They're all going to be more damaged than your own. As for the for the psu. The Facebook groups are the best place to ask. But try to sus out someone Legit 🤣🙂 around about £30-40
  12. Checked some old notes and I have this- I had this psu in my scorp4 eclipse cabinets which your type is. (Ive not got one anymore to check) Sanken Sps040h (eclipse cab) Pin outputs1 a.c. sync2 +53 12v4 12v5 12v6 12v7 12v8 12v9 rtn10 rtn11 rtn12 rtn I think on the GSK170ha the first output two pins are- 1. 12v 2. 12v I hope your loom matches up with the gsk170ha outputs 😬
  13. Hi what Psu's are you using? There's two types for scorp4's. One or two of the 12v supplies are different. I know your looking for lamp voltages but scorp4 Is very fault sensitive. So thought this is worth a mention. It's been a while but I think in the eclipse cab (scorp4/5psu) pin one should be a v sync or something like that. Where as the Smiley cabinet type outputs 12v on that pin. I can't remember which one is which off the top of my head. Is there a voltage output sticker on the psu, and one of the cab while you're there. This might not be your fault but I'd defo have a look. Hope that helps
  14. MattyL

    King of the Swingers £150/£250 Dx's

    Stunning job 😎
  15. MattyL

    Connector type?

    It's a.....Global Scorp1 John so I don't know on the colours. That's handy to know one should be an earth. They said it's been fine for years but recently got moved into a garage so presumably just started leaking. The sound is dead not even a power pop.
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