Jump to content


Mecca Supporters 2021
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Donations

    10.00 GBP 

MattyL last won the day on December 21 2020

MattyL had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

431 Excellent


About MattyL

  • Rank
    Old Fruity Fruitcake


  • Are You A Spambot Again?
  • Are You a Spambot ?
    Fruit machines

Recent Profile Visitors

1858 profile views
  1. Awesome, ok some tips to help you- if you can braid out the solder in the vias and come through the back of the board with the repair wire through the via... loop the spool around a connector so you can pull the wire tight on top which helps alot. In the pics I was using 0.125mm wire on that one... which sounds crazy but it's a compact board so if you go thin on the wire you get more space inbetween your wires...which helps... over 0.2mm will be very difficult. I would do all... yes all! the vias in the the area of the broken one. They might not have gone now but I've learned the hard way
  2. Yes it should connect to the via there 100%. The battery rot has penetrated and eaten away were the solder mask ends where it meets the annuala ring of the via. That's a vulnerable spot on all boards. I'm actually pleased for you that there's at least one broken trace as there's a hope a light repair might sort get it running. How about the other one I circled in Red still looks broken or barely hanging on by a thread. 10/10 on the clean up job and being thorough 👌 I agree it's promising in terms of damage, had you left it on the shelf for a few months with active rot like that it wo
  3. Nice work it's cleaned up alright. Do you have a multimeter...? I've circled two areas in red where the trace meets the via (hole) they look like they could be potential breaks there. The yellow areas looks like it has continuity but could end up going (these are the ones to repair as they can ping any time) The blue ares look damaged but not too bad. Also the via where the solder has fallen out you can check with a meter from one side of the board to the other as the Rot gets in and eats the copper in the middle. None of that is knocking your board mate it's a nice clean
  4. I would because it could happen to other people and they will get sold on oneday
  5. Regarding the mpu4 I have one that has a tiny buzz that's annoying I'd love to try the sense pot out next time I get the machine out 🤣
  6. I want to help with this board but I have litterally so much on right now mate. As warlord says it needs cleaning off with a fiberglass pen and rinsing down with IPA. I can tell by the colour of the Rot there its really fresh and aggressive so in a few months it might be double the damage. If you scrape it back to bare copper (don't use sandpaper or vinegar plz) I'll offer to have a look in about 4 months. I'll do the standard trace repairs and have a look under the sockets. There are no schematics for impact 3 so if there's too many other problems with it I'll have to leave it there (can't e
  7. Hi does anyone have any blue simpsons reel or bands? I'm looking for reels 1-3. I flat packed my machine ages ago but can't find the reels anywhere. The £1 epoch hopper on the Apollo cabinet tray wouldn't hurt either. Thanks
  8. Sounds like a scorp2/4 DOT matrix board. These make good little test boards for the 68B09P CPU if you have a machine that uses the DOT display.
  9. Hi, yeah apologies ive got too much on to help with boards at the moment with baby no2 just here and im also building more storage/workshop. The stealth card you showed me earlier was that what's up doc? My whats up doc that I've got running in the last few months is scorp1 tech. I can possibly help with that in a few months it didn't look bad.
  10. That board looks really nice but it might not be the the original. If there's been a bad one in there before the contacts in the switch plug could be cream crackered. Plugs sometimes act like a shelf a catch all the falling vapour.
  11. Hi, the hopper board underneath some metal security is usually reliable but check the all the wiring. Tracing the fault to the Mpu, the hopper wiring is mostly on the AUX interfaces Loom at the top. It all goes to the area circled and seems to be from the Large IC (think its something like 70** from memory). From that large IC anywhere back to the loom connector is there area id start checking...is it reseting or running with other faults? There's no schematic for Impact or Impact3 unfortunately so it's difficult to narrow down any more than that... I'd still double check
  12. It's an agitator so you still might need solvent cleaners to break stuff down. Its not been mentioned yet on old boards but it might take off the silkscreen (like mpu4). I'd also love to try one on fruity boards so let me know how it goes 🙂 I do this at the moment, seal the lid on and it's soaking in a bottle of 99% ipa. It's a major fire hazard so it stays out side. Might seem wasteful but you can drain it back into the bottle you loose about 20% per bath which is probably double what you'd tip on a board. I spend forever cleaning up boards so it will be good to know what everyone else d
  13. You missed it all, if you don't understand electronics (which is totally fine btw). You're missing all the diagnosis and looking for something simple. Eg Replace component X, clean up, reseat the pic, blow into the connector... it's not that simple. There are problems with the Resonator circuit to the pic/RTC, when then the power is off and its on the +vbattery supply. Probably due to battery damage to the components and potentially pcb traces. That's Andrews help and it's great, its more than enough to work with(I got it).... even if it's something slightly different on yours you can sti
  14. Andrew has given a load of knowledge and information of the whole area of the game card and the problem. Nobody else has contributed anything. There's enough to take in and have a think about. If I ever come across this prob I'll be coming back to this thread and have a crack myself. I've only skim read this thread a few times but it sounds like the area that's problematic is the resonator circuit to the rtc/pic when the powers off.... that's enough information lol? Obviously if your an engineer there's no end to people's problems there's no end to people want to make £££. How many people
  15. Bump. Decent dollar paid or have some boards to swap Thanks
  • Create New...