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dougald

maygay m1b board problem

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hi all- first time for me to ask something technical so here goes

 

went to power my machine up this morning for a play and no power. went and checked fuses in power supply and aok, tried another power lead and still nowt

 

had a look at the board and around by the battery a couple of the yellow pots (numbered D104K 6XL) looks to have melted and just wondering if this is the problem and if so how much would it cost to be repaired as everything was fine with the machine yesturday and was playing on it for a good couple of hrs.

 

Many thanks,

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Hiya, welcome.

 

Could well be the issue but it was probably all started off by the battery leaking. get the battery off asap, clean the board by soaking in vinegar, rinse well, and give a few days to dry completely (hair dryer would also be handy too) Then replace any components that are dodgy/damaged/look iffy. Pic or 2 of the area around the battery would be handy. If you cant post pics yet, email them to me at vinnyminer@o2.co.uk and i'll take a look and post them for you

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Hiya, welcome.

 

Could well be the issue but it was probably all started off by the battery leaking. get the battery off asap, clean the board by soaking in vinegar, rinse well, and give a few days to dry completely (hair dryer would also be handy too) Then replace any components that are dodgy/damaged/look iffy. Pic or 2 of the area around the battery would be handy. If you cant post pics yet, email them to me at vinnyminer@o2.co.uk and i'll take a look and post them for you

 

hi vinny, thanks for the quick reply - virtually a brand new battery is on the board a few pics of what it looks like attatched, many thanks

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The corner of C59 is melted because the clumsy twat who changed the battery caught it with the soldering iron. They haven't bothered to clean up the battery leakage either, and that's what's causing yor problem.

 

Look at the green pins on U6 :eek:

Edited by CanonMan

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thanks for you help on this guys - just noticed as well on the power supply pins 2 of them are black, would that of made any difference

 

other than what i've looked at with fuses and looms on the machine everything else seams to be ok

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check your power connector for the board if the pins are discolored it might mean that your connector sockets might need replacing due to overheating

i'd also remove the battery and then check all the tracks that are around the battery area for continuity as some do look as if they have been discolored from the battery leaking at some stage

on power up what lights show on the board if any?

Edited by Disco

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when powered up last night all lights came on as usual for bootup but today none at all not even a flicker

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have you got another power supply you can try in the machine

if not can you check with a meter if there is any voltages coming out of the p/s, if you have'nt at all then it's a possablity that you p/s has gone

a circuit diagram can be found in downloads if you have not already got one

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just put board back in to see - wired everything back onto the board and as i put power supply cable back on led l8 lit up - havn't power up just as of yet as don't won't to do any more damage just in case

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hmmmmmmmmmmm - put it back together and run it for a min it blew a 3 and 5 amp in mains but did run on a 13 amp everything powered up and lit up put money in and played and paid out but no sound at all - took card out to see if anything on sound board but aok - very strange indeed

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The last two pins to the right on the power supply port often burn out.

 

The two black wires as you have mentioned cause the last two pins to burn. This will also happen to reel one (the first pin on the stepper motors port).

 

Very common. On many of my machines (I run around 30 Maygays 40-50 hours a week) I have replaced the two said pins.

 

A little tip is to NEVER run the power supply on 240v, but run it on 220v. This is also tru with ANY machine. Not only does it lengthen the life of you machine but helps to prevent these burnouts.

 

The 'Quick Fix' I would suggest would be scrape away the burnout on the pins, then clean them up, then it should be fine. However do not continue to run your power supply on 240v. Turn it upside down and move the plug from 240 to 220v.

 

Maygay's most common fault is this.

 

If it persists just replace the two pins and the connector in the plastic plug.

 

All the best,

 

Dave

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Hi guys - just an update to say thanks for every1's help.

 

Changed psu to 220v and doused the board in vinegar, washed off and dried.

 

Powered everything back up and no problems.

 

Nice to know that there are people out there willing to help out and about time i started learning a thing or 2 myself on these matters.

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hmmmmmmmmmmm - put it back together and run it for a min it blew a 3 and 5 amp in mains but did run on a 13 amp

 

 

Just a wee note - NEVER run a higher rating of fuse than 3amp in a mains plug for a fruit machine, the fuse is blowing for a reason and increasing its rating to avoid fault puts you at serious risk of damage to machine or worst case an electrical fire!

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A lot of older fruit machines DO need a 13amp mains fuse. The torodial transformers produce a large in rush on intitial power up and have the ability to blow a 3 or 5 amp fuse. New machines with more electronic based psu can usually run fine on a 5 amp.

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hmmmm! learn a new thing every day.

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Just a wee note - NEVER run a higher rating of fuse than 3amp in a mains plug for a fruit machine, the fuse is blowing for a reason and increasing its rating to avoid fault puts you at serious risk of damage to machine or worst case an electrical fire!

 

Most ready-made IEC leads come with a 5 amp fuse fitted, some made with thicker cable come with a 10 amp fuse fitted.

 

As the guy who did our "Electrically Competent Person's" training at work once said, the fuse in the mains plug is only there to protect the mains lead in reality, as pretty-much all electrical appliances have an interal (or sometimes externally accessible) fuse to protect the appliance itself.

 

Oh, and before anyone says it, I had to do the ECP training at work to keep the Health and Safety mob happy. Didn't really need it as I've been pissing about with electronics/electrical gear since I was about 8 years old :lol:

Edited by CanonMan

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Its for the same reason you will find a 13amp in your fridge or freezer plug. The compressor only needs about 1 or 2 amps when running but when the stat cuts the motor in and out there can be a high load spike when switched, can be up to 10 or 11 amp!

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A lot of older fruit machines DO need a 13amp mains fuse. The torodial transformers produce a large in rush on intitial power up and have the ability to blow a 3 or 5 amp fuse. New machines with more electronic based psu can usually run fine on a 5 amp.

For what it's worth, I run all my (80's machines) with a 5amp fuse and have never had any problems (at the plug) but none of them have a torodial core - all laminated steel I think. You learn something new ... had not heard of torodial transformers ... looked it up - and now I do, thanks :)

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its where the transformer core is circular and not an H or L core or the like. They do build up a massive amount of EMF as they first take a voltage.

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