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Ok my first ever solder joint to a PCB. Solder added to back traic to fix S616 ground. Note that the front battery pads are corroded.

1 Flaw with this joint @Ben Moore try and guess with it is. 45A8B720-17AB-4F9A-BD5A-D081A498EA83.thumb.png.bc82eda2033e03ba35caf39a02eea74c.png

A833222E-EDEF-432D-9487-1585898D1EA2.png

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9D5F66AE-3143-4E73-A410-96EC9AD1393F.thumb.png.ae5aa006f7f2c859e2115146b047dbaf.png

I purposely used thick wire for this one, 1 mistake was to not sand down the corrosion. So it ate the wire and broke off over time. Believe me that was a strong joint at one point,

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1 minute ago, BarcrestPlayers said:

Ok my first ever solder joint to a PCB. Solder added to back traic to fix S616 ground. Note that the front battery pads are corroded.

1 Flaw with this joint @Ben Moore try and guess with it is. 45A8B720-17AB-4F9A-BD5A-D081A498EA83.thumb.png.bc82eda2033e03ba35caf39a02eea74c.png

A833222E-EDEF-432D-9487-1585898D1EA2.png

Not enough solder mabye and the red wire doesn't look attached 

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Epoch repair, quite a easy repair to be fair. Caps replaced and corrosion stopping the back traic were repaired. No Mircoscope nothing fancy. Works till this day.

1A8DDB19-8D1B-4F47-8EF6-9B048484A3CE.jpeg

70EA2A60-70AA-4FFF-946E-72556201019F.jpeg

3ADF133E-EFAC-4248-83C5-91087A1138A7.jpeg

7466C08F-BE6B-4193-847F-FABA7801A6FE.jpeg

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1 minute ago, BarcrestPlayers said:

9D5F66AE-3143-4E73-A410-96EC9AD1393F.thumb.png.ae5aa006f7f2c859e2115146b047dbaf.png

I purposely used thick wire for this one, 1 mistake was to not sand down the corrosion. So it ate the wire and broke off over time. Believe me that was a strong joint at one point,

Oh ok mine didn't have any corrosion so they shouldn't happen

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1 minute ago, Ben Moore said:

Not enough solder mabye and the red wire doesn't look attached 

Correct red wire to the traic broke off, I should of connected to JP1

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Just now, BarcrestPlayers said:

Correct red wire to the traic broke off, I should of connected to JP1

Luckily there was no corrosion or past solder on mine so should hold strong 

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Just now, Ben Moore said:

Luckily there was no corrosion or past solder on mine so should hold strong 

On the epoch the battery pad corrosion will probably break it off

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Just so folks know I done suffer from mild hand tremors so it was good I actually manged to do it at all

Just to add not sure what the person who reacted with a laughing face fells is funny

Edited by Ben Moore
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Hi Ben as previously mentioned you should use leaded solder... and you idealy need an iron you can control the temperature. 340-370'c. Lead free the melting point is hotter.

If you don't you will lift tracks and pads on your epoch boards more easily. So be careful.

I learned in reverse by desoldering components with a pump and rosin-flux on scrap boards

Top effort though 😎

Edited by MattyL
Beers last night
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3 minutes ago, MattyL said:

Hi Ben as previously mentioned you should use lead free solder... and you idealy need an iron you can control the temperature. 340-370'c. Lead free the melting point is hotter.

If you don't you will lift tracks and pads on your epoch boards more easily. So be careful.

I learned in reverse by desoldering components with a pump and rosin-flux on scrap boards

Top effort though 😎

Typo?

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6 minutes ago, MattyL said:

Hi Ben as previously mentioned you should use lead free solder... and you idealy need an iron you can control the temperature. 340-370'c. Lead free the melting point is hotter.

If you don't you will lift tracks and pads on your epoch boards more easily. So be careful.

I learned in reverse by desoldering components with a pump and rosin-flux on scrap boards

Top effort though 😎

Ok thank you it seems to be fine my epoch one for now so fingers crossed 

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7 minutes ago, BarcrestPlayers said:

Typo?

Yeah brain off lol

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wish i had a fruit machine to fix 

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7 minutes ago, riche100 said:

wish i had a fruit machine to fix 

Oh do sod off, you're fooling nobody but yourself. 

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3 hours ago, Ben Moore said:

Just so folks know I done suffer from mild hand tremors so it was good I actually manged to do it at all

Just to add not sure what the person who reacted with a laughing face fells is funny

Come on guys,hand bags down so you can hold the soldering iron lol.

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53 minutes ago, warlord said:

Come on guys,hand bags down so you can hold the soldering iron lol.

Yep made sure to put my handbag down lol for a first attempt I didn't think it was too bad but will make sure to consider improvements for next time people have given 

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this is my work recently, firstly a broken scraped board for a cnc machine

IMG_3705.jpg.a563528128ac071d83dbc4ee2559fbcb.jpg

 

and this is AFTER all the work in the triac transistors area on one of cyberbobs mpu4 boards

 

IMG_3717.jpg.9fca43666f7b40cb99dc542a64b51d94.jpg

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My soldering has to be good, I have had to get IPC certificates for rework and soldering as work on aircraft pcb's for a living,  it has to be inspected too by another technician, but if you aim for it looking like all the other joints and cannot tell the difference between your soldering and the other original  joints then its known as 'target' and is good! My soldering has to be to IPC class 3 standards (the highest standard) but fruit machine boards would be classed as class 1 so as long as it works its good!

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9 minutes ago, Andrew96_ said:

My soldering has to be good, I have had to get IPC certificates for rework and soldering as work on aircraft pcb's for a living,  it has to be inspected too by another technician, but if you aim for it looking like all the other joints and cannot tell the difference between your soldering and the other original  joints then its known as 'target' and is good! My soldering has to be to IPC class 3 standards (the highest standard) but fruit machine boards would be classed as class 1 so as long as it works its good!

Yeah the epoch one seems to work not sure about the maygay m1 as still testing that weird question do you work with both lead and lead free solder then

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I've worked in places that repaired boards that used both lead-free and leaded solder, so there had to be two identical soldering rework stations to avoid cross contamination. You can imagine the trouble caused when somebody took an old board with lead-free solder to the wrong rework station....

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1 hour ago, CanonMan said:

I've worked in places that repaired boards that used both lead-free and leaded solder, so there had to be two identical soldering rework stations to avoid cross contamination. You can imagine the trouble caused when somebody took an old board with lead-free solder to the wrong rework station....

Yeah I can imagine lol

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