Jump to content
BF74

Electro reels service and repair (Ten Up) Bell Fruit

Recommended Posts

I have a couple of sets of reels here I thought it might be good to start a thread with the help of pictures on what's involved in a step by step guide of the strip down,service and rebuild of these mechanical parts.

Some electro owners have their own way to strip and service these reels which is fine with the same results, this way is my own which I find easiest for me.

This first set of reels are out of a Bell Fruit Ten Up.

post-480-0-65243900-1532000729_thumb.jpg

This is a four reel machine but the working parts are the same on a three reel set with only one reel less.

 

A good tip is to take pictures of everything on your own reel deck as you move along so if you do happen to get stuck with many of the parts you will know exactly where they belong..

 

The reels in early electro machines are held secure in position by two clamps at the back, later models had two brackets mounted on either end plate of the reels and secured by two bolts accessed under the reel shelf. once released and the reel loom plugs disconnected the reels will lift out from the machine.

Part 1.

First job is to remove the drive belt along with the two drive cogs on the reel and motor shafts.

the cogs both have two hex bolts each to secure them to the drive shafts and may need a pair of pliers to help crack them loose as they have to be very tight. both these drive cogs are identical so no need to mark which came from where as they can go back on either drive shaft when rebuilding..

post-480-0-69587900-1532001676_thumb.jpg

 

Next the reel motor... Bell Fruit used BA socket sizes for the smaller nuts and bolts on their machines in the 70s so anyone like me with socket drivers the bolt size holding the reel motor is 4BA or approx. 6mm but first remove the two wired spade connections to the motor before removing the four securing bolts, this will allow the heavy reel motor to be removed from the reel deck and place to one side...

post-480-0-19004400-1532002834_thumb.jpg

 

All being well you should have these parts removed.

post-480-0-31910400-1532002968_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great to see ron .many thanks for starting this thread up as its so informative for all concerned in this type of reel deck .

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pt2 reel solenoids.

Remove all the wired spade connectors (two to each solenoid) from each of the four reel solenoids, the main wiring harness is fastened to the end plate (at reel one end) with a small nut and bolt, disconnect from the end plate if it's not already missing.

post-480-0-10654800-1532006034_thumb.jpg

 

With all the solenoid spade connectors removed, uncoil the wiring from around the top reel board spacers so the loom now looks like this..

post-480-0-37097000-1532006301_thumb.jpg

 

Now remove all for reel solenoids from their reel board mounting brackets, each solenoid is secured by two small bolts. Again these bolts are 4BA or 6mm.

post-480-0-98151000-1532006788_thumb.jpg

 

As the solenoid is disconnected the solenoid plunger with link and spring will pop out of the bottom, You can either hold in place by hand or do what I do and wrap an elastic band around the plunger and solenoid to hold it in place. The wire link just needs to be unhooked from the solenoid lift arm.

post-480-0-01578400-1532006842_thumb.jpg

 

The reel solenoid lift arms pivot on a brass bush over a spindle and held in place by a spring clip. if you remove the clip the lift arm will pull away allowing you to remove the complete lift arm. the action is repeated on all four reels.

post-480-0-02254800-1532007314_thumb.jpgpost-480-0-01550200-1532007346_thumb.jpg

 

You now have all these parts..

post-480-0-17508300-1532007450_thumb.jpg 

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pt3 The main reel boards, reel drums and clutch parts.

 

Starting with the end plate with the reel motor removed, there are three threaded rods running right through the reel mech with spacers fitted between each reel board and nuts either end holding the whole assembly together. once these are loosened off the reel mech might become a bit unstable and tend to wobble about a bit and get worse the more the unit is dismantled but this is normal.Unless you are really rough in handling the parts then no damage will be done. :)

 

Remove the three nuts at the motor plate and remove, this exposes reel four and it's clutch assembly.

You can see in the picture how the rod spacers just slide over the rod so just remove the three spacers completely.

post-480-0-80028000-1532008440_thumb.jpg

You should be able to push the three rods back through the boards and stop just before they go through reel board 4.

Now look at reel 4 clutch assembly. In this order there is a spring clip, a small washer, a spring, another small washer, the main large metal clutch washer and finally the leather clutch washer.

post-480-0-70330900-1532008637_thumb.jpg

Remove the spring clip and all the components behind it, leaving now just the reel 4.

post-480-0-86574600-1532008762_thumb.jpg

Now remove reel 4 reel drum, it should easily slide off the reel drive shaft.

post-480-0-67639400-1532008840_thumb.jpg

Push the three rods through reel four board and it will now be loose and left with just the reel drive shaft poking through the middle of the hole, the board and it's wiring loom can now be slid over the reel drive shaft and place flat to the side of the mech.

You are now at reel 3 clutch assembly, this is the same as reel four with one exception, it has an extra small washer in front of the spring clip, this is for reel four to run up against it for a smooth spin without catching on the spring clip itself.

post-480-0-61177500-1532009303_thumb.jpg

Remove the three spacers and push the rods back through to the reel board as with reel 4

Remove the clutch parts the same way as reel 4.

post-480-0-52647700-1532009508_thumb.jpg

Now remove reel 3 the same way as reel 4 from the drive shaft.

Slide off reel board 3 over the drive shaft and place flat next to board 4.

You are now at reel 2 so repeat above but you will find because of the loom restricting movement you will not be able to slide off reel board 2. Don't try to force it or the wiring connections may be damaged.

post-480-0-41145900-1532009920_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

pt4 reels cont..

As reel 2 board cannot be removed you will have to go to the other main end plate and remove it. By now you can withdraw all three rods and spacers left as they will hinder your progress and as there is only reel 1 left to remove along with the two remaining reel boards.

Only a spring clip and washer is holding the end plate to the reel shaft so remove those parts and the plate.

post-480-0-70341000-1532010723_thumb.jpg

 

With the plate removed you will see about an inch along the drive shaft another single clip so remove that too..

after that you can see yet another clip and washer secured up against reel 1 (see in same pic) so remove those parts.

post-480-0-61180200-1532010942_thumb.jpg

 

As the end plate is now removed you can remove reel board 1 from the same side and as this relaxes the wiring will allow you to now remove reel board 2 from the other side just leaving reel 1 and it's clutch assembly on the reel drive shaft.

Remove reel 1 clutch assembly and reel drum from the drive shaft as the others and that's it the mech is now stripped for cleaning and repairs.

Your parts should look something like this.. 

post-480-0-54867400-1532011308_thumb.jpgpost-480-0-58577400-1532011353_thumb.jpgpost-480-0-50683600-1532011392_thumb.jpg

keep the reels in order you have removed or mark them in number, the feature reel is easily identified but the others can be mixed up and if replaced in wrong order then payouts will not work.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great stuff Ron, looks like it takes a while to do! Good read!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Slow but steady stuff .it must be very rewarding to put it all back after cleaning and restoring these parts .

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Down to cleaning all the parts now and starting with the reel boards and reel drums/wipers.

Typical over a period of time they pick up any dirt/grease particles and end up with a thin covering of not just the studs but the wipers on the reel drums too.

This insulates the contacts making possible payout failure due to the lack of contact allowing the circuits to be made through the reels.

When polished up no oil or grease is required. when re assembled the wipers should just lightly glide over the studs as the reel drum turns.

The reel solenoid/reel stop arm mounting plates are locked in situ with two bolts and the setup for the positioning of each reels wipers over the studs when the reel stops so unless you want to have to manually adjust the wiper settings I just leave and clean them still secured to the reel boards..

The red reel drums are just plastic and easily cleaned with a damp cloth but not the reel strips which are paper and very old now so keep any cleaning fluids away from the strips to avoid damaging marks.

You can split the reel stop/wiper board from the reel drum by removing the three screws and the board is loose but first Make sure you picture or mark it's original position as it can fit in any of three positions and in the wrong place will cause many payout problems.

DSCN2981.JPG

DSCN2982.JPG

DSCN2987.JPG

DSCN2983.JPG

DSCN3029.JPG

DSCN3028.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All the metal bright work and solenoids are amongst the components to clean up to make the reels look great when finished.

I find the Autosol the best but you might want to use your own preference of any other cleaning product which is just as good.

Apart from the metal housing,Reel solenoids have a sleeve on the inside which gets very dirty so is on the list of cleaning jobs, the solenoid has small a vent hole in the top so make sure this is kept clear.

The reel solenoid plunger can get rusted and pitted in worse case examples but need to be clean and smooth for maximum operation, no lubrication is needed for this part to help it operate, oils or grease will only inhibit rather than help it operate.

On every workshop service the leather reel clutch washers were replaced with new but as this is not possible in most cases the old clutches have to be put back into the reels.

Old clutch washers will be dry and hard which results in reel slips or slow starting reel spins.

 In Bell Fruit workshops all the new replacement leather washers were left to soak in Neatsfoot oil which is designed especially for leather to keep it supple. Put the washers in the oil as soon as they are removed so this gives them maximum time to absorb the oil while work is carried out on the rest of the mech. I tend to let washers soak for at least overnight in the oil to soften them up again but may take longer for some washers.

The washers don't need to be dripping with oil when refitting them, I soak off the surplus with kitchen towel and just leaving them damp.

 

 

 

clean solenoids.jpg

DSCN2821.JPG

DSCN2819.JPG

DSCN2974.JPG

DSCN2975.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So this obviously takes time to do, roughly how long does it take Ron?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good Question.. In BF workshops we had to complete a full machine service in a day but the machines were either brand new or nearly new and no rust to clean off, any replacement parts were at hand in the stores so any faulty or damaged components were just thrown away. Reel bands with any marks were removed and replaced with new, the old reel clutch washers were removed thrown away and again replaced with new.

Even brand new machines delivered from Nottingham although did not need stripping down still had to have a full workshop test before going out on site. Mainly coin mech acceptance, payouts and making sure everything in the game was working to spec but even the odd new machine arrived faulty but we could still test a few of those in a shift.

Today I work a lot slower and have to take my time so it's done when it gets done😁

With very little new parts I have to make do with what there is and now much of the metal brightwork is rusted and pitted making it more time consuming to clean.

When finished though you can see the difference from when you first started and being able to strip them down to so many components is all part of the experience of owning an electro machine.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really nice to hear and see ron .and interesting to hear about the turn around times back in the day .thanks for a great thread

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Reel motor/Gearbox

This important part is often forgotten but needs a service just as much as the rest of the machine.A good point when buying an electro and have no record of it's past owner doing any work on the machine would be to service these parts as soon as possible as may result in the following gearbox strip down..

Very easy to strip down, remove the four bolts (marked) the two longer bolts hold the back mounting plate with the rear motor bearing. Now the motor along with two spacers will come apart from the gearbox , take note of the way round the coil and it's mounting is fixed to the gearbox, if replaced the other way around the motor will run in reverse.

When all the parts are removed they should look like pic ( 2  )

With the rotor removed it has a large spacer sleeve at the front normally red in colour and smaller white with three washers at the back. ( pic 3 )

The gearbox, held by four bolts and once removed the gearbox housing will split in two parts. Inside the gearbox are just three main gears, One attached to the main drive shaft and two reduction gears. Take note of their positions but not so complicated to refit once cleaned. Although this gearbox looks like it still has good lubrication the old grease has turned to a  jelly and once removed you can see by the lumps that it's well past it's use. Pic (7)

Because of lack of lubrication this gearbox has been running hot and caused some damage to the inner bearings and even allowed the gears to rub the casing. ( arrowed in red on pic 8 & 9).  Although it still runs and a testament to the engineering of these units, this gearbox now has a limited life with the bearing damage but still enough for home use rather than commercial. 

Notice I left the main drive shaft and gear in situ because the main bearing it runs through is made up of small needle rollers which usually fall out when the shaft is withdrawn, this can be a fiddly job to get them back in so if you are not confident then leave this shaft in place. Again the bearing housing for the opposite end of the drive shaft has even smaller needle rollers but usually stay in place when the gearbox is split but still take care when cleaning the old grease from around that bearing that any rollers fall out. ( Arrowed in yellow pic 8 & 9)

Once you have removed all the old grease and cleaned the parts, Place fresh grease in and around all the gear shaft bearings, Replace the gears into their running positions then cover the gears in a good amount of extra fresh grease around the teeth and reassemble the two gearbox sections.

I use high melt value such as wheel bearing grease which seems to do a good job.

Clean the outer gearbox case and all the motor casing parts and reassemble .

Before replacing the back rotor mounting plate and bearing, add a small dab of grease to the bearing or onto the end of the rotor shaft..

DSCN2994.JPG

DSCN2998.JPG

DSCN3000.JPG

DSCN3004.JPG

DSCN3007.JPG

DSCN3008.JPG

DSCN3019.JPG

DSCN3023.JPG

DSCN3025.JPG

motor gearbox cleaned.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, BF74 said:

Good Question.. In BF workshops we had to complete a full machine service in a day but the machines were either brand new or nearly new and no rust to clean off, any replacement parts were at hand in the stores so any faulty or damaged components were just thrown away. Reel bands with any marks were removed and replaced with new, the old reel clutch washers were removed thrown away and again replaced with new.

Even brand new machines delivered from Nottingham although did not need stripping down still had to have a full workshop test before going out on site. Mainly coin mech acceptance, payouts and making sure everything in the game was working to spec but even the odd new machine arrived faulty but we could still test a few of those in a shift.

Today I work a lot slower and have to take my time so it's done when it gets done😁

With very little new parts I have to make do with what there is and now much of the metal brightwork is rusted and pitted making it more time consuming to clean.

When finished though you can see the difference from when you first started and being able to strip them down to so many components is all part of the experience of owning an electro machine.

Thanks for the insight Ron, what a great job it must have been! It’s great to hear from somebody who was part of it.

keep it going.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice clear easy to understand description of the gearbox service and the pics certainly help. Thanks again ron .

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great thread ron,done a few of them reel motors and the old grease sets like concrete,especially if not used for a while.My warlord was like that,reels would hardley turn.As for the sweeping arms and studs on reel boards i always wipe with wd40,that cleans them and reduces friction when turning.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Everything now cleaned and ready to reassemble the reel mech.

Without dragging the thread on too long, Basically this is done exactly in the reverse of the above, The spacers (3 between each reel board and end plates) consist of three largest are for the motor end plate and reel board 4, Nine which go between the three reel boards and three small between the opposite end plate and reel board . 

No other parts to add or remove will see the mech rebuilt as it should look.

DSCN3032.JPG

DSCN3034.JPG

DSCN3035.JPG

DSCN3153.JPG

DSCN3152.JPG

DSCN3148.JPG

DSCN3036.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Absolutley fantastic work ron .a delight to see .did you ever think you would still be stripping /servicing electro reeldecks 40 yrs later ! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×