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JPM MPS2 dead


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#61 Brainscan

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Posted 07 November 2017 - 08:28 pm

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#62 Louie Bee

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Posted 07 November 2017 - 09:44 pm

ground is... The bottom of the TVS diode, Pin 10 on IC30 or any of the LS541, the second to last column on the PSU plug so many to pic from

 

Will run without C59, just lift 1 leg off the MPU

 

 

Get yourself the manual

https://www.fruitemu...s2-tech-manual/

 

there is a page which will help you find every cap on each voltage line:-

 

 

Attached File  2017-11-07 21_29_36-Page24.jpg - Windows Photo Viewer.jpg   29.83KB   0 downloads

 

Also check your PMs :)

 

Edit. on the 5V line the TVS diodes are the prime suspect for short circuit, if not go round lifting a leg off each big tant, it's usualley the last one you try ;)

 

 

but I don't think a short on the 5V line will take out a PSU fues


Edited by Louie Bee, 07 November 2017 - 09:50 pm.


#63 Brainscan

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 02:14 pm

I have checked the two tv diodes, and they are fine. I will replace them because they are very old.

What do you mean with “the big tant”?

#64 Wizard

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 02:22 pm

What do you mean with “the big tant”?

 

The big tantalum capacitors, the brown bulb shaped ones.


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#65 Louie Bee

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 11:31 pm

Do you have a short circuit between ground and wither of the 3

 

I have checked the two tv diodes, and they are fine. I will replace them because they are very old.

What do you mean with “the big tant”?

 

 

Replacing TVS diodes will do no harm, but won't get you closer to running just yet if they are not already faulty...

 

They are probabley as old as all the other components on the circuit board, so it's hard to use age alone as a reason to replace. The fact they are prone to failure is a good reason to replace

 

After removing C59 do you still have any short circuits between ground and these test points?

 

Attached File  MPS2 test points.jpg   128.13KB   0 downloads

 



#66 Brainscan

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 06:30 pm

After removing c59, the short on tp4 is gone.

But I still have a short between ground and tp5?

#67 Louie Bee

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 06:46 pm

After removing c59, the short on tp4 is gone.

But I still have a short between ground and tp5?

 

I just checked a couple of boards here and they are short between TP5 and ground... looks like TP5 is ground. I never reilised that, but I don't really use them.



#68 Brainscan

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 02:00 pm

Ok, then there is no problem there.

I will wait for the part to arive.

Keep you posted.



#69 Brainscan

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 03:02 pm

Finally the pars have arrived and i had time to work on the machine again.

I fitted al the parts and mounted the board and the PSU back in the cabinet again.

I powered the machine up, and...

Its working great.

I will make a video of it soon.

Thank you for all the help everyone 

I have been playing with it for a few hours, and its a nice, fun machine.

The only thing thats boring me, is that the spinning rolls make a lot of sound, and that the payout button is lit which white light.

I can change the bulb on the light, thats no problem, but how can i make the humming sound of the spinning rolls go silent?



#70 quattrohead

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 03:07 pm

MPS machines are particularly noisy at driving the reels, not much you can do about it. Also all arcade machines produce a lot of noise through the speakers, they are not HiFi quality !!!


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#71 Louie Bee

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 08:54 pm

Good stuff well done :)



#72 Brainscan

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 12:33 am

So the reel drive sound is not resolveble?



#73 MAGIK

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 12:40 am

You need to fit a different type of reel motor to quieten them down. TTX done this to a test pilot some years back but I don't recall what motors he used.. theres a thread around here somewhere.


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#74 TTX

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 01:47 am

ALL MPS machines inherently have noisy reels as the motors used are 200 steps. Most other techs use 48 steps or similar.

 

If the reel band is a loose fit on the drum then this will make the noise worse. I fold strips of paper and wedge them between the band and the drum to remove the slack.

 

 

You need to fit a different type of reel motor to quieten them down. TTX done this to a test pilot some years back but I don't recall what motors he used.. theres a thread around here somewhere.

 

https://www.fruitemu...air/#entry33876


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#75 Brainscan

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 05:20 pm

That’s maybe something for the future.

I have another question:

When there are point on the display and I turn off the machine for a longer period, the points will disappear.
How can I fix this issue?

Edited by Brainscan, 03 January 2018 - 08:48 am.


#76 Louie Bee

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 07:50 pm

That’s many something for the future.

I have another question:

When there are point on the display and I turn off the machine for a longer period, the points will disappear.
How can I fix this issue?

Sounds like the battery may be draining too fast.

 

If the battery charge drains away, the voltage on the volitile ram falls and the memory is lost. the machine data is lost... any credits left on the machine, anything in the bank / melon meters / % settings (If you can set the & in test mode on your game) are lost along with the book keeping for the black box (If anyone still has one).

 

This is a problem I've seen many times.

 

measure the battery current with the machine off.

 

I like to see 0.002mA max, but takes a few mods to get it down :D

 

Edit these mods... taking note of IC35 being off the board already if your removing R132 & R133 https://www.fruitemu...fault/?p=309575


Edited by Louie Bee, 02 January 2018 - 07:56 pm.


#77 Brainscan

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 08:53 am

I will measure the current when I can.
What is the normal current?
What’s a normal backup time for this machine? (How long can it save the point and everything?)

#78 Louie Bee

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 11:03 pm

I seem to remember 0.02mA being good before mods, but I don't bother measuring before mods any more because the strnsistors / R25 thing just seem to fail one after the other on the forst MPU I sussed the battery current on, now I just replace to avoid future problems.

 

The standard battery is 80mAh at 3.6V, so you can work out a theoretical maximum backup bu deviding the current by the mAh... 80/0.02 = 4000 hours, 166 days

 

Wow at my target curent of 0.001mA it looks like there is no theoretical point charging the battery as it would probabley leak before it drained 80,000 hours / 3333 days (10 years),

 

But that's assuming zero leakage and the battery holds the full mAh and can hold that current at full voltage... but it's not reality.


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#79 Brainscan

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 08:08 am

The current is way to high, it last only one day before the battery goes flat.

Do you have a detailed description how to lower the battery drain?

#80 Louie Bee

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 10:57 am

https://www.fruitemu...e-2#entry309575






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