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MAGIK

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MAGIK last won the day on November 14 2017

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About MAGIK

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    back from the internet dead!
  • Birthday 07/08/1978

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    pedster2008@live.com

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    Holytown, North Lanarkshire
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    Anything alternate, retro, against the grain, Im not a go with the status quo guy!

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  1. Its come a wee bit further on now- some kind folks have passed on ideas, A good mate provided better reels and I have been working away at improving the program . Not perfect by any means but to give you an idea of how much I have put into this , this version in the video is 0.7 , I am now upto 0.91 - theres nine and a bit previous updates to the first program lol. Im using a pentium 4 laptop to power it atm as I have a parallel port on it that I can make use of for driving lamps and a hopper (or ticket machine , theres an idea) The reel optics are working well, that was one big problem I had all the way through the project up until tonight, The tabs were being missed on first spin after power up because of the way windows computers work , outputs etc tend to stutter a wee bit and hesitate as drivers and apps load in , and it screws with the reel drive . The solution was to slow the first spin of the reels down a bit and now they stop every time on the tab . So with that improved, instead of running SRU style by just setting up once and then keeping track of counters, the optics are detected on every single spin. Also got nudges ,and some nice sounds .... This version has a glitch with the nudges where if you get a win on 4 nudges it awards sod all. Thats been fixed now. It was down to the way I was looking at the winline, I was doing it before the nudge and not before so the program was exiting the nudge routine after 4 nudges before checking for the win. Also theres a mistake in the winplan which I need to fix you will notice that a winline in the game was not awarded. I have the number of the fruit wrong for that position on reel 1. No matter, easy fix. SO next steps - 1) Get the alpha display driiver running faster, and with a bellfruit BD4 display : I love the bellfruit displays and the only thing stopping me using one on this , is the way the KN8055 board works. I cant pull the reset line up high enough to 5v to cause a reset. But I can fix that by moving the alpha display driver inside the motor driver , and using the 4th reel output to drive the reset. Got a fully working driver routine that uses all of the displays features already programmed for it. 2) Get the reels and a button panel lit: I have an electrocoin button panel, and a electrocoin lamp extender PCB. Easy to add a ribbon cable down to parallel port from that PCB so that I can address the lamp outputs. So it should be simple enough to get some lights on the go. It would be nice to play some games on this with the reels lit up and flashing away..... 3) Coin handling : I have a C435, SR5i and a cashflow mech to fiddle with. I need to figure out how to wire it up to the parallel port input lines. Shouldnt be too hard, but then I have to program a routine to accept the signals coming from the mech. No , I am not gonna use CCTALK !! Also I need to think about some sort of coin hopper or ticket dispenser. I have a 12v hopper stored away, And There was talk of someone sourcing me an old dispenser. SO to be continued !! Probably by the time you have read this the project will have already made more progress.
  2. Just found this in the SR5i service manual - thats a biiiig plus for me, I can have any coin common voltage I like!! It wont work with a keyboard driver I dont think because that would mean the coin common line was going on and off , I think that would cause issues. However, we do have the printer port laying empty if I use this shutl PC - the coin control could go through the inputs on that.... I never knew that about these mechs ! Mind you I only found out a few weeks ago that a coin acceptor as well as a note acceptor can have a key based on its serial number - some of those betcom machines dont boot unless you have both keys stored in the machine memory! So based on the manual, I think my best course of action is going to be having a 0v coin common . BUT , with a little bit of jiggery, mabye I could use a keyboard interface - would involve using gates of some sort so that the coin common isn't actually directly connected to the keyboard matrix- there will be a way!
  3. Has taken a long time to come this far !! This basic idea came about in 2007 when I came across an IC called a UCN5818AF. Its mentioned in robert penfolds PC INTERFACING PROJECTS book from the 90s. At the time I was using a Parallel port of a 486 laptop to control a set of MPU4 blackjack reels. It worked , sort of , but I was utilizing ULN2003s which were under rated for the current load of the motors and they heated up over time- eventually my poor breadboard melted !! Then I tried again with MPS reels , 24v power and a cheater circuit someone posted online to drive a 4 coil motor using only 2 inputs and a bunch of resistors and diodes to control the coils. Um it didnt work, I blew up the circuit, and the parallel port on the laptop. And then I moved house , and I think the breadboard , and the bits on it got thrown out. And then I had a kid so less time for experimenting anyway..... But wind the clock forward 11 years and now I have a little more time and a lot more know how and tools and test gear.. So I can experiment a bit more. I have a system80 machine tucked away which I can make use of for testing some stuff , but I also have this wonderful thing called dark basic , and PIC and AVR programmers so can DO a lot more with my programming and electronics skill. Thats all well and good but I was still intending to use the printer port .. And then I bought a velleman USB kit. And that sort of changed the game plan - it totally moved the goal posts because they provide a manual with the driver DLL and it was relatively easy to write a program to use the software in the DLL. Before you know it I had an updated version of my alpha display driver, here it is below -- Not very interesting by itself I know - its just an alpha display - I did a version for the Bellfruit BD4 display driver as well, but Im not cluttering the post up. But it got me thinking - It took mabye 4 hours to work out how to control the display using the velleman kit. (Theres other kits out there btw , but I like the velleman because its still using thru hole stuff. ) So , thinks me, what else can I drive using this little board. It only takes 3 wires to control the alpha display . Well 4, you need to provide a reference ground so that the unit under control is sharing the same supply ground as the unit providing the control - if you don't things go a little weird. Now, when I thought about it, It only took 3 lines on the parallel port to control that UCN5818 , and it provides 32 output lines from a single serial in. An idea was brewing! A sticking point back in 2007 was that I had no way to read the opto sensors. So I had to zero out the reels by hand before I ran the program . Not very good for a fully packaged machine lol. But now, with this USB board I had a set of protected inputs as well as 8 output channels. I just had to find a set of reels with 5v opto boards built in.. I had a set of BIG7 reels laying about , they had 5v opto boards , but those were 24v stepper motors. And I was NOT gonna even try and use 24v motors again with my ideas. A good friend tho provided a set of maygay motors , which are 12v but designed for the same starpoint reel assembly - the project was on! Just one note, if you ever do this for yourself the maygay motors have a pinout which is the exact reverse of the electrocoin ones. So you have to plug the motors in upside down on the plugs on the top of the opto board. I will show you at some point. It turned out opto detection with the USB board was actually pretty easy - just provide the optos 5v and ground, connect the USB board with the same ground line (for the reference ground ) and then the opto outputs give a LO signal every time a tab blocks the sensor and the on board LED comes on. To actually drive the motors, I had to work out a program to use the 5818 to drive the reels. What I came up with was actually something very similar to my 2007 design. Except done on stripboard , and with ULN2083As which can handle the current. I used heavy wire across the top of the stripboard to divert 5,12v and 0v to where I needed them and kynar wire to direct the outputs of the 5818 to 4 inputs each of the driver ICs. I actually doubled up each driver input to spread the current load further- and it , so far as I can see , works a treat! Biggest headache was getting the reels to stop where I wanted them to.... Detecting a tab is easy, but writing the program so it stops exactly on the tab and then moves a precise number of steps is hard ! But what Ive done works. It kinda uses the same principle as SRU - it adds to 3 counters and then counts round the same number of steps on each reel till they are in the right position. Sound is provided by samples in .wav or mp3 format. As you can see from the video it looks reasonable in operation. Its not playable yet , but I am still working on the program to break up just the straight demo routine and split it into attract , gameplay , gamble and nudge subroutines. Thats for another time tho, My head still hurts from sorting out how to set the reels to zero at power up and then run to position afterward!! So at the minute, I am not gonna do any more with the basic program - I am going to port it out to a shuttle PC I have, as DB makes an application when you compile the program . So long as I include any DLLs and sound files it needs in the same folder when I move it over I should be fine. There is an ATOM motherboard on ebay atm for just a few pounds so I could use that also , with a compact flash card - I have a cf to IDE board sitting in a cupboard and theres a 8GB card floating about too- so theres options out there ! What I am going to do next is focus on coin control - Im not even going to try with serial or cctalk - thats out my depth - But, I am going to use a cashflow or SR5 in parallel mode . The thing about these mechs is they work are just coin operated switches - you have a coin common line , which is one side of the switch , and then a set of coin output lines - when a coin passes through internal transistors simply connect the coin common to a coin output. Now typically coin common sits at 12v - it makes it easier to wire the loom . But in electrocoin machines they have that common line tied to ground - and the outputs pull the switch lines on the MPU to ground instead of passing 12v down to the MPU via zeners to result in a 5v input signal. So I got to thinking , what if I connect coin common to one side of a keyboard line , and a coin output to the other??? I have a coin mech upstairs thats got a bad seperator but it does accept coins . It got killed when someone updated it to new £1s , as you do! So I am gonna play with that for a bit , and see what I can come up with. So thats it atm- Its actually a bit of a red neck updating this thread after soooooooo many years ! But I never ever gave up on the project , its just life gets in the way, and so it should - life and family always come first , only when you can JUSTIFY taking time for yourself do these things progress. To be continued , even if it does take another 11 years!! Hey it took Guns and Roses 12 years for their current album lol.
  4. Just dropping this here for the min, will update properly soon...
  5. Hello boys and girls, I got something Im working on here, wonder if anyone had a copy of the Astra party slots sounds? I have a hard drive upstairs with the full astra OS onboard, but nothing to plug it into atm so I know the lads around here have worked on em before. Got a video or 6 to show off tonight but if I can get some sounds on the go , then it should be a lot better!
  6. MAGIK

    MPU2 test rig

    Could be the door switch needs to be made and the test switch needs to be in break?
  7. MAGIK

    MPU2 test rig

    might have already thought about it , but is there a way to reverse the switches in the emulator as MPU2 uses push to break not push to make. It caught me out no end at first when I was working on a triple chance waaaaaaaaay back in 09. I see up above there you already know they are push to break. I checked the emulator and you can invert the switches. So that would mean that the coin inputs need to be stuck on because breaking them triggers an interrupt Also hold and start buttons and coin sensor microswitches all need to be inverted to be on when not active also. I cant mind if mpu2 actually has a test mode as such. I think theres a toggle switch in the cabinet , I could be wrong!.
  8. MAGIK

    Bell Fruit Lord of the Rings issue

    On the subject of PSUs, the step power supplys (older type with mesh tops) have the 12v outputs on the end pins and the newer type brick units have the 12v lines nearer the middle. You just carefully pop the crimps for the 12v leads out of the housing and move them over to the correct pins. Most power supplys have a pin diagram on a label over the connectors.
  9. MAGIK

    Bell Fruit Lord of the Rings issue

    Agree with others - theres no 5v coming into that board, no reset LED. Could be just a loose pin on the power supply plug , check the two plugs on the power supply and make sure the yellow lead hasn't popped out of the molex housing. You can check between 5v pin and 0v at the power supply using a multimeter also. what I would do is unplug the power supply from the board and check the voltage on the plug from the yellow to any black (+5v to 0v). If you have 5v coming from the power supply but you don't have it with the power supply plugged into the board then something on the board on the 5v line is shorting out. On the subject of the battery there is corrosion yes , but I have seen running boards looking worse. Before we condemn the board, we need to get the 5v LED on , and that reset LED flashing.
  10. MAGIK

    Tales from Midibob's workshop. MPU3

    That makes sense its the chip select driver for all the PIAs . There is a very small delay between the address lines of a 74ls138 being converted to one of the outputs going low and the propogation delay of the IC can easily go askew if it was developing an internal fault. So the PIA might get /not get its active low chip select when its meant to, or the length of the pulse could stretch or shorten, or the peak voltage of the pulse could be altered. Also as most logic circuits used in address decoding or multiplexing tend to have active low outputs you can get an issue where the output tends not to go low enough towards logic 0 and sometimes that can cause the timing not to work at all, or it can cause some really unexpected behaviour in what ever the decoder circuit is driving. There are several different address locations assigned to one PIA and the chip select might well have been arriving late or early causing a port to get the wrong data. You probably wouldn't see it on a scope unless you had a very fast storage one, a logic probe would be no help, but a logic analyzer would pinpoint the problem. Ive had that before with maygays where everything looks fine on a logic probe etc but when you attach a fast oscilloscope or logic analyzer you can see the timings a little off. And in logic circuits if signals dont arrive at the right time or order it aint gonna work. I found that out big time last month when I wrote a USB driver for an alpha display! Unless you get the pulse rise /fall exactly right and the pulse length spot on , total gibberish!
  11. MAGIK

    Free Bee mpu4 machine

    Was it the fuseholder then?
  12. MAGIK

    Free Bee mpu4 machine

    there is a dipswitch setting but I cant remember what is. On the subject of lamps, have you checked to see if your 34v fuse in the power supply is there and ok and that the fuseholder is ok and its connections arent burnt?
  13. MAGIK

    New addition exchanges galore

    Getting harder to find these things now what with the prices and ebay cancelling everything ! Nice example, looks in very nice condition.
  14. MAGIK

    MPU2 test rig

    RS still sell round connectors, I wonder if any of them would come close to being a match - Might not have the locating tag etc but if they could seat in the sockets you might be able to make use of them.
  15. MAGIK

    Super Line Up

    nice easy way to match the impedance. Done that a few times myself. Its not perfect but it does the job. If you don't , like andrew says the drive transistor T11 will burn up through overheating because its got too much of a load. Youll end up with distorted , crackly sound and eventually no sound at all....
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