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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/09/19 in all areas

  1. Also forget to mention if anyone needs any fruit rubber drop me a message as have loads left spare
    3 points
  2. Massive thanks to Louie and Peter for all your help Nudge Double Up is running New roms , New CPU, New digit display and is playing a blinder at 10p a go £2 all cash jackpot 😄
    2 points
  3. Hey, I’m the proud owner of a 95 JPM Monopoly 60th Anniversary I acquired following years playing it in arcades along with Roller Coaster, Casino Crazy and Indiana Jones. I have owned it for 10+ years but has been out of regular action since I got married 6 years ago. Unfortunately it got relegated to the garage. I’m looking for some assistance to get it back working as it has developed a fault :( It’s driving me crazy now I have a space to use it that it’s poorly!
    1 point
  4. Quick Update Video showing the old girl in action with new 10p Roms installed :-) Only headache now is a replacement reel glass to reflect the increase in payouts (give us a shout if you have one or willing to sell one) Cheers Stef
    1 point
  5. That's the status LED that flashes normally mate. Sounds like he's got a really early motherboard with the reset LED fitted too so equally could be that lit. Did it get to the Alarm (ram clear) the first time you tried it? Listen out for a speaker click/noise when you first plug it in too... might not seem important but a duff sound card can stop impact booting too. Much more likely to be the Cpu card, motherboard, then Eproms IMA
    1 point
  6. I can test them for you if needed, and have got spare motherboards
    1 point
  7. Hi there. The battery is just there as a supply for the memory during power down. It won't stop it booting up. It does look amazingly clean but could still be a fault with the voltage regulator. Or other faults elsewhere. Firstly have a look at the leds on the psu... are they all lit? Does your motherboard have 2 leds... one for status one for reset? I am busssssy but if no one else offers I can test your Cpu card/and your Eproms if no one else offers. I'm low on motherboards atm.... so can't supply one if it's that.
    1 point
  8. Quick update fellas I now have NDU running 10p a go plus £2 jackpot 😉 All i need now is the bottom reel glass showing double the values 😄 Cheers Stef
    1 point
  9. Really nice job, well done on sorting out that cab - done similar a few years ago on a cab when I had machines, bottom was all shot and had to rebuild the bottom from scratch.
    1 point
  10. I should have said I have replaced all 16 lamp drives as I was getting inconsistent readings from several of them.I had also replaced IC14, the ULN2803 as that chip was driving the drives that were having the most issues. I have since noticed that they do turn off at reset but come back on in a second. Looking at all 32 lamps that are stuck on now, they are all driven from the green connector. Green 1, T37, IC14 pin 11, IC3 Port A7 Green 2 T36, IC14 pin 12, IC3 Port A6 Green 13, T26, IC13 pin 14, IC3 Port B5 Green 15, T24, IC13 pin 16, IC3 Port B3 So I am thinking when the PIA is reset and then told to switch the ports to outputs is when the faulty drive is set and the lamps driven full on. So I am going to replace IC3, the 6821 next.
    1 point
  11. with any stuck lamps first thing to check is the transistors
    1 point
  12. Nice one rich glad you have them back .should last a good while now
    1 point
  13. I'm still working slowly on mine Bob. Quick question, if the stuck lamps turn off at reset then turn on again, does it mean the outputs from the 6821 (IC3) are knackered but are forced off during reset ?
    1 point
  14. This one will be all up and working next week 😊 10p per play tho,, £3 jp
    1 point
  15. OK new cheap arse temp controlled iron from Amazon and some time on my hands today. I replaced all the rot components and used 2N3704 to replace the BC338 making sure to adjust for the different pin out. Payouts seem fine again. However, the lamp problem has progressed to all lamp driver transistors randomly failing !!!! I suspected T35 was shorted but noticed odd readings on a couple other drivers, indeed T37 looked like it was melting off the tab, so T32/35/37 were replaced. Another resistance check now showed another driver that did not seem right, but I wanted to test what I had done so far. Well, it did not blow up lol and booted up fine. However, now have another stuck lamp drive. So I am going to replace them all. What has everyone else been using ? Schematic suggests BDW46 were used but I have BDX34B in my board. Also the volume pot has decided to crap out, fucker.
    1 point
  16. So checking the lamp drive issue, I determined it was T35 that had shorted, but I compared to others in the group and was getting all kinds of odd readings that drifted around. Went back to the ULN2803 and found odd readings on the outputs, and saw a SIL on the output pins that I did not remember from the schematic.
    1 point
  17. Yes I have found this, removing the battery does not stop the rot, it’s like a vinegar wash, once you do it the vinegar acid gets in and under everything just slowly corroding especially copper away! Battery alkaline is much slower once battery is off but it does happen! Well I have seen it for sure!
    1 point
  18. CRAP, fired up Stop The Clock after re-attaching the base and she has developed a stuck lamp column does the solenoid clatter on power up. Opened her up and I am ashamed to say it has the battery rot....even though I had removed the battery many years ago. It looked okish at the time and still held the memory. Looks like I'm going to be replacing T12 & 13 left to C12 area
    1 point
  19. ok bob keep us posted on it another project to come
    1 point
  20. here is one im doing at the moment if you look where the ics where the rot had gone under them this is what you at to look for
    1 point
  21. some say wash with vinegar and some say dont the other board with the 50p fault has that got any green fuzz on it
    1 point
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